jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

I had a stage 3 monster clutch installed on my car about a year ago and it always shuddered reallly really bad from a stop, the guy who installed it said it should be fine after the break in period but the problem never went away. I remember when I ordered the clutch they were on backorder because of flywheel issues, so now that I have a rear main seal leak and will have someone going in there. What should I be looking for?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I would look at your flywheel for unusual burn marks. A lot of the chattering issues stem from not torquing the flywheel correctly.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I dont think its really anything you did to make it chatter. Naturally when you do the rear main seal ake sure everything is ok with no burn marks or soaked with oil. However my buddies stage 3 has chattered since day one. It all depends on how you drive it if I jump in his car and go I chatter the hell out of it trying to take off like I normally would in a stick car. He can take off differently and get little to know chatter....

The one thing that will create chatter in a puck clutch like that is slow city driving.... His got pretty bad one day so we gave monster a call and told them what was up. The rep simple told us to beat the hell out of it, go run through the gears hard or drop the clutch in 4th gear at say 50. We did this a few times and the clutch instantly almost stopped chattering.

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Mine shudered for 500 miles on my first monster. My second one, which I have about 2000 miiles on it, squeals. I need to go beat on it. I would go be on it.

Do you slip it alot? Your really not supposed to slip this type of clutch alot.

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

I'll make sure to let my mechanic know what you guys told me to look out for. As far driving techniques I've tried every possible way of letting the clutch out with no clear answer, it will randomly not shudder here and there. I have beaten on the clutch really really hard and it hasn't made a difference. The car shakes so hard sometimes that I have to let off of the gas pedal.

jlcustomz

My stage 3 with light flywheel was pretty good when I got it, but the crankshaft freeze plug leak I thought I had fixed is leaking again. Can't blame a clutch if it has oil on it.Mine still grips pretty good considering.
crankshaft freeze plugs can be damaged during clutch changeout, although rare. My crank has a minor defect in the metal in the freeze plug area.Leak problem here is so rare, I haven't found a local gm dealer mechanic who has heard of a leak there.

EastcoastPerformance

iTrader: (9)

Ready below...
Why do you have a second one now..??
We sold those MC clutch from the beginning up until Dec 2011, and for all the reason mentioned in this thread and then some, we dropped the line because they never had any consistence, NO 2 of the same part# ever drove the same, so if you got a good one then great, if not then bad for you...

Over the past 5-6 months we have and many customers have pulled there MC out because of issues, chattering that will/would NOT stop, Noise that will NOT stop, Shuddering that will NOT stop, some may stop for a very short time if you go and BEAT on it, which one is not good for your car, two it takes life from the clutch...

So many customers that took there's out had them check at machine shops for trueness and balancing, so a few found that they needed alittle balancing but were within GM spec's, some needed alot of balancing, which MC claimed had to have been damaged in shipping, BUT was not noticable by the normal human eye test...Unitl you install it and drive it for the breakin period how are you supposed to tell if anythiing is wrong...So with that said I would HIGHLY recommend for everyone who gets a MC in to go over the shipping box and the clutch kit with a fine tooth comb..

Now for you guys who are having problems now or in the future, you will need to check the flywheel & pressure plate from MC to see if they have high or low spots, thats what we found with a Level 2 recently, and they were checked with some of the best equipment available in engineering...MC did claimed the pressure plate was damaged in shipping, but they also claimed over many emails that it had to be installer error, fluid contamination or something NOT there fault...There was a very little small mark in the paint on the pressure plate, but was it enough to cause high & low spots on the disc side of the pressure plate..?? I dont think so Vern, and it sure did NOT cause the high & low spots on the flywheel...The box was in pretty good shape with only a small hole the size of 2mm in dia only through the outside of the box...

We made sure to take alot of pics and videos...

My advise to you guys is, make sure and inspect it very very good when you receive your clutch and contact who you purchased it from asap if you have any problems or issues, also make sure and keep a paper trail in your comunications, Email is alway your freind...

Good luck...

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

I had to rebuild my motor, so while it was out i measured my disk, it was at the wear limit. Everything else was good, pressure plate and flywheel, so I bought a new disk. It is squaling again, 2000 miles. I will not be buying a monster again. I mean, from time to time, I need to slip it, this thing doesnt like it one bit. I was thinking of trying a diamond next time around or mcleod.

EastcoastPerformance

iTrader: (9)

You need a Mantic 12" Single Dual Friction w/ER2 Design...

check out the link below, it has alot of info, we have them InStock & on Special....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...hip-today.html
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SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Can you slip these? How long has the company been around? What kinda mileage have you seen on this clutch?

SKULL

iTrader: (7)

I have a level 3 in my vette. If you drive it like stock where you can slip it alot from a stop. It will chatter I know this very well lol. But if you rev it up to about 1500-2000 and leave from a light light your at a track it wont chatter. Its an extremely gabby clutch and by that I mean either its disengaged or engaged

EastcoastPerformance

iTrader: (9)

Yes, the Mantic ER2 12" Single you can slip it and drive it just like an OEM Factory Clutch, they have been around for over 2 yrs, Mantic's mother company has been in the OEM Clutch Industry for over 60yrs, thats why and one of the main reasons that Mantic went for a Great Daily driving clutch system that can handle 700hp, it drives like stock!!!
Yep, we had a bunch of customers who complained about the MC being like an on off switch...The Mantic ER2 Single will allow you to drive it like stock, roll off the line at 800rpms, NO chatter, NO Noise, NO shudder...

If anyone would like more info on the Mantic's please call me directly, I'll be glad to help anyone...thanks

Mike Yeager

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

Glad I did not go with a monster.. too many of these problems exists to be just installer errors.

SKULL

iTrader: (7)

so if all the problems you hear about come back to install error. why did you decide not to get one?

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

I think he is saying that the problem cant be installer error with all these problems. Not quite sure how you can mess up a clutch install unless the alignment tool is bent.

My car made no noise for 1500 miles, now it makes it. I need to beat on it but my motor only has 1800 miles on it so I would rather not.