Easy question for you t56 guys
#1
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From: Phoenix/Tempe, AZ
Easy question for you t56 guys
Im in the middle of pulling my pile apart for my new build, and im having a hell of a time getting the clutch cable out. Theres a plastic fitting thats totally fuckered up, which as far as I understand it, needs to be pushed into the brass fitting it sits around, at which time I can pull out the braided line from the trans. My problem is, when pushing in the plastic ring (which again is cracked and misshapen from, well, probably this) it doesnt loosen anything (i was thinking itd be like fuel lines, push it in, pop it off).
I can provide pics if itll help, but what am i doing wrong?
I also apologize if this is overly rudimentary, but its my first time dealing with these up close (when i got the trans i had my mechanic do it, cause i was smart back then)
Thanks guys
I can provide pics if itll help, but what am i doing wrong?
I also apologize if this is overly rudimentary, but its my first time dealing with these up close (when i got the trans i had my mechanic do it, cause i was smart back then)
Thanks guys
#2
You may need to find/borrow a fuel/AC quick disconnect tool
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-OTC6...874166&sr=1-38
The quick connect has metal fingers that the plastic ring should push out and allow the hyd line to pull out..
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-OTC6...874166&sr=1-38
The quick connect has metal fingers that the plastic ring should push out and allow the hyd line to pull out..
#4
As long as they can slip over the plastic piece, it should work just fine. I got mine off by just pressing it in with a screwdriver on one side, then using my other hand to push on the other side and simultaneously pull out the braided line. It sounds like it will be a bit more difficult since yours is broken though.
You could always pull the trans out enough to where you could get the slave off of the transmission (two 10mm bolts) then have more leverage on the connector and more room to work with.
You could always pull the trans out enough to where you could get the slave off of the transmission (two 10mm bolts) then have more leverage on the connector and more room to work with.
#5
And a new slave (or even use of the fitting portion on your old slave) like this would prevent the problem in the future.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ket-slave.html
#7
Yep.
And a new slave (or even use of the fitting portion on your old slave) like this would prevent the problem in the future.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ket-slave.html
And a new slave (or even use of the fitting portion on your old slave) like this would prevent the problem in the future.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ket-slave.html
To the OP, I have one of these style slave cylinders brand new, never used with TO bearing and TICK speedbleeder if you want it. My monster 3 clutch I purchased from a member here came with a GM slave, TO bearing and speedbleeder, so I no longer need it. PM me if interested.