Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Still grinds after Rebuild WTF....

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Old 06-24-2012, 07:49 AM
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Default Still grinds after Rebuild WTF....

I had m t56 rebuilt the other day at a local tranny shop that does a lot of work for my uncles car dealer and they always do a nice job so I figured I'd give them the work since they are a local business and I needed the car back asap. Anyway it had a slight grind if you tried to switch into 2nd gear real quick at really any rpms above 1500.

So yesterday I get the call that the car is ready and it got new fork pads synchro rings, synchro keys in 2nd and blocker rings. This comes after they charged me $150 more than they originally quoted me..... I go there and go for a ride with the tech and immediatley after a hard quick shift I felt it grind twice same as before but other times it would go in smoothly, however the problem was still somewhat there so I told them to take it back till they fixed it right. They said the synchro hub, fork, and gear looked fine but I'm not sure if I believe that maybe they just didnt want to charge me more for the right parts or figured it would be fine?

What else could be causing a quick 2nd gear grind? I can down shift it perfectly fine. I was thinking maybe shift fork or could since its an early 98 t56 have the weak bad 2nd gear in it??? I just want to know so on monday they dont blow smoke up my ***....

Last edited by 01MAROONz2890; 06-24-2012 at 07:57 AM.
Old 06-29-2012, 08:06 PM
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Unless you have X-ray vision... that T56 will have to come out get torn down again to inspect what is worn.

Make sure you put in a new pilot bearing/bushing (back of the crank where the input shaft slides into).
Old 06-29-2012, 09:10 PM
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Did they check the clutch cables for wear? If they're stretched, your input shaft could still be spinning when you go to do a quick shift. That would cause grinding and syncro wear.
Old 06-29-2012, 09:51 PM
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If all the hard parts inside are new and done correctly it could be something in the hydraulic system, especially if it's intermentent.
Old 06-29-2012, 10:11 PM
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T56's weren't hydraulic.
Old 06-29-2012, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by I Confederate I
T56's weren't hydraulic.
wow.. could have sworn i blead my hydraulics when i installed my t56? thanks for correcting all of us.
Old 06-30-2012, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by I Confederate I
Did they check the clutch cables for wear? If they're stretched, your input shaft could still be spinning when you go to do a quick shift. That would cause grinding and syncro wear.

Originally Posted by I Confederate I
T56's weren't hydraulic.

Originally Posted by got-a-ls1
wow.. could have sworn i blead my hydraulics when i installed my t56? thanks for correcting all of us.
Old 06-30-2012, 12:33 AM
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who did the work,??
Old 06-30-2012, 01:46 AM
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I can't believe I mixed up a T-56 with a T-5. I really shouldn't post when I'm drinking. My apologies gentlemen.
Old 06-30-2012, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by got-a-ls1
wow.. could have sworn i blead my hydraulics when i installed my t56? thanks for correcting all of us.
This made me LOL
Old 06-30-2012, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gnx7
Unless you have X-ray vision... that T56 will have to come out get torn down again to inspect what is worn.

Make sure you put in a new pilot bearing/bushing (back of the crank where the input shaft slides into).
Pilot bearing and bushing have around 200 miles on them along with a new stock clutch so I think im ok there but I will double check that and also measure for a shim when the tranny comes back out....
Originally Posted by BackNBlue
If all the hard parts inside are new and done correctly it could be something in the hydraulic system, especially if it's intermentent.
Well the synchros were supposedly replaced by this shop but judging from what I've now been hearing about them from local people that may not have even been done. They seem to have a reputation now for doing low quality work ad even putting in used parts. Which is a shame because when I had work done by them a few years ago they were very good, which is why I didnt bother to ask around this time... However i should also not that I NEVER had issues downshifting, ever! The only problem was the 1-2 upshift, now I have grinding sometimes if I try to downshift into 3rd or 2nd quickly.If I have the clutch pushed all the way and try to make a quick downshift I will get a grind going in...

Anyway only the synchros blockers and fork pads were "replaced" so if the gear or hub has some wear it may be causing my issue. The problem gets much quieter as it warms up but to correct the above its not really intermittent I can make it grind on every 1-2 shift if I shift fast enough. Also it only does it on that gear I can hit 2-3 and 3-4 as hard as I want and it glides right in. It has a tick M/C in it, the car can be revved up with the clutch in and it doesnt move and the clutch engages about 1/2 way out, so i know its getting full disengement....

Correct me if I'm wrong guys but the fact that I know it is disengaging and it only does it in really 1 gear says tranny doesnt it?

On Mon I'm going to rip it back out and take superior transmission in Boca Raton who is partnered with Masport Tuning and have the go through it again.If anyone has had work done by them post up. talked with Allan and he seems like a great guy. This time to ensure no issues I'm having the 2nd gear and synchro hub replaced just to be on the safe side. The other shop said it was fine but obviously either they messed up the synchros or the gear and hub have some small wear on them...
Old 06-30-2012, 07:49 PM
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It sucks that you can't trust the work that was done. That being the case I would absolutely take it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion. I am by no means an expert on T56's but I had one rebuilt a few years ago and it still had some issues but they were not in the gearbox itself. Once we installed a new flywheel, clutch kit, master and slave cylinder all the issues went away. I had them all done at the same time so I am not sure which piece was the problem. I am not trying to suggest you change all of those things. I only want to point out that the issue may be outside the gearbox itself that was rebuilt.
Old 07-01-2012, 09:11 AM
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Ya I know it does really suck but oh well. The thing is the clutch kit is a stock gm ls6 clutch, the slave is gm and the mc is a tick all have less than 200 miles on them so i wouldn't think its a worn out clutch. However being that the slave has a warranty on it I'll probably swap it out when the tranny comes back out just to be safe. Either way it has to come back out because I never used to have downshifting issues and since the other "shop" rebuilt it I have have downshifting issues in 2nd and 3rd.

The car was just converted to a 6spd from an auto so everything was new and its had this issue since then. I thought that maybe the clutch was having a ahrd time relesing on the first shift but by the 2nd and third shift was easier. So i launched the car (very carefully in 3rd) and thus my 3-4 shift was my first shift and I could throw it into 4th as fast as I wanted with no issues.

Just wondering but what kind of problems were you having with yours?

ok guys just thought I'd update and ask one more question lol. got the transmission to the guys at superior transmissions up in boca and they tore it down thurs night and told me to come up and look at it on friday so here's how that went when we were looking over the parts.

the other shop told me they installed new blocker rings, keys and fork pads. well in short they didnt install fork pads as some were broken or worn, and so far we're not to sure if they installs new keys and blocker rings as they dont look really used but its hard to tell if they're new. the other shop also never reinstalled the magnets in the base of the trans so I had metal dust going through my transmission while i was driving it. there also seemed to be a lot of metallic dust in the transmission especially because i havent even driven it 100 miles after the other shop "rebuilt" it.

jon at superior showed me all the syncro hubs and gears and 2nd gear which originally had the problem has burrs on the hub and gear from 2nd. this is what we think was causing the quick grind going into 2nd, the slider was having trouble because the burs were not allowing it to go in. anyone confirm that? as of now im playing it safe and going with a new slider and gear.



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