Bad98SS

Im taking my t56 out to replace some stuff. I have all the bolts off the bell housing to the block. and its ready to come out. what is the best way of pulling the shaft out of the back of the engine? and is there any bolts on top of the bell housing? i counted 6.
thanks

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Unbolt the trans from the bellhousing first and pull the trans out by itself. Once its all unbolted and the slave is disconnected it should just slide out, it might take some rocking back and forth.

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Are you using a transmission jack? Are you doing it on the ground or a lift?

Assuming your on jack stands and using a transmission jack...

You didnt mention some things, so im going to start from the beginning.

-Make sure the center console is pulled out, and the shifter is removed. Let me know if you need help doing this. There are also several plugs that need to be undone on the top drivers side of the transmission. And one on the passangers side. Also make sure the line from the master cyl to the slave cyl is disconnected. You may have to open the slave cyl to get it free. (#11mm socket on a small ratchet)

-Make sure the drive shaft is disconnected.

-Once the transmission is supported you can remove the tranmssion brace.

-Undo the Transmission to Bell housing bolts. (15mm)

-Pull the transmission straight back as far as you can. If it feels like it wont move at all, you missed a bolt. It will take some work to get the transmission down, without hitting the clutch and without hitting the bell housing. Keep an eye out for any forgotten plugs, and to make sure nothing is getting caught. Some people like to remove the slave to make it easier if you dont have enough room... but ive never had to. (Its 2 10mm bolts)

-Once the transmission is down you can remove the bellhousing to block bolts. (13mm)

-From here its easy to remove the pressure pate (watch for the clutch plate, it may fall) and the flywheel. While your here you should replace the rear main seal, they are fairly cheap.

Hope that helps!

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

To add to that list before you can pull the transmission back any you have to remove the torque arm. I usually just unbolt the top of the clamshell (14mm) on side of the trans and let the TA rotate up and rest on the trans tunnel

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Thanks bigj! I forget because mine mounts to the tranny tunnel!

BLU69Z

trying to get tran out using haynes manual and it said to pull out at bell housing.On older 4spd trans you just pulled shifter and linkage, drive shaft cross member 4 bolts and it was out.I am helping my son pull this apart and we are trying to keep as much intact as possible. We are to the point were every thing is out except dropping it out.Here is the problem,We did not drop exhaust out is that a mistake?This has kooks long tubes and off road y pipe and it is a pain in the a$$ to seperate any help would be appreciated. Can anyone tell me how many bolts on trans and bell housing? We pulled 6 out of bell housing to block are their any more? How many in trans to bell housing? That is our next plan is to seperate the trans from bell housing.The car is on jack stands and we are using floor jack to try and pull out trans.

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Dropping the exhaust is optional, and depends if its in your way. If it comes close to the trans then you will probably have to... if you think you have enough space... you might be ok.

I would remove the tans w/out the bell housing. 1. It requires less space to move the tranny around, and is much easier. 2. you can see the trans detatching and make sure the alignment is ok... with the bell housing on you cant see. 3. Your going to have to pull them apart to re-install the transmission any way, so its not going to save you any time.


Transmission to bell housing bolts: 8 bolts 15mm (black)
Bell housing to block: 6 bolts 13mm (silver)

This may help too:
Transmission:

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Oh, and more helpful advice:

-The bolts on the transmission to the bell housing can be a PITA to get to... use several long extensions (needs to be longer then the transmission) to be able to reach it from the BACK of the transmission. I find that to be the best option.

-DO NOT LET THE TRANSMISSION HANG ATTACHED TO THE MOTOR WITH NO SUPPORT. Your likely to crack the oil pressure sensor on the back of the motor and or cause damage to the back of the intake, from hitting the firewall.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

I'm just going to add a minor tip, if you pull the driveshaft out without draining the transmission fluid you'll have a mess on your hands! It'd be easy to drain it first (you probably already have), just wanted to save you some clean up!

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Yes and no with the drive shaft removal... If your able to keep the transmission level, it wont spill any fluid.

BLU69Z

Got it out. Thanks for all the advice it helps alot.Some of the bolts on the top were a pain,long extensions for sure.Thanks again!

blksun1

Any advice on a bell housing that wont come off??? All the bolts are off but the thing wont come off. I had a real hard time getting the tranny out because of rust built up on the 2 "pins" from the bell housing to the tranny!

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

There are two big *** dowels on on the motor, that sit into the bell. They are located on either side of the block, roughly the 3 and 9 o'clock positions IIRC. They can be a real PITA ESPECIALLY if you try to remove the trans and bell at the same time.

I think the last time i had an issue with this (Ive dropped a few t56s) i just worked the bell off with a small screwdriver. Worked around the bell, being as gentle as possible to the surfaces. Upon reassembly, anti-sieze on those bastards seemed to help when i pulled it again later.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

How to check whether I've cracked my oil pressure sensor? I think I might have let the transmission hang attached with no support...