Rebuild shops... so many to choose from! Who gives the best BANG for the bux?
#1
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I have a t56 that will need a performance rebuild, something in the 700hp range so I've been reading and searching over all the threads and opinions and it has become overwhelming to say the least lol.
I've gathered that for the most part, you can't go wrong with any of the sponsors, they all get raved reviews. So my question is this... What shop give you the best BANG for your hard earned shitty Obama economy dollar? I see a big difference in pricing between shops so I want to know what justifies this and who gives you the most for your money. Also what about warranty? Who offers the best warranty/guaranty?
Sorry for such the mundane questions, but I don't know enough about these trans or the rebuilds to determine for myself the best deal for my dollar, especially when I look over the options at one shop and they are X amount of dollars then I look over another and what seem to me is the same build, but a few hundred to a thousand dollars more. I fell I'm missing something.
Thanks for putting up with my questions guys
I've gathered that for the most part, you can't go wrong with any of the sponsors, they all get raved reviews. So my question is this... What shop give you the best BANG for your hard earned shitty Obama economy dollar? I see a big difference in pricing between shops so I want to know what justifies this and who gives you the most for your money. Also what about warranty? Who offers the best warranty/guaranty?
Sorry for such the mundane questions, but I don't know enough about these trans or the rebuilds to determine for myself the best deal for my dollar, especially when I look over the options at one shop and they are X amount of dollars then I look over another and what seem to me is the same build, but a few hundred to a thousand dollars more. I fell I'm missing something.
Thanks for putting up with my questions guys
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#2
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Basically it comes down the parts each builder recommends for the rebuild or the parts that need to be replaced once the unit is torn down and inspected. Some shops have a higher mark up on the parts and some charge more the labor to rebuild it. 90% of the parts used are going to be OEM Tremec parts. Things like billet shift keys and bronze fork pads are really about the only things used which are not OEM Tremec.
As I tell everyone that ask, you need to do your own research and go with a shop you feel comfortable using. Actual price can vary quite a bit from an estimate over the phone or via email depending on what parts need replacement once the unit is in the builders hands. Be ready for a bump in price and discuss this with who ever you intend to use.
As I tell everyone that ask, you need to do your own research and go with a shop you feel comfortable using. Actual price can vary quite a bit from an estimate over the phone or via email depending on what parts need replacement once the unit is in the builders hands. Be ready for a bump in price and discuss this with who ever you intend to use.
#3
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Thank you for the post Source. I will admit that I have read many of your posts and was looking to PM you soon, but since I wanted a unbiased reply from members, I didn't want to mention anyone by name at first. It just seems to me that in your posts, you don't go out of your way to upsell something if it's not needed just to make more money on the build and I respect that.
What shop do you represent, do you guys have a website to look over? What type of warranty/guarantee do you offer?
So no one else has any input?
Can someone please explain the difference and benefits between the magnum and the stage 3 or 4 (top built) t56.
And I am still waiting on some personal accounts with warranty and customer service - good and bad. I thought I read that one of the shops offered a 3 year warranty but now I can't find the thread. Anyone have a clue on what shop this is?
What shop do you represent, do you guys have a website to look over? What type of warranty/guarantee do you offer?
So no one else has any input?
Can someone please explain the difference and benefits between the magnum and the stage 3 or 4 (top built) t56.
And I am still waiting on some personal accounts with warranty and customer service - good and bad. I thought I read that one of the shops offered a 3 year warranty but now I can't find the thread. Anyone have a clue on what shop this is?
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So no one else has any input?
Can someone please explain the difference and benefits between the magnum and the stage 3 or 4 (top built) t56.
And I am still waiting on some personal accounts with warranty and customer service - good and bad. I thought I read that one of the shops offered a 3 year warranty but now I can't find the thread. Anyone have a clue on what shop this is?
Can someone please explain the difference and benefits between the magnum and the stage 3 or 4 (top built) t56.
And I am still waiting on some personal accounts with warranty and customer service - good and bad. I thought I read that one of the shops offered a 3 year warranty but now I can't find the thread. Anyone have a clue on what shop this is?
Wider gears which means its able to handle more power
Doesn't use stamp steel shift keys like the T56 does
Stronger mainshaft
Comes with a 1 piece cluster gear
Cons for the Magnum:
much smaller engaugement teeth on the gears so its far less forgiving when shifting it hard
doesn't fit any application as a direct fit so basically you will need to either modify your car to get it installed or purchase a custom built Magnum which raises the price about another $800 over the off the shelf unit cost.
If you are comparing a Magnum to a Viper spec hybrid unit with billet keys and the upgraded fork, basically the main difference is the width of the gear and the trade off with the smaller engaugement teeth.
#5
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I've read in a few thread that you didn't think the magnum was worth the trouble or extra money, has your opinion changed?
Also I guess you missed my questions in post 3 -
I'm only guessing that you represent Quick Time since that is your avatar, but Im not 100% sure. Can I get your website and business info to look over pricing and all that good stuff
Also I guess you missed my questions in post 3 -
What shop do you represent, do you guys have a website to look over? What type of warranty/guarantee do you offer?
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#6
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We would be glad to handle a rebuild for you, or set you up with a magnum conversion. With 700 rwhp you should atleast consider going with the viper mainshaft conversion, which is our level 3 build. This is assuming you have an f-body or GTO transmission.
The Magnum has tons of improvements with some of them highlighted by the source. If money isn't a concearn the magnum is deffinately a much stronger transmission. On our magnum conversions, we install all new bronze fork pads and replace the oem blockers on 1st, 3rd, and 4th with carbon. As the Magnum comes from Tremec it only has carbon rings on 2nd gear. The conversion requires a full tear down of the transmission to replace the blockers and shorten the mainshaft. Obviously the conversion itself consists of an f-body style tailhousing, shift rail, 31 spline modified slip yoke, and other various components.
We warranty our rebuilds for 1 year. Our warranty covers labor only. We rate our warranty to 600 rwhp/rwtq but we actually warranty any trans that breaks within the 1 year time period. I have warrantied one trans from a customer who admited the car made over 1000 rwhp.
We offer many options to help withstand these high hp levels (700 + rwhp). Among these options are Cryo treatment, REM polishing, faceplating and plumbing the case for oil squirters on the input and 3rd gears. With big power car that see dragstrip time or high speed highway pulls this is a must in order for the gearset to last.
The most obvious difference in prices of rebuilds from different builders is the number of parts the rebuild includes. The cheaper rebuilds will reuse your existing syncronizer assemblies. Most of the time, they aren't in good shape so all of our rebuilds include new 1/2 and 3/4 syncro assemblies in the base rebuild price. If a gear or other part is damaged or needs replaced this will be an additional cost. Theres no way to know what may be damaged until the transmission is torn down.
Heres a link to a thread I posted a while back about our Magnum conversion: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-body-gto.html
Let me know if theres anything we can do or if you have any questions!
The Magnum has tons of improvements with some of them highlighted by the source. If money isn't a concearn the magnum is deffinately a much stronger transmission. On our magnum conversions, we install all new bronze fork pads and replace the oem blockers on 1st, 3rd, and 4th with carbon. As the Magnum comes from Tremec it only has carbon rings on 2nd gear. The conversion requires a full tear down of the transmission to replace the blockers and shorten the mainshaft. Obviously the conversion itself consists of an f-body style tailhousing, shift rail, 31 spline modified slip yoke, and other various components.
We warranty our rebuilds for 1 year. Our warranty covers labor only. We rate our warranty to 600 rwhp/rwtq but we actually warranty any trans that breaks within the 1 year time period. I have warrantied one trans from a customer who admited the car made over 1000 rwhp.
We offer many options to help withstand these high hp levels (700 + rwhp). Among these options are Cryo treatment, REM polishing, faceplating and plumbing the case for oil squirters on the input and 3rd gears. With big power car that see dragstrip time or high speed highway pulls this is a must in order for the gearset to last.
The most obvious difference in prices of rebuilds from different builders is the number of parts the rebuild includes. The cheaper rebuilds will reuse your existing syncronizer assemblies. Most of the time, they aren't in good shape so all of our rebuilds include new 1/2 and 3/4 syncro assemblies in the base rebuild price. If a gear or other part is damaged or needs replaced this will be an additional cost. Theres no way to know what may be damaged until the transmission is torn down.
Heres a link to a thread I posted a while back about our Magnum conversion: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-body-gto.html
Let me know if theres anything we can do or if you have any questions!
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Also I guess you missed my questions in post 3 -
I'm only guessing that you represent Quick Time since that is your avatar, but Im not 100% sure. Can I get your website and business info to look over pricing and all that good stuff
I'm only guessing that you represent Quick Time since that is your avatar, but Im not 100% sure. Can I get your website and business info to look over pricing and all that good stuff
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
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I can say that I do not represent Quicktime but do sell quite a few of their bellhousings. If you have any further questions, please contact me privately and I will be glad to answer them as best as I can.
Last edited by thesource; 05-29-2011 at 05:09 PM.
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As you may have read, my builds start out at $680. This includes a "freshen up" plus the upgrades of a steel 3-4 fork and billet 3-4 keys. I don't know for sure if anyone else uses the same billet 3-4 keys that I do, but mine are comprised of 4140 chromoly alloy. The "freshen up" job includes all new synchro rings, keys, springs, fork pads, and seals --parts & labor. On top of that, the rest of the build is entirely based on the condition of the tranny. We do them on a "case by case" basis. I personally check and approve the parts replaced in all the T56 builds that go thru the shop, and I'm extremely picky about it. When you get the tranny back, it will be better than new.
Another fact that makes my shop different is that we work closely with a very specialized and unique machine shop. I can get some parts repaired or modified for much cheaper than a new part would cost, and it ends up being better. One example is that I get the 5-6 mainshaft journals widened in order to form a tight press fit of the 5-6 driven gear. From the factory, about 80-90% of the time, it's too loose of a fit. So basically I get the factory "flaw" repaired and made to where it will never happen again. If this problem progresses, then eventually it will turn into a high speed vibration. If I were to simply replace the mainshaft, like most builders do, the problem will most likely come back a few years down the road.
Anyway, I could write a lot more, but this is already a long post.
Another fact that makes my shop different is that we work closely with a very specialized and unique machine shop. I can get some parts repaired or modified for much cheaper than a new part would cost, and it ends up being better. One example is that I get the 5-6 mainshaft journals widened in order to form a tight press fit of the 5-6 driven gear. From the factory, about 80-90% of the time, it's too loose of a fit. So basically I get the factory "flaw" repaired and made to where it will never happen again. If this problem progresses, then eventually it will turn into a high speed vibration. If I were to simply replace the mainshaft, like most builders do, the problem will most likely come back a few years down the road.
Anyway, I could write a lot more, but this is already a long post.
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#9
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As you may have read, my builds start out at $680. This includes a "freshen up" plus the upgrades of a steel 3-4 fork and billet 3-4 keys. I don't know for sure if anyone else uses the same billet 3-4 keys that I do, but mine are comprised of 4140 chromoly alloy. The "freshen up" job includes all new synchro rings, keys, springs, fork pads, and seals --parts & labor. On top of that, the rest of the build is entirely based on the condition of the tranny. We do them on a "case by case" basis. I personally check and approve the parts replaced in all the T56 builds that go thru the shop, and I'm extremely picky about it. When you get the tranny back, it will be better than new.
Another fact that makes my shop different is that we work closely with a very specialized and unique machine shop. I can get some parts repaired or modified for much cheaper than a new part would cost, and it ends up being better. One example is that I get the 5-6 mainshaft journals widened in order to form a tight press fit of the 5-6 driven gear. From the factory, about 80-90% of the time, it's too loose of a fit. So basically I get the factory "flaw" repaired and made to where it will never happen again. If this problem progresses, then eventually it will turn into a high speed vibration. If I were to simply replace the mainshaft, like most builders do, the problem will most likely come back a few years down the road.
Anyway, I could write a lot more, but this is already a long post.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Another fact that makes my shop different is that we work closely with a very specialized and unique machine shop. I can get some parts repaired or modified for much cheaper than a new part would cost, and it ends up being better. One example is that I get the 5-6 mainshaft journals widened in order to form a tight press fit of the 5-6 driven gear. From the factory, about 80-90% of the time, it's too loose of a fit. So basically I get the factory "flaw" repaired and made to where it will never happen again. If this problem progresses, then eventually it will turn into a high speed vibration. If I were to simply replace the mainshaft, like most builders do, the problem will most likely come back a few years down the road.
Anyway, I could write a lot more, but this is already a long post.
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I have a t56 that will need a performance rebuild, something in the 700hp range so I've been reading and searching over all the threads and opinions and it has become overwhelming to say the least lol.
I've gathered that for the most part, you can't go wrong with any of the sponsors, they all get raved reviews. So my question is this... What shop give you the best BANG for your hard earned shitty Obama economy dollar? I see a big difference in pricing between shops so I want to know what justifies this and who gives you the most for your money. Also what about warranty? Who offers the best warranty/guaranty?
Sorry for such the mundane questions, but I don't know enough about these trans or the rebuilds to determine for myself the best deal for my dollar, especially when I look over the options at one shop and they are X amount of dollars then I look over another and what seem to me is the same build, but a few hundred to a thousand dollars more. I fell I'm missing something.
Thanks for putting up with my questions guys![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
I've gathered that for the most part, you can't go wrong with any of the sponsors, they all get raved reviews. So my question is this... What shop give you the best BANG for your hard earned shitty Obama economy dollar? I see a big difference in pricing between shops so I want to know what justifies this and who gives you the most for your money. Also what about warranty? Who offers the best warranty/guaranty?
Sorry for such the mundane questions, but I don't know enough about these trans or the rebuilds to determine for myself the best deal for my dollar, especially when I look over the options at one shop and they are X amount of dollars then I look over another and what seem to me is the same build, but a few hundred to a thousand dollars more. I fell I'm missing something.
Thanks for putting up with my questions guys
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Hi, please read this ad FIRST...ALL of our T56-TR6060 Change_overs use ONLY the Newest 2012 Upgraded Parts...PLUS they will Bolt right in with NO modifications NEEDED..!!! Check out our Prices compared to others...
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Hey guys,
We take your T56 transmission and turn it into a super smooth shifting TR6060 with all the Newest 2012 Upgrades...
All Internals are Brand New, Including the New Front Cover Plate with the huge input shaft bearing, not reused used parts..!!
Our T56 to TR6060 Change-over units have a much greater Hp/Tq capacity than any Custom Built T-56 can handle...It does not matter if its a Level 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 Built T56, it will NEVER be able to handle the power a TR6060 can..
Some of you may have heard about the shifting issue's the 08-09 Z06's & ZR1's have...You will not have that with our units..
All of our custom built Change-Over-Units have all the Upgrades used in 2012 TR6060's, PLUS you get Carbon Rings in 1st/3rd/4th and the NEW Synchro's in 1/2 & 3/4 have been Updated also from 08-09 years...
Plus our units will shift like butter...
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Corvette T56 C5's C6's & Z06's from 1997-2007
We can take any Corvette T56 C5's C6's & Z06's from 1997-2007 and Change it into a TR6060, and it will bolt directly into your Corvette without any customization(Plug-N-Play) we change all the fittings so it will match your specific corvette, if you have the lube option on your C6 or Z06 it will come with a Brand New Front Cover Bump Plate from a 2010 TR6060, which has the huge front input shaft bearing...All your pump lines and fittings will fit perfectly, they will be in the exact same spots as the unit you take out of your car...Just pick your Gear Ratio Poison from the list below...
**RIGHT NOW we are offering FREE LUBE PUMPS w/ALL CORVETTE CHANGE OVERS TO TR6060's**
1998-02 F-body's & 2004-06 GTO's
We can do the exact same thing to any 98-02 F-body & 04-06 GTO T56 Trans, Change it into a TR6060 with all the Upgrades mention above...
Just pick your Gear Ratio Poison from the list below...
>>Plus you guys get a much stronger 31 Spline Main-Output Shaft, so you will need to upgrade your 27 spline yoke to our larger 31 Spline Yoke...
The same goes for any 2004-2008 Cadillac CTSV....
You can pick from any of these ratio's...
RATIO OPTIONS
ZR1 Unit Ratio 2.29 1.60 1.21 1.00 .84 .67 Exchange Special Price $3995
Z06 Unit Ratio 2.66 1.78 1.30 1.00 .75 .50 OR .80 .63 Exchange Special Price $3495
Z51 Unit Ratio 2.97 2.07 1.43 1.00 .74 .50 OR .80 .63 Exchange Special Price $3495
1998-02 F-body's & 2004-06 GTO guys will need the Upgraded 31 Spline Yoke...$199...which holds the Large 1350 u-joint...
Also we highly recommend using our specially formulated Manual Transmission Fluid...Its $15.99 per qt...Takes 5 quarts...
Shipping, Handling & Insurance (In the lower 48 states) $125-$179
We pay for the Return Freight on your Core!!!
Core Charges will range between $750-$1000, depends on type of T56, once we receive your core back, you will be refunded the core charge...You have 15 days to return your core...
Comes with a 1 year Warranty!!!
Call Mike Yeager to place your order Mon-Sat 9am-7pm est...Sun 1pm-6pm est...
Thanks for your interest..
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We accept Visa, MC, Disc & Paypal..!!!
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Our T56 to TR6060 Change-over units have a much greater Hp/Tq capacity than any Custom Built T-56 can handle...It does not matter if its a Level 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 Built T56, it will NEVER be able to handle the power a TR6060 can..
IMHO, the T56 build is the only way to go for the best "bang for the buck". As you can see, it costs roughly double to build a TR6060 for a +/- 20% gain in power handling. The T56 won't start breaking gears until you're pushing well over 750-800HP/TQ and driving the hell out of the car.
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I've heard and seen a lot of issues with the small engagement teeth used in the TR6060 trannys, especially with 2nd gear. What exactly has been changed/updated in the "Newest 2012 Upgraded Parts"?? Would you happen to have pics and/or part numbers? I would love to know, as we've only done a handful of TR6060 builds at the shop.
I measured and confirmed that the gears are indeed wider, which equates to more strength. However, when compared to the T56 gears, there difference is only about 15% more width, give or take a little bit.. This is good, but it's not a huge difference.
IMHO, the T56 build is the only way to go for the best "bang for the buck". As you can see, it costs roughly double to build a TR6060 for a +/- 20% gain in power handling. The T56 won't start breaking gears until you're pushing well over 750-800HP/TQ and driving the hell out of the car.
I measured and confirmed that the gears are indeed wider, which equates to more strength. However, when compared to the T56 gears, there difference is only about 15% more width, give or take a little bit.. This is good, but it's not a huge difference.
IMHO, the T56 build is the only way to go for the best "bang for the buck". As you can see, it costs roughly double to build a TR6060 for a +/- 20% gain in power handling. The T56 won't start breaking gears until you're pushing well over 750-800HP/TQ and driving the hell out of the car.
I agree, "bang for the buck" you can't beat a T56. I never recommend any customer to upgrade to a TR6060 unless they are making 700+rwhp/rwtq or planning a lot of top speed runs like a competitive mile car. We have seen the TR6060 handle some amazing abuse, abuse that a T56 would NEVER handle. We have a 1,300rwhp 4300lb 2010 Camaro running a TR6060, an 1,800 crank horse power texas mile C6 Z06 running one as well. Along with literally hundreds of ~1,000rwhp cars. The TR6060 is a much better high HP transmission than the T56 but it is definately not budget friendly in most cases.
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Guys please always be very careful, you get what you pay for!!! And always ask for a detailed list of every single item they claim to install in your rebuild..This way you will really know what you get, and if not then you will always be able to go back on whomever lied to you...Also make sure and get a copy of your complete warranty...![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
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We rebuild all Corvette, F-body, GTO's, CTS-V's and Viper transmissions...And we rebuild & ship trans from all over the world...![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
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Please dont hesitate to call me anytime...
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We rebuild all Corvette, F-body, GTO's, CTS-V's and Viper transmissions...And we rebuild & ship trans from all over the world...
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