Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Spec 3+ issues

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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Default Spec 3+ issues

Just put a spec 3+ in my car about 250 miles ago. new oem flywheel, slave, and master. Spec shim is installed. Everything is bled, manually and with a mightyvac. The car does not want to go into any gear smoothly. The shifter hits a "dead spot" before it goes into gear. A slight force is needed to make it go in, there is no grinding or popping out of gear. all fluids in the car/systemare new. Any ideas on the cause?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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To start with, the Spec 3+ disc is abit heavier than most disc due to its full faced metalic surfaces. With the added weight of the 3+ disc, it makes the blocker rings have to work harder giving you that "dead spot" you described.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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I had the same issue , I was told It was because of the heavy disk which makes sence.

If your realy not making crazy power try the stage 1
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Or a different brand. You know..... just saying!
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by maxspeed05V
I had the same issue , I was told It was because of the heavy disk which makes sence.

If your realy not making crazy power try the stage 1
Seriously? - the guy just put in a new clutch and you want him to change it out for a stage 1 - is his car stock?
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Red99TA
Seriously? - the guy just put in a new clutch and you want him to change it out for a stage 1 - is his car stock?
yes, seriously. If you search back I had the same issue (thread had alot of pages ). Ended up going with a diffrent brand to solve my issue.

But after keeping an eye on spec threads other guys have solved the issue by going with a lighter disk.

G/luck o.p.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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Defective slave.. my clutch did that it would catch to low where i would grind every shift.. Put another new slave in now its way better...Well thats what i think..
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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I don't think it's because the clutch disk is too heavy. I have a spec 3+ also and I have no problems what so ever.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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so will this dead spot smooth out at all once the clutch is broken in more? Does it hurt anything in the tranny driving it the way it is? the car has full bolt ons, went with the 3+ to prepare for the future goodies next winter, and really, switch it all out for a stage 1? come on now.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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Should be ok... Yeah its alot of clutch but you shouldnt mess up a spec 3+ .. I would see if it breaks in..
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Get a Mcleod or Tick adjustable MC they allow more fluid than stock.I have a Mcleod with my Spec 3+ and its smooth.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 04:07 PM
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The stage 3+ disc is heavier than stock but there are thousands of folks using this disc without issue...so saying it is "too heavy" is not true. Synchro and blocker wear can affect the way the car shifts as can proper hydraulic function. Where does the clutch engage relative to pedal travel? Let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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The spec is the best clutch i think you can go with as far as brand and price. Was the spec new or used first off? I put it in my car and it never gave me problems but you can feel the car wanting to go as soon as your foot lets go..I like it..lol
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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the clutch is brand new, everything in the system is new, and bled out over and over, with a mighty vac (which worked awesome) because I initially thought that air was the problem. The shim is installed behind the slave, the master is new. the flywheel is new. the car shifted perfectly before, the reason for installing the new clutch kit was because i was having the "sticky pedal". I was planning on a new clutch down the road anyway so I figured I would just do it all now at the same time. The clutch engages right in the middle, the pedal feels good. The car wants to take off right away, i can tell it will be a great clutch. When i go to shift in any gear at pretty much any rpm it just hits this dead spot, like a thud then you almost have to pull it into gear. I now have probably 375-400 miles on the setup and it still feels the same. I just dont want to screw anything up driving it the way it is cause it feel like it would be hurting the syncros. I dont want to take the car back apart but if its what i need to do It's gonna have to happen. I had the spec 3 in my old car and loved it, so I know once this is squared away, it will be great.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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Flywheel probly needs to be re-surface even if new or Whoever instaled it
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 06:39 PM
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My spec 3+ was doing this and at around 3k miles on the clutch I went to the track and made one pass on the engine and then did a 100 shot pass...the disc welded itself to the flywheel. After getting the car to the pits and onto a trailer I now need first gear synchro/blocker ring repaired in my trans from putting it into gear with a stuck on clutch to get it home. Spec said that I installed the disc wrong or bent the disc when installing the clutch.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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for the money I have wrapped up in this setup, still not being right, I should have just gotten a monster clutch, heard many good things about them
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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well nobody else asked this so here goes. You said that the spec shim is installed, but was it needed??? Did you do the 2 measurements that Joey from Tick put in the thread about does your clutch system need a shim?? Just trying to notch another potential issue off.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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The shim is needed, I had a shop install the clutch(the first time) they did not put the shim in, The engagement was on the floor and could hardly get it into gear at all. I took it back the next day and told them the shim needed to be in, so they installed it the next week, felt better, then found out they had surfaced too much off of the flywheel, So after giving them some sh*t, I decided to jack it up in my garage, tear it all apart, replace the flywheel, redo everything myself and now it is still not right. It feels almost that it could use MORE shim, like the clutch is not disengaging fully to allow the smooth shift, which i find very hard to believe from what spec tells me. I thought I was saving myself the time and a headache having a shop install it for me, but as it ends up I think I created a bigger one for myself and spent way more money than I needed to for absolutely nothing. Thanks for the replies, I appreciate the advice and ideas on what could be wrong, keep them coming
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:15 PM
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If the slave or master were weak, yes I know they are new, it could cause this. of course, if you took measurements relative to the need for the need for the shim you should have been able to determine the need for or lack there of for the shim. Did you take any measurements? If so, what were they? Also, if you want to try a thicker shim let me know and I will be happy to have one cut for you. You can call me at any time. Thanks,
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