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Spec super twin bites the dust @900whp

Old 04-09-2013, 02:59 PM
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Default Spec super twin bites the dust @900whp

This is really getting old.. So old it's not even funny, i bought my clutch used from a friend in really good condition, now after about a year of use @600-700whp, and with the new 900whp power it starts to slip like mad as soon as it sees any power. My set up:
Lq9 block
Mcleod steel flywheel
Tick master
Gm slave
Stock t56

Clutch pedal used to disengage fully when fully depressed and engage fully at about 1 inch from pedal rest at the top , and would some times not disengage fully when pushed in all the way. I have yet to check rear main seal but i can't see any oil dripping from between trans and engine... Tried to adjust master and it only changed pedal travel, nothing else...

My question is:
1-Is there a fix for this that doesn't involve buying a new clutch?
2-what would be a good clutch for my power level? (dyno'd 904whp with clutch slipping) ofcourse this is a street strip car with a/c , so i drive it regularly.
Old 04-09-2013, 04:12 PM
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If you get a new clutch check out Monster Clutches. They have twin and triple disc clutches available now.
Old 04-09-2013, 04:45 PM
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Why yes, yes we do

Give me a call, I have something that will hold 1000-1500 hp/tq
Old 04-10-2013, 10:34 AM
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go with a monster no doubt. great customer service and better clutches. i will be using one of their twins this season with about the same power levels
Old 04-10-2013, 12:38 PM
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Every one seems to be skipping my first question:
1-is there a fix for this that doesn't involve 1500+$?
Old 04-10-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by black-sinner
Every one seems to be skipping my first question:
1-is there a fix for this that doesn't involve 1500+$?
I wouldn't think so. In my experience once a clutch is slipping it's toast.
Old 04-10-2013, 12:45 PM
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If its already slipping, you cant deglaze a clutch.Sound like maybe a pressure plate issue but either way its coming out. Spec clutches and there customer service are junk, and leave alot to be desired.After issues i have had in the past i will never buy a spec clutch again. I have had 2 monster clutches, a stage 3 and 4 single disc and liked them both. I will hopefully soon be going twin turbo on my vette and will be using one of monsters new triple or dual disc clutches. Go monster.
Old 04-12-2013, 11:03 AM
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What trim is the Spec clutch? What power did your friend make with it?

Not all Super Twins are created equal. Depending on the trim level you got, it may not even be rated to hold your power level.

I'm running a Super twin (SS trim) and I couldn't be happier. No shimming, no balancing, no problems so far. It arrived with a piece that was damaged in shipping and was replaced for free within a few days. Maybe I got lucky, but my experience with them has been pleasant despite some of the horror stories I've read about.
Old 04-12-2013, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MX6.0
What trim is the Spec clutch? What power did your friend make with it?

Not all Super Twins are created equal. Depending on the trim level you got, it may not even be rated to hold your power level.

I'm running a Super twin (SS trim) and I couldn't be happier. No shimming, no balancing, no problems so far. It arrived with a piece that was damaged in shipping and was replaced for free within a few days. Maybe I got lucky, but my experience with them has been pleasant despite some of the horror stories I've read about.
I'm not sure what trim but my friend made 850+whp with it , he reported no issues and said it was rated for 1500+tq , and it seemed to hold fine at 700whp on my car, until i cranked the boost and made900whp then it started slipping a little and then grip (from 5k rpm- 5500 rpm) we mistook that as wheel spin on the dyno, but on the. Street after 4k rpm it wasn't holding ****.

His car was a c6, mine is a '99 camaro
Old 04-14-2013, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by black-sinner
This is really getting old.. So old it's not even funny, i bought my clutch used from a friend in really good condition, now after about a year of use @600-700whp, and with the new 900whp power it starts to slip like mad as soon as it sees any power. My set up:
Lq9 block
Mcleod steel flywheel
Tick master
Gm slave
Stock t56

Clutch pedal used to disengage fully when fully depressed and engage fully at about 1 inch from pedal rest at the top , and would some times not disengage fully when pushed in all the way. I have yet to check rear main seal but i can't see any oil dripping from between trans and engine... Tried to adjust master and it only changed pedal travel, nothing else...

My question is:
1-Is there a fix for this that doesn't involve buying a new clutch?
2-what would be a good clutch for my power level? (dyno'd 904whp with clutch slipping) ofcourse this is a street strip car with a/c , so i drive it regularly.
The fact engagement is inconsistent means there has to be a problem, either installation or hydraulic.

you need to make sure the master is adjusted such that fluid can always make it's way back into the reservoir when you release the pedal, and fluid isnt trapped holding the clutch partially open, which would make it slip.

Ive no idea what the obsession is with adjustable master cylinders, or indeed what they proclaim to achieve...but they do offer potential for problems.

Back it right off so that when the pedal is high, the master is full retracted, and start from there.
Hydraulic systems naturally take up any slack anyway, so if any adjustment is required it would only be very small.

And ideally, if you could find a way to view inside the BH and check the release bearing isnt pushing on the clutch, it would be helpful. Either drill a small hole, or try and get a camera in there.
Old 04-14-2013, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
The fact engagement is inconsistent means there has to be a problem, either installation or hydraulic.

you need to make sure the master is adjusted such that fluid can always make it's way back into the reservoir when you release the pedal, and fluid isnt trapped holding the clutch partially open, which would make it slip.

Ive no idea what the obsession is with adjustable master cylinders, or indeed what they proclaim to achieve...but they do offer potential for problems.

Back it right off so that when the pedal is high, the master is full retracted, and start from there.
Hydraulic systems naturally take up any slack anyway, so if any adjustment is required it would only be very small.

And ideally, if you could find a way to view inside the BH and check the release bearing isnt pushing on the clutch, it would be helpful. Either drill a small hole, or try and get a camera in there.
Thats a good idea... Why didn't i think of that, i'll try it once i get some free time...
Old 05-19-2013, 04:38 PM
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Found the problem... Friction discs were installed the other way around... Flipped them over, cleaned and scuffed the floater and pressure plates... New slave cylinder, new clutch oil, now bites like it should... Clutch engagement is on top of pedal travel nothing befor that...


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