Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Another Mcleod Test question (Bugsquawsher..anyone)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-11-2004 | 08:09 AM
  #1  
Twister's Avatar
Thread Starter
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Default Another Mcleod Test question (Bugsquawsher..anyone)

Here is the brief history. Ram 402/6130, Stock Hydros wouldn't disengage it. Swapped in a Mcleod master after doing a bushman's bleed on it and drill mod. This cylinder was tight and the pedal is sitting just above the brake pedal. Engagement seems fine. Disengages about an inch from the floor and engages 1 inch before pedal is all the way out. Happy with that. Now, the problem is, I have some nice pedal play that seems to vary during the drive. Seems (just seems, no real recordings) that the play varies with engine speed. I can pump up the pedal and get it rock solid (feels awesome) and it will shift great for a couple minutes, then the top half of the pedal gets soft again. Did a 15# reverse bleed with pulling no bubbles. Haven't bled from the slave yet.
Questions:
1) is there any way of ruling out that it is the Mcleod cylinders fault? Is there some sort of in car test I can do like leaving the clutch engaged for so long that if it slowly slips then it is the masters fault. Reason being, I really, REALLY, do not have the time to remove the master again and bleed it.
2) Do these symptoms sound like air, or the typical Mcleod problems.
3) No real question, but I reserve this space to ask more!
Much thanks to all that contribute,
Jonathan Hays
Old 02-11-2004 | 09:13 PM
  #2  
Onyx Z's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 0
From: Houston/College Station, TX
Default

Hmm, kinda sounds like the problem I'm having.

Ryan
Old 02-11-2004 | 10:50 PM
  #3  
Bugsquawsher's Avatar
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, Texas, USA
Default

Ahhh
Mcleod strikes again.
Have I said I hate Mcleods.
Heres whats happening.
The front seal is gettin tiny little knicks in it everytime it passes the Holes that lead up to the reservoir. These little Knick leave little rubber particals that float around in the fluid.
Now they tend to get caught on the edge of the front seal. These start bypassing fluid around the seal and the clutch pedal engagement point starts to roam around.
I went through Two Mcleod POS masters that did this. Sometimes they work for a week, sometimes they couldn't make it around the block.
A stock master will do the job if you get the drill mod and keep your fluid clean.
Anymore questions?
Tom
Old 02-12-2004 | 12:58 AM
  #4  
Onyx Z's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 0
From: Houston/College Station, TX
Default

Then how come mine works flawlessly some of the time, like it's designed to????????? Sometimes it has a lot of play, yet at other times, the clutch feels nice and smooth, like it should. If what you are saying is true, wouldn't this cause the problems all of the time?

Mine has A LOT of play in the colder temperatures and almost none in the warmer weather. What could cause this?
Old 02-12-2004 | 06:35 AM
  #5  
Twister's Avatar
Thread Starter
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
Ahhh
Mcleod strikes again.
Have I said I hate Mcleods.
Heres whats happening.
The front seal is gettin tiny little knicks in it everytime it passes the Holes that lead up to the reservoir. These little Knick leave little rubber particals that float around in the fluid.
Now they tend to get caught on the edge of the front seal. These start bypassing fluid around the seal and the clutch pedal engagement point starts to roam around.
I went through Two Mcleod POS masters that did this. Sometimes they work for a week, sometimes they couldn't make it around the block.
A stock master will do the job if you get the drill mod and keep your fluid clean.
Anymore questions?
Tom
I had the drill mod and the stock master just won't push enough fluid. The Mcleod pushes just the right amount of fluid for my application. Say I want to stick with the Mcleod, what steps would you suggest I take to remedy the situation. Is there a way to prove the front seal nicks? If the seals were nick and leaking fluid through, wouldn't it mak sense that if constant pressure was applied to the clutch pedal, it should slowly work its way all the way to the floor. It looks like a great piece and I love its fit and finish. When the pedal is hard, I love the feeling, but when soft it isn't worth crap.
Old 02-12-2004 | 08:25 AM
  #6  
Bugsquawsher's Avatar
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, Texas, USA
Default

Originally Posted by Twister
I had the drill mod and the stock master just won't push enough fluid. The Mcleod pushes just the right amount of fluid for my application. Say I want to stick with the Mcleod, what steps would you suggest I take to remedy the situation. Is there a way to prove the front seal nicks? If the seals were nick and leaking fluid through, wouldn't it mak sense that if constant pressure was applied to the clutch pedal, it should slowly work its way all the way to the floor. It looks like a great piece and I love its fit and finish. When the pedal is hard, I love the feeling, but when soft it isn't worth crap.
The only reason you couldn't get the Stock on to push enough fluid was either is wasnt' bleed right. or was in need of replacement, for some reason.
the both run the same bore, 3/4" The math make them the same.
the stroke is also the same if I remember right.

Ok You asked if it was leaking wouldn't it slowly go down when pressure was applied.
I though this too, But what happens is that a little piece will get caught letting fluid Bypas for part of the pedal throw then dislodge and start Moving fluid the right direction.
But these little peices dislodge at different places everytime.

take it out and send that pos back to them and tell them to fix it Again.
How long you had it in there?
Also send a note with it to deburr the hole leading to the Reservoir.
Tom
Old 02-12-2004 | 08:28 AM
  #7  
Bugsquawsher's Avatar
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, Texas, USA
Default

Originally Posted by Onyx Z
Then how come mine works flawlessly some of the time, like it's designed to????????? Sometimes it has a lot of play, yet at other times, the clutch feels nice and smooth, like it should. If what you are saying is true, wouldn't this cause the problems all of the time?

Mine has A LOT of play in the colder temperatures and almost none in the warmer weather. What could cause this?
I believe another problem they have is the rubber seal they use gets a little hard when cold, Like the space Shuttle.
It doesn't seal as well when cold.
Do this
Get something to pull all the fluid out of the reservior and put it in a white paper towel.
Look real close and you'll see a bunch of little black chunks.
Old 02-12-2004 | 11:52 AM
  #8  
Twister's Avatar
Thread Starter
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
The only reason you couldn't get the Stock on to push enough fluid was either is wasnt' bleed right. or was in need of replacement, for some reason.
the both run the same bore, 3/4" The math make them the same.
the stroke is also the same if I remember right.

Ok You asked if it was leaking wouldn't it slowly go down when pressure was applied.
I though this too, But what happens is that a little piece will get caught letting fluid Bypas for part of the pedal throw then dislodge and start Moving fluid the right direction.
But these little peices dislodge at different places everytime.

take it out and send that pos back to them and tell them to fix it Again.
How long you had it in there?
Also send a note with it to deburr the hole leading to the Reservoir.
Tom
The Mcleod was installed just over a week ago...actually...last Saturday..so just under a week. The reason I installed it was because RAM told me that was the only way other than shims to make the clutch work correctly. The Factory master would just barely make it disengage. I do have to believe you because of your experience in working with these, however, I do believe that the adjustable portion also farther pedal travel which pushes more fluid. I examined the fluid and there is no apparent rubber. The reason I am very hesitent on sending the MC back is because I do not have a way to make my vehicle work for the time I am out.
Jonathan
Old 02-12-2004 | 12:03 PM
  #9  
Bugsquawsher's Avatar
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, Texas, USA
Default

Unless Mcleod started Making the Bore larger. You aren't going to push more fluid with it
You have a limited amout of pedal throw to actuate the Masters Piston.

Have you tried adjusting it?
If so ,,, when the pedal is all the way up , is there any pressure on the piston rod that goes into the master.
If you do have any the master will not work correctly.
The piston inside the master Must Come all the way back to clear the hole that are inside the Master that lead to the reservoir.This is so the pressure can be equalized for the next actuation.
the pedal should be stopped on its upward motion by the master , Not the other way around
Do you under stand what I'm explaining here?
Old 02-12-2004 | 12:51 PM
  #10  
Twister's Avatar
Thread Starter
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Default

Good thought and I think I understand what you are saying. I will check this issue tonight. I am thinking there is no pressure on the pedal when fully released, but I cannot say 100% sure without double checking.
Jonathan Hays
Old 02-15-2004 | 09:08 AM
  #11  
smokin' joe 00 ss's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
From: MI
Default

Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
Unless Mcleod started Making the Bore larger. You aren't going to push more fluid with it
You have a limited amout of pedal throw to actuate the Masters Piston.

Have you tried adjusting it?
If so ,,, when the pedal is all the way up , is there any pressure on the piston rod that goes into the master.
If you do have any the master will not work correctly.
The piston inside the master Must Come all the way back to clear the hole that are inside the Master that lead to the reservoir.This is so the pressure can be equalized for the next actuation.
the pedal should be stopped on its upward motion by the master , Not the other way around
Do you under stand what I'm explaining here?

This is how I set mine up and it shifts great all the time.
Old 02-15-2004 | 10:15 AM
  #12  
Bugsquawsher's Avatar
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, Texas, USA
Default

Originally Posted by smokin' joe 00 ss
This is how I set mine up and it shifts great all the time.
How is yours set up?
Old 02-15-2004 | 11:18 AM
  #13  
smokin' joe 00 ss's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
From: MI
Default

Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
How is yours set up?
I have the adj. rod end adj. out so there is no pressure on the m/c and it will just slide over the stud on the clutch pedal, this works great and there isn't any shifting problems. This is how Mcleod said they should be set up.
Old 02-16-2004 | 07:19 AM
  #14  
Twister's Avatar
Thread Starter
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
I believe another problem they have is the rubber seal they use gets a little hard when cold, Like the space Shuttle.
It doesn't seal as well when cold.
Do this
Get something to pull all the fluid out of the reservior and put it in a white paper towel.
Look real close and you'll see a bunch of little black chunks.
I am going to go ahead and Bow to your better knowledge

Went to go try another bleed with the mity vac last night just to see if something maybe floated to the top. Well, low and behold, rubber beads were floating in the reserve. Going to call Thunder Racing today.
Jonathan




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:58 AM.