OK gang,
I've decided on what type of clutch to replace my old unit which is dying gracefully.
My question is: Should I replace all the ancillary pieces also.
I have the flywheel, clutch and slave cylinder for sure.
How about the pilot bearing, new bolts, master cylinder, etc.

 

pilot bearing and new bolts go in the category of being cheap enough to warrant replacement when clutch is out anyway. I didn't go for ARP bolts however, just new GM ones.

The master could use an upgrade, but in my mind its not one of those pieces that easier installed when the trans it out. ITs gonna suck either way. My trans was out when my tick was installed, and i don't see how it would have been easier or harder with the trans in. So worst case scenario, you can do that later. But having driven cars with a stock master and then mine with the tick master, you NEED a tick master.

I couldn't tell by your post if you ALREADY had the flywheel, slave, etc. but if you don't, looking into buying the entire clutch swap kit from tick. They have any stage monster clutch, with slave, flywheel, new bolts, and the tick master at a little bit of a discount compared to what they would have been separately.

 

Thanks, I have been wondering about the master cylinder swap out.
Everything I read states you need a few sets of hands to do it but, once it's done, it's worth it.
My flywheel and clutch setup is not coming from the sponsors here.
It's not that their stuff is not good, it's that my buddies who race professionally all say McLeod.
I'm going to get the McLeod twin disk street set up with the Yalla Terra ultra light steel flywheel.
The wheel is 14 lbs. and will make up a nice package for a torquey LS1 that I have planned for.
Clutch should be good for 800 horse and I know I'm not getting there with a street CA car.

 

Light weight Fly wheel = a poor 1/4mi car and degraded street manners.

 

Don't give a rats *** about 1/4 mile. This car was made for twisties.
As far as street manners, old wives tale.
I have driven cars with light weight flywheels and it is no problem.
They design cars for old ladies to drive now.
The rev response is great and anytime you can get weight out of the car, it's all good.

 

So where in your post do you mention how the car is used?

I have driven Light F/W cars with stock weight and stock gears and there is most certainly a difference. Some people end up popping clutches since they do not learn how to drive.

As for

That is the one place in MOST cases where you do not want to remove weight from. Aside from the group who like to parking lot race, or rice from a roll they may not care about revs dropping too quickly off the launch. M6 cars in the 1/4 definitly need it.

But what I will say is what choices people make for parts depending on what they are racing and I may not know exactly what your friends run for parts but I can bet their cars is far from what people here see for the majority of 4th gen F-bodies. Depending on what "level" of racing your work in, certain names come up more often and the way this comes across is a guy looking to replace the clutch and in most cases people are not hardcore auto crossing and if they are. THEY STATE IT IN THE ORIGINAL POST!

Also to ask what is a car made for "twisties" making where you need to worry about having up to 800 hp rating required. Twin Disks are nice and all but just wondering if your going beyond the a typical 400-450 rwhp heads cam set ups (with the rare exception of a near 500 rwhp h/c set up that pops up from time to time.)

/Rant

Anyways, I am sure you will have a good time with the clutch, just keep on bleeding it out if your fluid tends to burn up from racing in the twisties.

 

The total weight of the assembly needs to be taken into consideration to give an accurate comparison. With that being said, our 18lb "lightweight" flywheel combined with our disc and pressure plate weighs in at ~42lbs. Feel free to contact me with any other questions you may have. Chris, 817-750-2000

 

Actually, I never gave it a thought about posting what I was doing or want to do in my sig.
I have been driving for more than 40 years.
I held the C comp record for a whole 3 minutes before a twin turbo rat motored Opel destroyed it. (too many year ago but it still hurts)
I've raced a three cylinder Kawaski 2 stroke on Laguna Seca.
I've done a lot.
This WS 6 I have will be modified to be a very quick, great handling street car.
Not a drag car, not something that would not be streetable.
I know my way around an engine.
A torquey LS1 with a light weight clutch assembly will be a blast to drive and be able to be driven every day if needed.
My 800 HP comment was a stab at CA restrictions.
With minor engine mods that will still pass smog, I should be able to throw another 75 HP to the wheels without any problems.
Thats all this car will ever get from my wallet.
The rest will be maintenance until I give it over to one of my boys.
God knows they will never get to own something nice like that with the economy the way it is.

 

i would definitely do the slave cylinder.....murphys law says it will fail if you dont do it......

 

Slave while it's out.
Flywheel has a minimum thickness spec; see your machine shop on that; replace as needed.
Pilot bearing absolutely. Tap it in just far enough to clear the input; not hammered all the way.
Oh and learn how to ignore useless posts.

 

100% agreed - our COMPLETE Clutch Swap Package was designed to take the guesswork out of your next clutch install. It comes with everything you should replace/upgrade at the same time: http://www.tickperformance.com/ls1-f...-swap-package/