transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I have a gm clutch master in my t/a . I removed the master to do the drill mod.I did a bench bleed before I re- installed the master. I noticed the clutch pedal seems a little spongy on the first inch of travel from the top.
I have seen some posts about bleeding just the spongy part. I am confused about how to bleed this out. Do I open the bleeder than push the clutch down an inch than close it? Exactly how do I do this. Can someone explain it to me?

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I just went through this a few nights ago. I got a good solid firm pedal but the top 1/2 inch was squishy. I spent a LONG time just bleeding the squishy part just like you explained. Put slight pressure on the pedal, crack the bleeder, push down the pedal an inch, close the bleeder right when I got to an inch, slowly pull the pedal back up to the top from that inch. When I pulled it up I could hear the fluid getting sucked into the master from the fluid resavior but could never get rid of that little half inch at the top.

I looked up at the master cyclinder under the dash at the part where the rod slides into and out of the master and noticed if I wiggled the pedal up and down that half inch while watching, the little rubber diaphram right where the rod goes in to the master kinda flexes a bit up and down as the rod goes in and out. Seeing this I assumed with the stock master there must be a little variance/tolerance part there that is never going to let your pedal get 100% firm all the way to the very top. I think if you have a Tick Master you can get rid of the top little squishy portion, but not with the stock master.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I've always done it like I was bleeding the brakes. pump the clutch pedal a few times and hold it down slowly open the bleeder then close pump clutch again and repeat until all the air is out of the system. You are bleeding from the screw off the top of the slave cylander?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

transwiz, Are you having any difficulty shifting gears or does the pedal ever stick to the floor?

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I did the drill mod because the pedal was dropping under hard acceleration. I installed another stock master and it didn't work properly so I removed it and put my original back in. I bench bleed it before I installed it. It's a little hard to get in gear sometimes when I race it but basically ok.I have read a lot of posts about the clutch master problems.
I purchased a tick master around Christmas time and have not installed it. I have read lots of posts about the tick. I was thinking that I might not like the fact that everyone says that they release closer to the floor.Also they are really hard to install and the bleeding is really a hassle. So I have been thinking about the whole thing.I will probably have to install the tick at some point.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Reason your clutch pedal is dropping under acceleration is most likely your LS6 stock gm self adjusting pressure plate. Makes the clutch pedal go limp and doesn't allow the clutch disc to be fully released at high rpms like when you race.

If you have the tick master I'd install it and see if you can adjust it far enough to push the throw out bearing a little farther than the stock master can and perhaps fix your high rpm shifting woes and limp pedal. If it doesn't make it better I'd spring for a monster clutch which has a heavy duty pressure plate that is non self adjusting. At that point you'd have one of the best shifting combos out there.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

The SAC plate can in fact cause unusual pedal and release but it is unlikely that the Tick master is going to fix an issue that is related to the plate effectively collapsing as a result of RPM. That being said, you could very well be having an issue within the hydraulic system that is causing the pedal to drop, as temps increase and fluid aeration occurs. You have the Tick, and they work well, so I suggest giving it a try. Keep in mind that the Tick Master is adjustable. Flush and refill the system when you do this and see what the results are. Let us know if the issue continues and we can provide more trouble shooting. Thanks!

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

You might also want to get a remote bleeder, which is essentially a hydraulic hose that replaces the bleeder on the slave and then allows you to position the bleeder in an easier-to-reach spot. After that, get a Mighty Vac and bleed your clutch with that. You will be amazed at the time you save with it.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the feedback 1981TA.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Do you have to remove the transmission to install the remote bleeder?remote bleeder by tick or?

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Someone must know this one.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

It is easy to install the remote bleeder with the trans removed, and nearly impossible to put one on with the trans installed.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I would say you would have to remove the clutch to install a remote bleeder. You can also using a better grade of fluid that won't boil as easily.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

You don't have the pull the clutch, but it is much easier if you pull the transmission. Of course, you can also cut the trans tunnel and do it that way...but then you have a hole in your trans tunnel!