Just installed a Tick master...
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 843
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From: Roseville, Ca.
Just installed a Tick master... First drive suggests that all of the problems I've had shifting this car since I bought it new in February of 2000 are gone. So far, I'm very impressed! I did some low rpm gear banging with no notch or grind for the first time... ever, I think. Nice firm feel. I have just a couple hundred more break in miles on the gears before I flog it to know for sure. 
I'll report back.
I'll report back.
Last edited by Steve Gunn; Aug 28, 2010 at 05:13 PM.
Please be sure to share! I was lucky enough to finally have my clutch stick to the floor after trying to shift into 2nd at 6k rpm! Lol needless to say I'm putting my order in asap! So tell us how it works out for ya!
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 843
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From: Roseville, Ca.
Made some passes today. Ten times better than what it was. I did notice that the shifting degraded slightly after back to back passes. I'm going to screw with the adjustment 1 more time. I might give it a final burp also.
Here's stock vs. Tick
Here's stock vs. Tick
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When i put mine in, I just moved the big bundle of wires out of the way, slid right in. I then went on the otherside, inside the car, and held tension on the rod to pull the studs thru the firewall enough to put the nuts on. Took a half hour.
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Mines just came in the mail today. Looks like a very quality piece. I don't have the know how with this so I'm going to have a shop throw it in. Anything I should tell them? Keep the lines as far away from the headers?
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Washington
Actually had them install one on my car today. My clutch master cylinder was pretty much toast, so I don't know what a good one feels like (this is my first f-body), but the Tick unit is night and day better. Haven't really put the hammer down yet, but I might run through the gears a bit tonight. Definitely worth the money though!
I put mine in a while back. I took out the booster just to make it less of a pain.
the pedal has gone south again though, may need adjusting, or a slave. or maybe the ls7 clutch bit the dust
the pedal has gone south again though, may need adjusting, or a slave. or maybe the ls7 clutch bit the dust
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Virgina Beach
Put one in my WS6 that I roadrace and I can't believe how much better it is over stock. The stock stuff was pretty old and I had very bad problems with the clutch peddle sinking to the floor and not going into gear. Put in the Tick unit and even with a hard 30 min session involving many shifts, I have no problems at all. I use ATE Supper blue fluid and have only replaced it once after 4 race weekends. With the extended bleeder line it's no problem at all and finally easier to do than bleeding the brakes. Great product and highly recommend it.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 843
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From: Roseville, Ca.
The biggest problem I had was getting the bolts started from the inside. The bolts go through the pedal assembly bracket, then through the firewall. My bracket was popped out some, making it extremely difficult to get the first threads started.
After some bending and persuading with huge channel locks to get the bracket to lay flat against the firewall, I was finally able to get one started while having a phillips shoved through one hole for alignment and pushing down on the other bolt with a socket and extention with a piece of gum stuffed into the socket to hold the bolt. This part took me an hour. It would have been easier having someone guide it from the engine bay. I ended up with a massive carpet burn on my right elbow trying to wrestle the bolts in. The rest of the install wasn't too bad for a novice.
I followed the instructions in this post and it was extremely helpfull. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...stall-how.html
I then followed these instructions to bleed the clutch because I wasn't about to pull the trans again to install the remote bleeder. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-yourself.html
Everything else was self explanatory after reading these writeups a few times before getting started.
I had to mess with the adjustment some so the pedal engagement sensor would still work.
The feel of the pedal is much better and I got used to it within about 5 minutes of driving.
Guys, the clutch performs awesome! this is the first time I've been able to do a 5K clutch dump, then actually be able to stuff it into fourth without getting locked out. This master is a must if you're doing any aggressive driving!
After some bending and persuading with huge channel locks to get the bracket to lay flat against the firewall, I was finally able to get one started while having a phillips shoved through one hole for alignment and pushing down on the other bolt with a socket and extention with a piece of gum stuffed into the socket to hold the bolt. This part took me an hour. It would have been easier having someone guide it from the engine bay. I ended up with a massive carpet burn on my right elbow trying to wrestle the bolts in. The rest of the install wasn't too bad for a novice.
I followed the instructions in this post and it was extremely helpfull. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...stall-how.html
I then followed these instructions to bleed the clutch because I wasn't about to pull the trans again to install the remote bleeder. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-yourself.html
Everything else was self explanatory after reading these writeups a few times before getting started.
I had to mess with the adjustment some so the pedal engagement sensor would still work.
The feel of the pedal is much better and I got used to it within about 5 minutes of driving.
Guys, the clutch performs awesome! this is the first time I've been able to do a 5K clutch dump, then actually be able to stuff it into fourth without getting locked out. This master is a must if you're doing any aggressive driving!
Last edited by Steve Gunn; Sep 6, 2010 at 09:07 AM.
^^^This here is the best way to get that monster put it, unless you don't mind unbolting the breakbooster i guess. There's a ton of choices as far as fluid goes, but if you don't want your pedal getting soft after some hard runs, you should take some time to route your line as far from the header as possible, and top off your hydraulics with the highest temp fluid you can find
-1
for "running the highest temp fluid you can find". We did hours of R&D on these units and the best fluid that provided adequate cooling of the slave while prolonging the life of the Master cylinder was DOT 3. 