Where to get a t56 tailshaft bushing???
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ottawa, IL
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did a search and only come up with Rockland Gear. Does anyone know if I can get a tailshaft bushing at Napa or Autozone and possibly a part number?
#3
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ottawa, IL
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm not sure if we're talking about the same part? I'm talking about the seal at the end of the tailshaft. I was my understanding that the seal is just a dust cover and there is a bushing behind it that actually holds the fluid in. I've read a few threads where people have just removed the tailshaft, popped the bushing/seal out, and pressed a new bushing/seal in.
#6
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ottawa, IL
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Also does anyone have any tips on removing the tailhousing? I've got everything un bolted including the 2 hidden bolts on top and the housing won't budge. I can see that the builder used some type of rtv when installing it but its so tight that I can't even find a place to pry.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
![Post](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, where can I buy this from?
Also does anyone have any tips on removing the tailhousing? I've got everything un bolted including the 2 hidden bolts on top and the housing won't budge. I can see that the builder used some type of rtv when installing it but its so tight that I can't even find a place to pry.
Also does anyone have any tips on removing the tailhousing? I've got everything un bolted including the 2 hidden bolts on top and the housing won't budge. I can see that the builder used some type of rtv when installing it but its so tight that I can't even find a place to pry.
The roll pin in the offset shifter and the bolts...
There is a spot where you can pry the tailhousing away from the main case. Below the 2nd bolt from the bottom on the passenger side.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: around
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
im not suggesting not to remove your tailshaft. But I placed mine with one from napa crushed the old one pulled it out. Froze the new one and tapped it in. I never removed the tailshaft.
#9
FormerVendor
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've always purchased the parts individually from my local Tremec dealer.
#10
Banned
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Adkins - Tx
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its a TH350 bushing and seal. I've ran into issues where the housing bore is too tight for that bushing. You either have to remove some material from the housing or the outside of the bushing itself.
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The SSR bushing and SSR tailhousing (with installed bushing), both new from GM were both a few thousands's different. The separate bushing wouldn't even slip over the yoke as it shipped, but fits in the tailhousing and a quick hone brings it right into spec. You can tell that GM honed the bushing in the tailhousing before shipping also, as it's not as thick as the separate piece..
My $0.02
#12
Teching In
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think that's common to alot of bushings, some even come with instructions to do a final hone on them for clearance.
The SSR bushing and SSR tailhousing (with installed bushing), both new from GM were both a few thousands's different. The separate bushing wouldn't even slip over the yoke as it shipped, but fits in the tailhousing and a quick hone brings it right into spec. You can tell that GM honed the bushing in the tailhousing before shipping also, as it's not as thick as the separate piece..
My $0.02
The SSR bushing and SSR tailhousing (with installed bushing), both new from GM were both a few thousands's different. The separate bushing wouldn't even slip over the yoke as it shipped, but fits in the tailhousing and a quick hone brings it right into spec. You can tell that GM honed the bushing in the tailhousing before shipping also, as it's not as thick as the separate piece..
My $0.02
Still seeing mixed reviews on the Rockland bushing so I'm hesitant there, especially at over $30. The Timken 5200 seems to be a much safer and cost effective ($9 bushing & seal) option, no?
What are you using to hone the bushing once installed? I'm assuming it best to go to a machine shop so an equal amount is removed from entire bushing?