After battling shifting problems for a few months I had the Tick master cylinder installed to replace my Mcleod adjustable. The difference is dramatic between them to say the least. Where the Mcleod had a heavy clutch engagement, the Tick is light yet positive. Now I'm finally able to get it to shift when in the upper rpms. There is a problem though.

The problem I'm having now is, after making a pass at the track, I'm having difficulty getting the car to shift into gear (reverse especially). I've tried pumping the clutch but that doesn't work. After the car sits for a while, I'm able to shift it again with no problem. The trans was recently rebuilt, the clutch was replaced. What do I need to check now?

 

That sounds more like a fluid problem than a MC problem. You sure the fluid is clean? If you have been driving it hard it doesn't take long to gum it up.

 

Try wrapping your MC line with heater hose then wrap that with insulating tape and that should help out. The MC line runs right past the headers so it sees lots of heat.

 

The fluid is brand new. Everything was done this week.

The line was routed in a way where it isn't anywhere close to the headers.

 

you sure all the air is out? did you bench bleed the master? I didn't have to myself but have been told by others they had too.

 

Yeah, it was done on a bench...then redone.

 

tick also sell a speed bleeder that is incredible!

 

spped bleeder works great and it def sounds like a fluid issue, weather its dirty, overheated or has some air pockets.

 

I agree, it does sound like a fluid issue, but the system has been bled twice and has fresh fluid. What does the speed bleeder do that the normal bleeding process can't, besides doing it faster?

 

I drilled a hole in the floor of the car right next to the bleeder on the tranny under the carpet. Then used this bleeder from harbor fright for $25 bucks. I pulled the end off and attached a tube that fit around the bleeder it worked great. You need a grommet to fit the hole you drill. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html

It's a cheap easy way to bleed the clutch. I can bleed my clutch and replace all the fluid in it in 10min tops. I would wrap the MC line in something to it can't be that far away from the header it has to go right by it no matter how you ran it, it's gona get hot.

 

There is no way air can go back into the slave and its faster. It is also long enough to where you can bring it up to the reservoir and just keep pumping till all the air is out and you dont have to keep refilling the reservoir.

 

I really don't think there's air in the system. The problem seems to be getting worse though. Now, I don't have to race it for the problem to occur. I drove the car for a few miles yesterday and when I got home, the car wouldn't go into reverse. I had to sit there for a few seconds before it would finally engage. I had problems getting it into any gear. Even when it went in, I had to force it.

I never had this problem before so I don't know exactly where to turn.

 

What kind/brand of fluid are you using? Also take into consideration the tranny fluid you're running as well; That's gonna make a difference in shifting too.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Not too sure what kind of fluid was used. I'll have to ask the shop that did the work tomorrow. I have no problem changing to a different fluid if the fluid used could be the problem. What would you recommend?

 

Its starting to sound like the master isn't adjusted. Did you make sure that the nuts on the adjustment bar were tight? Does your clutch pedal feel shorter than before?

 

The clutch pedal feels the same. I think if it was an adjustment problem, the problem would still be there even after it cools down.

 

Did you ever resolve this problem?

 

I replaced the slave cylinder this week. The clutch feels a lot better now especially in normal driving. Though it did make that huge difference, I'm still not able to get the tranny into 4th at the track. I don't know what else to try. Everything transmission related has been replaced.

 

Hmm....well Ive always been told to replace the master and slave as a set. Ive had problems similar to yours with my jeep. I was told that having one unit wear out puts additional pressure on the other good unit and wears it out faster. I could never make sense out of this and dont understand why this would be true. Never the less ive always replaced both units at the same time. So, if its true, you may want to rebuild your master now that you have a new slave. In my camaro I just installed my new tick master with a new slave and new lines...but the car is still on blocks till i get the tranny back in. Ill let you know if I have any problems. I hope not to as now ever last part of the clutch hydraulic system will be new, including a new ls7 clutch assy.
Good luck and please post back if you make any progress!

 

The exact same thing just happened to me after my last track visit. It doesn't get better after cooling off though.

I'll be pulling the trans soon to see what's up.