i really hope i just need a clutch and master cylinder.. :(
#1
i really hope i just need a clutch and master cylinder.. :(
my car has recently been given me trouble when i do hard shifts, some times 1-2, but more often 2-3, and 3-4 and so on. It started happening about a month and a half or so after i did my cam install. If im getting on it and try to shift hard my clutch pedal sticks to the floor and i have to pull the clutch pedal back up with my foot and then it doesnt wanna go into gear very easy after that, i basically have to pump the clutch pedal and force it into gear. At idle, i can push the clutch in, put it in first, and itll make a lite grinding noise, nothing really loud, but i can hear it and feel it through the shifter handle. i can also kind of hear something under the car rattling with the idle, not sure if its transmission related or not. Ive searched and found out the sticking clutch pedal is a normal thing with our shitty master cylinders, so im going to replace it with one from tick performance, but the grinding thing, and it not wanting to go into gear when the clutch pedal sticks has me worried. it has 111k miles and im pretty sure it has the stock clutch in it... can/would a bad clutch cause this? I really dont wanna spend $1200 rebuilding the tranny plus spending another $1100 on a clutch and master cylinder, im about to start putting a procharger setup together and this is gonna put a damper on it also on a side note, The car drives fine when driving normal, Except that it still grinds when i come to a stop while its in gear. and ive never had a problem with putting it into 1st from a stop.
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#8
ok kool thanks. I was looking at the LS7 clutch kits from ws6store with the aluminum flywheel. any idea if that comes with a slave cylinder, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing ect ect...? after going procharged ill probably be 550rwhp or less and ive seen read that alot of guys having good luck with them. just tryin to save a few bucks
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
It Sounds to me that if you have a slip, it's being caused from LACK OF FLUID.. No reason your pedal should dump to the floor and not kick back to you. That's a hydrolic issue. When you pull it apart, if you want to stay stock, then have your flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced and clutch disc redone at a clutch shop or you can just buy aftermarket components. The way this sounds, its been going on for a while, so things probably need to be freshened up. It's not your tranny, but if you leave it much longer then you will be rumning into more issues and you don't want that at all
#11
if you're pulling out a 110k+ mile transmission that's going behind a cammed and supercharged engine I would consider having it gone through, but if you choose not to okay.
search for the ls7 clutch on here, lots of people run it no issues but with the number of clutch disengagement problems people have I wouldn't put one in my car. the fact is that they are designed for a different slave and are really hit or miss. a sponsor on here in this section has posted several times about the number of rebuilds they get from cars with ls7 clutches because it drags so much.
if you want to stay on a budget look at TDP's diamond clutches, I have a stage 2 rated at 600hp and it's a very nice clutch (and also affordable) which you can buy in a complete kit with everything you need or just the disc and pressure plate if you already have a good flywheel
search for the ls7 clutch on here, lots of people run it no issues but with the number of clutch disengagement problems people have I wouldn't put one in my car. the fact is that they are designed for a different slave and are really hit or miss. a sponsor on here in this section has posted several times about the number of rebuilds they get from cars with ls7 clutches because it drags so much.
if you want to stay on a budget look at TDP's diamond clutches, I have a stage 2 rated at 600hp and it's a very nice clutch (and also affordable) which you can buy in a complete kit with everything you need or just the disc and pressure plate if you already have a good flywheel
#12
Ok Thanks for the help. I def can't stay stock so I'll look into those clutches. I won't get the ls7 then. On the ws6 store the monster stage 2 clutch comes with everything minus the master cylinder. and yea I know the tranny should b gone through but it's a street car that gets driven on the weekends. I don't abuse it, just bursts of speed every now and then and o never launch the car hard from a dead stop either. But when my tranny does give, I'll fix it at that time.
#13
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
If you are looking at monster set-up I'd look at Tick. They can set you up with everything you need for between 1050 and 1200 depending on level 2 or 3 package.
Complete Monster Clutch Kit with 28LB Flywheel
Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line
GM Style Slave Cylinder (F-Body Type)
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Clutch Alignment Tool
And right now they are running a deal on Monster clutches with free shipping.
Tick-Shift
Complete Monster Clutch Kit with 28LB Flywheel
Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line
GM Style Slave Cylinder (F-Body Type)
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Clutch Alignment Tool
And right now they are running a deal on Monster clutches with free shipping.
Tick-Shift
#14
Ok kool. It's gonna b a month before I can replace it. I gotta get the $1100 to buy the parts. Hopefully I can pick up a little OT at work. Thanks for the input though and I'll def look into tick. I was gonna get their master cylinder anyway. I'd like to pick up the lighter flywheel though.
#16
10 Second Club
iTrader: (30)
Do not get the lighter flywheel.. it is only for making bigger dyno numbers and being able to rev quicker.. it also sucks when going to the track.. you want to be able to get a heavy car moving that is why you stick with similar weight to stock.. get the regular 26lb flywheel.
I got my Monster Stg 3 premium package, Tick Master, and Remote bleeder (highly recommend this for extra $50ish) for like $1100 from Tick. I am happy.
I got my Monster Stg 3 premium package, Tick Master, and Remote bleeder (highly recommend this for extra $50ish) for like $1100 from Tick. I am happy.
#17
Well I don't go to the track, just drive it on the street. Wouldn't I want it to rev faster being forced induction so I could build boost quicker? i kno when I had quads (yfz450) I'd put lighter flywheels on them. They were a little harder to ride but they pulled alot better out of corners. I just figured it'd b a similar result in a car.