What master should I use with a Monster level 3 clutch
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern RI
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So, I'm sure there is already someone out there who's asked the same question.. Car shifts like molases above 4000 especially when warmed up. Bought it with a level 3 monster clutch which is way overkill for the car, however, it's in there and i'm leaving well enough alone. I know it must require a larger master because It doesn't seem to disengage when shifting fast, that and it lets out at the floor. I've tried bleeding it several times both with a mityvac and traditionally with no relief. I'm thinking of trying the drill mod, but pretty sure I'm still going to be in the same boat with where the clutch lets out, other than it will not be quite as slow. I hear good things about the tick master, however, the ram is much cheaper. Should i just suck it up and spend the money, or would the ram suffice in my application?
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My brother (Badamn) has a stock master cylinder with drill mod with his Monster stage 2 and can bang gears at redline. There was also a thread a while back where Monster had their stage 3 in a car with the stock master and took it to the drag strip and had no troubles. Sounds to me like something might be wrong.
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern RI
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
it could be possible something's messed up. probably worth trying the cheapest of all fixes first.. drill mod. trans upshifts and downshifts beautifully, just hard up high. The tick master looks like it's designed to move a little more fluid for that purpose due to the 12" aftermarket clutches.. It's such a bummer, car sticks to the ground great, pulls real hard, then you have to take a 1 second break to yawn and shift, then hammer it again. embarassing lol
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's the trouble my brother was having with his stock clutch and the problem I have now with my stock clutch. We could floor it and shift at 4500k and it would be fine. Shift at any higher rpm and the pedal would start getting really soft and spongey and it would be hard to get it into gear, usually would even lock you out of gear until you pumped the pedal and dropped the rpms.
We replaced the slave cylinders, replaced the master cylinders, then did the drill mods on the masters. None of it changed anything for either of us. He finally saved up and bought the Monster stage 2 clutch and he was golden. He can bang through all the gears over and over at red line and hasn't missed a shift yet. That's why I'm thinking you may want to check some other stuff before just throwing a $300 master cylinder at it. Kinda stinks that you bought the car with the clutch already installed because you have no clue how it was installed, how it was treated, how many miles are on it ect...
We replaced the slave cylinders, replaced the master cylinders, then did the drill mods on the masters. None of it changed anything for either of us. He finally saved up and bought the Monster stage 2 clutch and he was golden. He can bang through all the gears over and over at red line and hasn't missed a shift yet. That's why I'm thinking you may want to check some other stuff before just throwing a $300 master cylinder at it. Kinda stinks that you bought the car with the clutch already installed because you have no clue how it was installed, how it was treated, how many miles are on it ect...
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree its most likely the master. If you still had the stock clutch then it could be the pressure plate getting weak and causing shifting issues. Have you verified its a monster stage 3? They are very good clutches but also stiff so if your master is a little tired it would show itself as you describe. And trust me if your going to get a new master go with the tick, pedal will be more positive and you can adjust to here you like it, the ram is just a modified stock unit made to be adjustable not worth it imo
Trending Topics
#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern RI
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got the recipts with the car for the stage 3, it was like 6 700 bucks. It was done a year before i got it (1200) miles. Pedal's always hard, actually, a little too hard if you ask me. I think it's a volume issue as well. The tech from Slowhawk that i spoke with said that it requires a larger volume from the master. I think between all the insight from you guys and the research i've done, it's probably safe to say that I need to bite the bullet. Just for giggles though, I'm going to try out the drill mod tomorrow, it's free and costs me an hour of my time.. if it doesn't help, then no question, i'm just going to get one so I can bang gears before the snow flies. Can I just say, God damn I love driving this thing!!
#10
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern RI
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, Looks pretty straight foreward. Hoping I can get the master lined back up like he did first try. It's tight under there. I'll keep you posted
#11
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a Tick M/C with my Monster stg 3 ,before with the stock M/C & drill mod it was a lil stiff but not bad & shifted great at any RPM.
I had an ear break on the GM M/C & had to replace so I upgraded to the Tick M/C due to all the great threads & reviews.......well for me I do not like it ,my pedal is WAY stiffer than before & I will be goin back to the GM M/C with the drill mod as it worked GREAT with alot softer/easier pedal for 7 yrs.
I had an ear break on the GM M/C & had to replace so I upgraded to the Tick M/C due to all the great threads & reviews.......well for me I do not like it ,my pedal is WAY stiffer than before & I will be goin back to the GM M/C with the drill mod as it worked GREAT with alot softer/easier pedal for 7 yrs.
#12
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a Tick M/C with my Monster stg 3 ,before with the stock M/C & drill mod it was a lil stiff but not bad & shifted great at any RPM.
I had an ear break on the GM M/C & had to replace so I upgraded to the Tick M/C due to all the great threads & reviews.......well for me I do not like it ,my pedal is WAY stiffer than before & I will be goin back to the GM M/C with the drill mod as it worked GREAT with alot softer/easier pedal for 7 yrs.
I had an ear break on the GM M/C & had to replace so I upgraded to the Tick M/C due to all the great threads & reviews.......well for me I do not like it ,my pedal is WAY stiffer than before & I will be goin back to the GM M/C with the drill mod as it worked GREAT with alot softer/easier pedal for 7 yrs.
I would like to ask, other than the pedal effort did it perform the way it was advertised and described?
#14
Launching!
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've got a monster level 2 with a tick MC...both work well. clutch pedal is def. heavier but I don't care about that
jlong, although it sounds like a master cyl. issue...i would not rule out transmission component wear. Is it hard to shift over 4k in all gears?
jlong, although it sounds like a master cyl. issue...i would not rule out transmission component wear. Is it hard to shift over 4k in all gears?
#16
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern RI
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
when the car's cold, i can shift it faster and higher. With the trans hot, i have to shift like a granny over 4500. I still haven't had any free time to play with it. Better do it soon before I run out of good weather!
#17
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern RI
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
car does need street drivability, so the pedal effort will be a pain, however, the difference in volume makes sense. I Believe it's got a 12" clutch which would require more fluid movement than a factory clutch
#19
12 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
had similar problems, I run the Stage 3 monster with GM master. Ended up the Slave was on it's way out, making high rpm shifts nearly impossible. I had the new slave in within 45min and solved my problem.
NOTE: Make sure where the master attaches to the pedal, that the clip and bushings are in correctly. if not, you'll have some slop also causing similar issues
NOTE: Make sure where the master attaches to the pedal, that the clip and bushings are in correctly. if not, you'll have some slop also causing similar issues
#20
TECH Resident
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My tick master is awesome... if you want a soft pedal go drive a honda
i personally like to be able to feel my clutch and not have to worry about breaking it.. the Tick does just that.
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)