The LT1 that won't shift
The LT1 that won't shift This problem is occurring on a 1993 Camaro z28.
I'm a visual person, so I made a chart to explain what has been going wrong with my car since I put in the new clutch. The part that really baffles me is the car got worse after installing new hydraulics.
I've had many threads on here trying to get this thing figured out but so far NOTHING has worked. The transmission is coming out again tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
I'm a visual person, so I made a chart to explain what has been going wrong with my car since I put in the new clutch. The part that really baffles me is the car got worse after installing new hydraulics.
I've had many threads on here trying to get this thing figured out but so far NOTHING has worked. The transmission is coming out again tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
Pressure Plate bolts are at 22lbs. I even bought a new Craftsmen torque wrench to be sure.
The fork didn't appear to be bent, but I haven't checked the pivot bolt.
The mechanic used a Mighty Vac to bleed the system, as well as bled it by hand.
I didn't check the flywheel thickness. But from my understanding, a flywheel that has been cut too much would cause the opposite problem.
The fork didn't appear to be bent, but I haven't checked the pivot bolt.
The mechanic used a Mighty Vac to bleed the system, as well as bled it by hand.
I didn't check the flywheel thickness. But from my understanding, a flywheel that has been cut too much would cause the opposite problem.
They're no longer prebled when the drill mod is done.
What has been done to bleed the hydraulic system? The LT1 setup is simple to do by compressing the slave and holding it so air can travel up.
What has been done to bleed the hydraulic system? The LT1 setup is simple to do by compressing the slave and holding it so air can travel up.
I took the slave cover off today and realized my fork look like it wasn't in the right position.
Here is a picture I found online of a properly installed fork:
Here is mine:
It can come as far forward as this:
And can be pressed back as far as this by hand:
It seems like it is sitting MUCH farther forward than it should be - could this be the issue?
Here is a picture I found online of a properly installed fork:
Here is mine:
It can come as far forward as this:
And can be pressed back as far as this by hand:
It seems like it is sitting MUCH farther forward than it should be - could this be the issue?
The fork clips onto the fulcrum tee and is designed to click inwards onto the throwout bearing. If it's on there, talk to comp. clutch about installed height of all related parts.
You sure you got the right flywheel surfaced?
edit: better pic of the pressure plate?
You sure you got the right flywheel surfaced?
edit: better pic of the pressure plate?
Last edited by jmd; Dec 29, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
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A picture of the pressure plate removed or a picture of it with the fork attached? Its pretty hard to see up in there - I'm not sure it would be possible to get a picture of where the fork attached to the throw out bearing.
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Will it shift into gear smoothly with the engine off? Did you have any tranny problems at all before swapping out the SPEC clutch? Does the tranny grind now when you try to put it in gear (engine on)? Does the pedal feel spongy or solid at all?
Your clutch fork location looks fine. However, that doesn't rule out that the pivot bolt could have backed out, or that the fork could be bent. It could also be a tranny problem. I'm starting to doubt you have a clutch problem, since you've already had 2 different clutches give you similar problems.
Your clutch fork location looks fine. However, that doesn't rule out that the pivot bolt could have backed out, or that the fork could be bent. It could also be a tranny problem. I'm starting to doubt you have a clutch problem, since you've already had 2 different clutches give you similar problems.
Will it shift into gear smoothly with the engine off? Did you have any tranny problems at all before swapping out the SPEC clutch? Does the tranny grind now when you try to put it in gear (engine on)? Does the pedal feel spongy or solid at all?
Your clutch fork location looks fine. However, that doesn't rule out that the pivot bolt could have backed out, or that the fork could be bent. It could also be a tranny problem. I'm starting to doubt you have a clutch problem, since you've already had 2 different clutches give you similar problems.
Your clutch fork location looks fine. However, that doesn't rule out that the pivot bolt could have backed out, or that the fork could be bent. It could also be a tranny problem. I'm starting to doubt you have a clutch problem, since you've already had 2 different clutches give you similar problems.
No transmission problems what so ever before taking out the SPEC.
No grinds. It just won't go into gear.
Pedal feels solid.
That is an ongoing thread I have about the problem.
But to answer your question, I've tried two different kits and I had the same problem with both.
