Clutch 'fades' after hard spirited driving
04-24-2012, 09:27 PM
#1
Clutch 'fades' after hard spirited driving Sorry if this is a repost, I wasn't even sure what to search, as I'm a noob at manual transmissions.
After going through the gears at high rpms, the clutch will only engage at about 1/2"-1" from the floor. After the car cools down, the clutch feels normal. Does it need to be bled, or do I need a new master cylinder?
One other thing- when I'm shifting at about 2k rpm, the car will almost always buck no matter how lightly I let out the clutch. Will new u-joints fix this or should I just shift at higher rpm/work on shifting better?
After going through the gears at high rpms, the clutch will only engage at about 1/2"-1" from the floor. After the car cools down, the clutch feels normal. Does it need to be bled, or do I need a new master cylinder?
One other thing- when I'm shifting at about 2k rpm, the car will almost always buck no matter how lightly I let out the clutch. Will new u-joints fix this or should I just shift at higher rpm/work on shifting better?
04-25-2012, 06:48 AM
#2
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Sorry if this is a repost, I wasn't even sure what to search, as I'm a noob at manual transmissions.
After going through the gears at high rpms, the clutch will only engage at about 1/2"-1" from the floor. After the car cools down, the clutch feels normal. Does it need to be bled, or do I need a new master cylinder?
One other thing- when I'm shifting at about 2k rpm, the car will almost always buck no matter how lightly I let out the clutch. Will new u-joints fix this or should I just shift at higher rpm/work on shifting better?
After going through the gears at high rpms, the clutch will only engage at about 1/2"-1" from the floor. After the car cools down, the clutch feels normal. Does it need to be bled, or do I need a new master cylinder?
One other thing- when I'm shifting at about 2k rpm, the car will almost always buck no matter how lightly I let out the clutch. Will new u-joints fix this or should I just shift at higher rpm/work on shifting better?
04-25-2012, 09:43 AM
#4
Bleeding the clutch in this situation wont help his matter. What is happening is the factory GM master (3/4 bore) cannot push enough fluid to the slave cylinder, resulting in his sinking pedal. Our Master (7/8 bore) pushes more fluid to the slave preventing the fluid from overheating and boiling allowing for proper operations of the slave at high rpms.
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04-25-2012, 02:07 PM
#8
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To the OP this is what everyone is referring to:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1539002-tick-master-cylinder-review-if-you-have-any-kind-shifting-problems-read.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1539002-tick-master-cylinder-review-if-you-have-any-kind-shifting-problems-read.html
04-25-2012, 02:59 PM
#9
As for the return spring... well we suggest you remove it with our kit anyway
04-25-2012, 03:06 PM
#10
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Just some friendly advice after owning 6 Fbodies and a vette.; You are going to want to fix stuff with quality parts the 1st time, don't go for budget stuff. You'll always regret it later on. If you can't spring for it now (Lord knows I've been dealing with the same issue on my Vette for a while now) save up for one.
04-25-2012, 10:22 PM
#11
Question: why is my master cylinder bad?
-Is it worn out to the point where the clutch barely engages? Wouldn't that mean I could replace it with a new stock one?
-Or does this have to do with how it was designed? Wouldn't that mean from the factory it would barely engage the clutch after spirited runs, like it does now?
Last edited by Conrad; 04-25-2012 at 11:15 PM.
04-26-2012, 08:21 AM
#12
Alright guys you got me (like always). I'll save some money to get the Tick. Do you have instructions on how to install this? And do you have any deals for LS1tech members or upcoming sales? I'd like to save anything I can.
Question: why is my master cylinder bad?
-Is it worn out to the point where the clutch barely engages? Wouldn't that mean I could replace it with a new stock one?
-Or does this have to do with how it was designed? Wouldn't that mean from the factory it would barely engage the clutch after spirited runs, like it does now?
Question: why is my master cylinder bad?
-Is it worn out to the point where the clutch barely engages? Wouldn't that mean I could replace it with a new stock one?
-Or does this have to do with how it was designed? Wouldn't that mean from the factory it would barely engage the clutch after spirited runs, like it does now?
The factory master goes bad primarily because of the the cylinder fails itself. It fails due to the large demand for performance. You could replace it with another stock one, however a brand new stock one will still give you a sinking pedal when driving it hard and at high rpms. Unlike our master, it cannot flow the fluid the slave needs to operate at that demand.
04-26-2012, 11:11 AM
#13
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to the OP i made the mistake that you are wanting to make yourself lol, i replaced mine with a stock master and i have the same issues still, its just over a year old and has done it since i installed it. if you want a stock one i'll gladly sell you the one right off my car and use that money for a tick haha
04-26-2012, 11:54 AM
#14
another satisfied Tick Performance customer here.....my slave failed completely due to the shitty design of the stock master.
many people simply take out the stock master, do the "drill mod" (drilling out the restrictor placed in the hydraulic line so as to allow more flow), then replace the slave (if it's hosed) and put it all back together.
this is definitely an "upgrade" of sorts, and it's free to do (unless you have to replace the parts at the same time), but there's still no guarantee that it will completely solve the problem, and you have the potential to FUBAR the stock line in the process.
the Tick unit comes without the restriction in the first place, so there's no worry of voiding the warranty like you would on a stock replacement unit, and you get adjustability & much better flow, which should help prevent the problem from ever coming back again, as well as allowing you set set the engagement point exactly to your liking....welll worth the higher price, IMO.
just be prepared to possibly have to replace the clutch in the process....when i had my new master/slave installed (had a shop do it because i needed the car back on the road ASAP), they found that the clutch (as well as the flywheel & pressure plate) is on its last leg, so now i gotta get those, too. probably gonna end up with the Monster Stage 2 from Tick with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
still, 77k miles on the stock clutch after taking some abuse is not bad at all...sure, i could have probably gotten a lot more miles if i'd have driven like a granny....but if that was my intent, i'd buy a damn Prius or something....
just be sure that you get this taken care of ASAP, and/or baby it a bit until you do, so you don't end up causing the slave to fail in the meantime, leaving you stranded with no clutch pedal.
many people simply take out the stock master, do the "drill mod" (drilling out the restrictor placed in the hydraulic line so as to allow more flow), then replace the slave (if it's hosed) and put it all back together.
this is definitely an "upgrade" of sorts, and it's free to do (unless you have to replace the parts at the same time), but there's still no guarantee that it will completely solve the problem, and you have the potential to FUBAR the stock line in the process.
the Tick unit comes without the restriction in the first place, so there's no worry of voiding the warranty like you would on a stock replacement unit, and you get adjustability & much better flow, which should help prevent the problem from ever coming back again, as well as allowing you set set the engagement point exactly to your liking....welll worth the higher price, IMO.
just be prepared to possibly have to replace the clutch in the process....when i had my new master/slave installed (had a shop do it because i needed the car back on the road ASAP), they found that the clutch (as well as the flywheel & pressure plate) is on its last leg, so now i gotta get those, too. probably gonna end up with the Monster Stage 2 from Tick with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
still, 77k miles on the stock clutch after taking some abuse is not bad at all...sure, i could have probably gotten a lot more miles if i'd have driven like a granny....but if that was my intent, i'd buy a damn Prius or something....
just be sure that you get this taken care of ASAP, and/or baby it a bit until you do, so you don't end up causing the slave to fail in the meantime, leaving you stranded with no clutch pedal.
04-26-2012, 12:32 PM
#15
another satisfied Tick Performance customer here.....my slave failed completely due to the shitty design of the stock master.
many people simply take out the stock master, do the "drill mod" (drilling out the restrictor placed in the hydraulic line so as to allow more flow), then replace the slave (if it's hosed) and put it all back together.
this is definitely an "upgrade" of sorts, and it's free to do (unless you have to replace the parts at the same time), but there's still no guarantee that it will completely solve the problem, and you have the potential to FUBAR the stock line in the process.
the Tick unit comes without the restriction in the first place, so there's no worry of voiding the warranty like you would on a stock replacement unit, and you get adjustability & much better flow, which should help prevent the problem from ever coming back again, as well as allowing you set set the engagement point exactly to your liking....welll worth the higher price, IMO.
just be prepared to possibly have to replace the clutch in the process....when i had my new master/slave installed (had a shop do it because i needed the car back on the road ASAP), they found that the clutch (as well as the flywheel & pressure plate) is on its last leg, so now i gotta get those, too. probably gonna end up with the Monster Stage 2 from Tick with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
still, 77k miles on the stock clutch after taking some abuse is not bad at all...sure, i could have probably gotten a lot more miles if i'd have driven like a granny....but if that was my intent, i'd buy a damn Prius or something....
just be sure that you get this taken care of ASAP, and/or baby it a bit until you do, so you don't end up causing the slave to fail in the meantime, leaving you stranded with no clutch pedal.
many people simply take out the stock master, do the "drill mod" (drilling out the restrictor placed in the hydraulic line so as to allow more flow), then replace the slave (if it's hosed) and put it all back together.
this is definitely an "upgrade" of sorts, and it's free to do (unless you have to replace the parts at the same time), but there's still no guarantee that it will completely solve the problem, and you have the potential to FUBAR the stock line in the process.
the Tick unit comes without the restriction in the first place, so there's no worry of voiding the warranty like you would on a stock replacement unit, and you get adjustability & much better flow, which should help prevent the problem from ever coming back again, as well as allowing you set set the engagement point exactly to your liking....welll worth the higher price, IMO.
just be prepared to possibly have to replace the clutch in the process....when i had my new master/slave installed (had a shop do it because i needed the car back on the road ASAP), they found that the clutch (as well as the flywheel & pressure plate) is on its last leg, so now i gotta get those, too. probably gonna end up with the Monster Stage 2 from Tick with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
still, 77k miles on the stock clutch after taking some abuse is not bad at all...sure, i could have probably gotten a lot more miles if i'd have driven like a granny....but if that was my intent, i'd buy a damn Prius or something....
just be sure that you get this taken care of ASAP, and/or baby it a bit until you do, so you don't end up causing the slave to fail in the meantime, leaving you stranded with no clutch pedal.
We do take pride in our products and they are built with the highest quality parts, thus providing customers with a product that gets the results such as this! Thanks again for your business!
04-26-2012, 10:19 PM
#16
to the OP i made the mistake that you are wanting to make yourself lol, i replaced mine with a stock master and i have the same issues still, its just over a year old and has done it since i installed it. if you want a stock one i'll gladly sell you the one right off my car and use that money for a tick haha
I will go with a Tick. When I go to sell my stock master cylinder, would I mention that the pedal fades after hard driving? Or should people already know that?another satisfied Tick Performance customer here.....my slave failed completely due to the shitty design of the stock master.
many people simply take out the stock master, do the "drill mod" (drilling out the restrictor placed in the hydraulic line so as to allow more flow), then replace the slave (if it's hosed) and put it all back together.
this is definitely an "upgrade" of sorts, and it's free to do (unless you have to replace the parts at the same time), but there's still no guarantee that it will completely solve the problem, and you have the potential to FUBAR the stock line in the process.
the Tick unit comes without the restriction in the first place, so there's no worry of voiding the warranty like you would on a stock replacement unit, and you get adjustability & much better flow, which should help prevent the problem from ever coming back again, as well as allowing you set set the engagement point exactly to your liking....welll worth the higher price, IMO.
just be prepared to possibly have to replace the clutch in the process....when i had my new master/slave installed (had a shop do it because i needed the car back on the road ASAP), they found that the clutch (as well as the flywheel & pressure plate) is on its last leg, so now i gotta get those, too. probably gonna end up with the Monster Stage 2 from Tick with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
still, 77k miles on the stock clutch after taking some abuse is not bad at all...sure, i could have probably gotten a lot more miles if i'd have driven like a granny....but if that was my intent, i'd buy a damn Prius or something....
just be sure that you get this taken care of ASAP, and/or baby it a bit until you do, so you don't end up causing the slave to fail in the meantime, leaving you stranded with no clutch pedal.
many people simply take out the stock master, do the "drill mod" (drilling out the restrictor placed in the hydraulic line so as to allow more flow), then replace the slave (if it's hosed) and put it all back together.
this is definitely an "upgrade" of sorts, and it's free to do (unless you have to replace the parts at the same time), but there's still no guarantee that it will completely solve the problem, and you have the potential to FUBAR the stock line in the process.
the Tick unit comes without the restriction in the first place, so there's no worry of voiding the warranty like you would on a stock replacement unit, and you get adjustability & much better flow, which should help prevent the problem from ever coming back again, as well as allowing you set set the engagement point exactly to your liking....welll worth the higher price, IMO.
just be prepared to possibly have to replace the clutch in the process....when i had my new master/slave installed (had a shop do it because i needed the car back on the road ASAP), they found that the clutch (as well as the flywheel & pressure plate) is on its last leg, so now i gotta get those, too. probably gonna end up with the Monster Stage 2 from Tick with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
still, 77k miles on the stock clutch after taking some abuse is not bad at all...sure, i could have probably gotten a lot more miles if i'd have driven like a granny....but if that was my intent, i'd buy a damn Prius or something....
just be sure that you get this taken care of ASAP, and/or baby it a bit until you do, so you don't end up causing the slave to fail in the meantime, leaving you stranded with no clutch pedal.
04-27-2012, 12:03 AM
#17
Launching!
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As an owner of a tick MC, it's a nice peice.
However it would be nice if a vendor rep gave more information than just 'buy our product'.
You should first flush the clutch fluid, but just buying a tick MC may not solve the problem. Especially if the car is bucking like that. You might need a new clutch assembly man. Pressure plate may be malfunctioning.
A tick MC DID NOT SOLVE MY PROBLEM, which was the clutch sticking. Is it a nice peice, and would I recommend it? Yes. But it's kindof annoying that a tick rep just says buy our product and doesn't mention you may have a more in depth problem, especially if the car is bucking.
I like tick performance but come on man do a little more for the guy than market your unit...
However it would be nice if a vendor rep gave more information than just 'buy our product'.
You should first flush the clutch fluid, but just buying a tick MC may not solve the problem. Especially if the car is bucking like that. You might need a new clutch assembly man. Pressure plate may be malfunctioning.
A tick MC DID NOT SOLVE MY PROBLEM, which was the clutch sticking. Is it a nice peice, and would I recommend it? Yes. But it's kindof annoying that a tick rep just says buy our product and doesn't mention you may have a more in depth problem, especially if the car is bucking.
I like tick performance but come on man do a little more for the guy than market your unit...
04-27-2012, 12:56 AM
#19
As an owner of a tick MC, it's a nice peice.
However it would be nice if a vendor rep gave more information than just 'buy our product'.
You should first flush the clutch fluid, but just buying a tick MC may not solve the problem. Especially if the car is bucking like that. You might need a new clutch assembly man. Pressure plate may be malfunctioning.
A tick MC DID NOT SOLVE MY PROBLEM, which was the clutch sticking. Is it a nice peice, and would I recommend it? Yes. But it's kindof annoying that a tick rep just says buy our product and doesn't mention you may have a more in depth problem, especially if the car is bucking.
I like tick performance but come on man do a little more for the guy than market your unit...
However it would be nice if a vendor rep gave more information than just 'buy our product'.
You should first flush the clutch fluid, but just buying a tick MC may not solve the problem. Especially if the car is bucking like that. You might need a new clutch assembly man. Pressure plate may be malfunctioning.
A tick MC DID NOT SOLVE MY PROBLEM, which was the clutch sticking. Is it a nice peice, and would I recommend it? Yes. But it's kindof annoying that a tick rep just says buy our product and doesn't mention you may have a more in depth problem, especially if the car is bucking.
I like tick performance but come on man do a little more for the guy than market your unit...
04-27-2012, 09:07 AM
#20
Launching!
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Thanks for the confirmation on that. I will go with a Tick. When I go to sell my stock master cylinder, would I mention that the pedal fades after hard driving? Or should people already know that?
Thanks for the info. My car has almost 84k now but the owner before me used it as a daily driver in Manhatten, so I don't think the stock clutch is hanging by a limb. I was hoping to make this one last until I had to upgrade to an LS7 after heads and cam. It's never slipped at all so I think I'll be ok.
I will go with a Tick. When I go to sell my stock master cylinder, would I mention that the pedal fades after hard driving? Or should people already know that?Thanks for the info. My car has almost 84k now but the owner before me used it as a daily driver in Manhatten, so I don't think the stock clutch is hanging by a limb. I was hoping to make this one last until I had to upgrade to an LS7 after heads and cam. It's never slipped at all so I think I'll be ok.
