Badezt Z28

iTrader: (1)

Ok so my swap kit got delivered today and I was just wondering if anyone here had any tips or advice with anything I might come across in the process.

jsmith564

Send it to me so I can put in my car... hahahaha. Jk

where did you get you're kit? And how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking. I am going to do this to my car soon I hope.

Badezt Z28

iTrader: (1)

High Performance Salvage. The kit was 1800 + Shipping and came from a car with 37k and a 90 day warranty.

INIT2WIN

iTrader: (9)

If you didn't get the M6 cars motor harness with the swap I would suggest trying to get that. It will make life a lot easier on you instead of cutting and splicing wires off of the A4 to make it work.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

swapping a whole harness is a lot more work than the few splices you need to do to the auto harness, I say just rewire that and save yourself some money

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

^^^ I agree. Swapping the entire harness would be a huge PITA next to splicing the few connectors needed to wire it up like stock.

RedRallyeZ

iTrader: (20)

One more vote for just splicing your A4 harness, so much easier than ripping the entire OEM harness out. not that hard to make proper connections.

As far as tips, I just read through the entire sticky and thats all i really needed. pretty much everything went smoothly with the exception of one INCREDIBLY hard to reach bolt at about the 10 o clock position on the auto.

and a word of advice, pull the steering column, makes pedal swapping and master cylinder mounting a breeze.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

It sounds like this would be the easiest route, but it's not. Read on, my friend

It's quite the opposite. Re-wiring is much easier said than done. Whereas, swapping harnesses is not as bad as you'd think.

Swapping the entire under-hood harness is not nearly as difficult as it sounds. It's somewhat time-consuming, as it will take 4-6 hours if you're in-experienced. I've done about a dozen conversions, and I would highly suggest that you do not cut and splice anything. Also, do not re-pin the PCM connectors. This leaves room for error. One mistake and you could spend days trying to track it down. Just keep it simple and swap the harness so that way everything plugs right in. Then you can sell off your old harness to re-coop on the cost.
Just my 0.02 ...speaking from experience

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I've never swapped a harness, but I did rewire my auto one when I did my swap, and with how easy it was I can't imagine swapping a whole harness could be simpler or easier. Overall I spent about an hour wiring. I soldered and shrink wrapped every connection, and I'd be willing to bet that my wiring will last as long as the car does. The only thing I cheated on was the reverse lockout solenoid for the time being until I have a day to do it right.

but that's just my .02 cents, also speaking from (albeit less) experience

CAL99SS

Is there any write ups on here about the conversion?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah at the top of the page in the sticky thread post. Its 43 pages long, it's good stuff

Boosterado

That is of course a LT1 car swap and the wiring instruction are a little off as far as color is concerned. The shifter positions sensor has 6 wires going in it and the wires for back up lights, neutral, and hatch release are in that. The neutral switch is supposed to be wired to the clutch pedal switch but I opted to just permanently wire it together as with the hatch release wires. The back up light wires both got lengthened about 15 inches and plugged into the passenger's side of the tranny. I then ran the wires down the side of the tranny and up through the hole I cut in the tunnel for the shifter. Put some heat proof loom on this extension and there should be no problems. Also the speedo plug should be lengthen about 6 inches to keep from pulling the entire harness too tightly. Seems that if you aren't running rear 02s, you might not have to do this but don't quote me on that. Lastly, I just skipped out on the reverse lockout and skip shift since I don't want to use either on of them. I can easily overpower the reverse lockout servo or just take it out and know the difference between reverse and 5th. I had 11 check engine light codes when doing this swap but then I took it to my tuner and he turned off all the auto trans codes and everything works fine. Cruise, traction control, ABS, speedo (which will be way off initially until corrected), back up lights, trunk release, and it starts at any time I turn the key but I have enough sense to put my car in neutral every time I park it. Swapping the harness would be a waste of time unless you want the CAGs and reverse lockout to perform optimally