Clutch problems...Please help
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Clutch problems...Please help
95 M6... This car is supposed to have a new clutch (previous owner had a shop install it)..however;
the clutch engages at 7/8 of the way out..... mild slip from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration.. no burnt clutch smell. The shop I took it to said it was most likely an incorrectly sized throw out bearing??? (thats a guess) I pulled the slave and bled it, no change, no change when its warm either...... Please help,,,
the clutch engages at 7/8 of the way out..... mild slip from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration.. no burnt clutch smell. The shop I took it to said it was most likely an incorrectly sized throw out bearing??? (thats a guess) I pulled the slave and bled it, no change, no change when its warm either...... Please help,,,
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Throw out bearings are one size...get a new shop. They may have been referencing the slave... some clutch set ups ask for a shimmed slave...because they don't fit. Improper shimming would result in an incomplete release , not slip...again , get a new shop.
Slip is due to poor clamp load. If the disc is glazed or excessively worn, you can expect slipping. Sounds like you need a new disc(at least). It is abetter Idea to get a disc , pressure plate & flywheel designed to work together( as a set).
Slip is due to poor clamp load. If the disc is glazed or excessively worn, you can expect slipping. Sounds like you need a new disc(at least). It is abetter Idea to get a disc , pressure plate & flywheel designed to work together( as a set).
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Throw out bearings are one size...get a new shop. They may have been referencing the slave... some clutch set ups ask for a shimmed slave...because they don't fit. Improper shimming would result in an incomplete release , not slip...again , get a new shop.
Slip is due to poor clamp load. If the disc is glazed or excessively worn, you can expect slipping. Sounds like you need a new disc(at least). It is abetter Idea to get a disc , pressure plate & flywheel designed to work together( as a set).
Slip is due to poor clamp load. If the disc is glazed or excessively worn, you can expect slipping. Sounds like you need a new disc(at least). It is abetter Idea to get a disc , pressure plate & flywheel designed to work together( as a set).
Sounds like you could have a few different issues...air in the system, bad master/slave, improper shimming, or a glazed clutch set. No way to really know until you take things apart and look.
How does it shift with the car off?
#4
Firefighter, I am not aware of any LT1 based kits the utilize a shim. That being said it is doubtful that shimming is the cause of your issue. There are a few things I would check to begin. Do you have paperwork showing that a new clutch was actually installed? If not, the you may be experiencing a clutch that is simply worn out. You should also make sure that the fork is in good condition and that the pivot-ball is the correct one for this car. I have seen people fit the incorrect pivot-ball/stud and this will cause incorrect geometry. Check these things first and then let us know what you find. Thanks!
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Thanks guys! The car shifts great. I think the slipping is because the clutch takes a second to disengage cause its so far out. Which would make sense with air in the lines except the trans shop said if it were air it would be engaging at the floor? (Not sure that makes whence to me either)
I'm not to savvy on clutch components; would I have to drop the trans to check the pivot ball and also how do I know if it's the correct one?
Thanks alot guys!!!
Ryan
I'm not to savvy on clutch components; would I have to drop the trans to check the pivot ball and also how do I know if it's the correct one?
Thanks alot guys!!!
Ryan
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Also im about 99% sure there is no shimming on the slave. I pulled the slave and I didn't see any way it could be shimmed. I might replace the slave since that is the cheapest easiest way to start if you guys think it might be the problem. Not sure pulling the clutch is in my scope of mechanical aptitude.
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Per this comment:
and that the pivot-ball is the correct one for this car.
LT1 s don't have a pivot ball....they have a T stud... the operation of this clutch is oposite of LS1s. It is a "pull" clutch.
and that the pivot-ball is the correct one for this car.
LT1 s don't have a pivot ball....they have a T stud... the operation of this clutch is oposite of LS1s. It is a "pull" clutch.
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So what does it being a pull clutch change? Could it still be air problem, or slave problem? I would really hate to drop this thing if I don't have to,...
Thanks for the help guys...
Thanks for the help guys...
#9
Calhoon, An LS car doesn't have a pivot ball either...it uses a concentric slave cylinder. I was referencing the point of pivot for the fork either way...lol.
Firefighter, you are much more likely to have wear on the clutch disc that is leading to this. As the disc thins it will cause engagement to raise relative to pedal travel. Slave related issues will typically lead to a pedal that is lower, not higher.
Firefighter, you are much more likely to have wear on the clutch disc that is leading to this. As the disc thins it will cause engagement to raise relative to pedal travel. Slave related issues will typically lead to a pedal that is lower, not higher.
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Calhoon, An LS car doesn't have a pivot ball either...it uses a concentric slave cylinder. I was referencing the point of pivot for the fork either way...lol.
Firefighter, you are much more likely to have wear on the clutch disc that is leading to this. As the disc thins it will cause engagement to raise relative to pedal travel. Slave related issues will typically lead to a pedal that is lower, not higher.
Firefighter, you are much more likely to have wear on the clutch disc that is leading to this. As the disc thins it will cause engagement to raise relative to pedal travel. Slave related issues will typically lead to a pedal that is lower, not higher.