Bad Clutch or pulley or belt slip?
11-22-2012, 10:16 PM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
Bad Clutch or pulley or belt slip? Alright so my newest problem started about a week ago. I have 2 pulleys that have been squeeking and driving me nuts. AC idler pulley and idler pulley and I have been needing to replace them. I have just been putting wd40 on them to quiet them down until I can replace them. Now as of last week I am having extreme difficulty going into 1st gear. Never had this issue before. When driving my m6, when I hit the gas rpms jump up like they should but my ride will not go into gear with clutch being released until I reach 3500 rpms. If I press the gas and hold it down and literally have to give it like 5 seconds to move after the clutch has been released. The other gears seem to be ok but there is like a delay when I hit the gas. Lets say I am slowing down at a red light and then the light just turns green so I press the gas again. It feels like the belt is spinning but not catching and not giving me the instant speed. Can it be the belt being worn or bad pulley. Worse case scenario would be a bad clutch but there is only around 35k since the master cyclinder was replaced any ideas?
11-23-2012, 12:04 AM
#2
Launching!
Thread Starter
I really can't afford a new clutch right now and don't think it would of went bad especially considering master cyclinder was replaced not too long ago. Where to start ?
11-23-2012, 10:46 AM
#3
Moving to the Manual Transmission section. It sounds to me that your clutch is probably going out. How many miles are on it? Did you put on a new clutch with your new M/C?
BTW - WD40 is probably of the worst things you can put on the squeaking pulleys. It is a penetrating lubricant, which will dissolve the good heavier grease that you need to lube the pulleys. In the end, when that WD40 wears out, (it won't take long since its a lighter lubricant) you'll end up with totally dry bearings.
If you aren't ready to invest in new pulleys, you might check out this thread, which will show you how to properly re-lube the ones you have: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...r-pulleys.html
BTW - WD40 is probably of the worst things you can put on the squeaking pulleys. It is a penetrating lubricant, which will dissolve the good heavier grease that you need to lube the pulleys. In the end, when that WD40 wears out, (it won't take long since its a lighter lubricant) you'll end up with totally dry bearings.
If you aren't ready to invest in new pulleys, you might check out this thread, which will show you how to properly re-lube the ones you have: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...r-pulleys.html
11-23-2012, 11:50 AM
#4
Launching!
Thread Starter
I didn't replace my clutch myself. I had a shop do it approx 30k ago. Its hard for me to believe its my clutch it really is. I feel like a pulley is stuck or just not working properly. I have to pop it into gear it shifts just at high rpms. If it is the clutch then how can i go about doing this affordably.
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11-23-2012, 10:20 PM
#10
Launching!
Thread Starter
Here Guys I made a video of exactly whats going on as I drove home from work. Tell me what you think. See how high my rpms have to go before it lets me get into first gear. Definetly need as much help as I can get. Figured the video would give you guys a better idea. I'll never use wd40 ever again lol although that is not what I think my issue is.
Last edited by 98FoRmULa_BiRd; 11-23-2012 at 11:21 PM.
11-23-2012, 11:40 PM
#12
When I watch the video, I feel like I think I would feel if I was driving drunk... in the rain. lol (It's hard to see what's going.)
Is your problem only with downshifting? Is the problem that you have to get the RPMs up before you hit the clutch and shift?
Is your problem only with downshifting? Is the problem that you have to get the RPMs up before you hit the clutch and shift?
11-24-2012, 12:16 AM
#14
Swapping the clutch for an LS7 with flywheel can be done for under $500 IF you do it yourself. It's really not all that bad. I did it in my RX-7 solo with two jack stands, a pair of ramps and one 2 ton jack. The hardest part was the pilot bearing because I couldn't find a puller on island small enough.
When you are having difficulty getting into gear and it's because the clutch isn't disengaging this can cause a lot of wear on the syncro.
When you are having difficulty getting into gear and it's because the clutch isn't disengaging this can cause a lot of wear on the syncro.
11-24-2012, 12:25 AM
#15
Launching!
Thread Starter
I can swing $500 for the clutch. I just can't afford or don't know if I am ready to be able to afford the labor. I have no technical skills or know how to accomplish this on my own. I wish I did and to make matters worse, I don't have a garage I can work in where I live because I am in the city. The labor is whats going to kill me. I am considering going with the ls7 because I doubt i can afford anything else. On ebay there is alot of vendors that have kits for the ls1 for like $350 but I don't know if those brands can be trusted.
11-24-2012, 01:19 AM
#16
Launching!
Thread Starter
11-24-2012, 10:50 AM
#17
I can swing $500 for the clutch. I just can't afford or don't know if I am ready to be able to afford the labor. I have no technical skills or know how to accomplish this on my own. I wish I did and to make matters worse, I don't have a garage I can work in where I live because I am in the city. The labor is whats going to kill me. I am considering going with the ls7 because I doubt i can afford anything else. On ebay there is alot of vendors that have kits for the ls1 for like $350 but I don't know if those brands can be trusted.
If you haven't been driving like a maniac and their installation could be at fault, maybe they will cut you a deal on the fix?
I had a shop install a clutch and hydraulics for me and when the slave went bad in the first 100 miles, they dropped the trans and reinstalled it for free. (Even though it was a part failure - actually no-one really knows if it was the part or if they f'd it up. I didn't probe further with a forensic investigation of the part because they were so accommodating.) All I had to pay for was the parts and the installation labor of the part.
Maybe your trans shop will help you out or be accommodating if its something they might have screwed up?
11-24-2012, 12:06 PM
#18
Launching!
Thread Starter
Only problem is I moved since then. I used to live upstate in the Hudson Valley and moved down to Queens. It would be more of a hassle to go back up there with my car then it would do just repair it and thats to say if it made it all the way.
11-25-2012, 09:23 AM
#19
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I didn't replace my clutch myself. I had a shop do it approx 30k ago. Its hard for me to believe its my clutch it really is. I feel like a pulley is stuck or just not working properly. I have to pop it into gear it shifts just at high rpms. If it is the clutch then how can i go about doing this affordably.
