First to Second grinding
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 15
From: Fredonia,WI
First to Second grinding Hopefully a M6 guru can troubleshoot my recent issue. Just got the car out
about a week ago after not driving it for a few months. While beating the ****
outta it after warming up, I missed on a 1-2 pull and just dismissed it as re-
learning the speed and timing of shifting...having not drove it in a while. So
yesterday I took it to the track and missed again on 2 of my 3 passes...which
when you're racing someone you quickly try to clutch again and pull the shift
er harder. Well needless to say I think something is trashed internally as it
now grinds going into second at any rpm. It feels to me that a shifter fork is
bent or something as the shifter just feels like it's not moving the gears far
enough to engage. The fluid was a little dirty and I soaked it up with a rag
and put some new stuff in the reservoir. The clutch is all stock 24k miles and
I'm not making a ton of power...380ish rw. At this point if I'm gonna have to
drop the whole rear IRS...well then I may as well upgrade the torque tube
joints, clutch, master cylinder and possibly the rear axles. This will be a win-
ter project as I've never undertook something like this. BTW the clutch pedal
feels fine and engages normal as usual and doesn't seem to stick or anything
Should I also be considering a short throw shifter as an upgrade ????
Last thing I just thought of...When completely stopped and trying to put it
into second it will go but does grind a bit ????
about a week ago after not driving it for a few months. While beating the ****
outta it after warming up, I missed on a 1-2 pull and just dismissed it as re-
learning the speed and timing of shifting...having not drove it in a while. So
yesterday I took it to the track and missed again on 2 of my 3 passes...which
when you're racing someone you quickly try to clutch again and pull the shift
er harder. Well needless to say I think something is trashed internally as it
now grinds going into second at any rpm. It feels to me that a shifter fork is
bent or something as the shifter just feels like it's not moving the gears far
enough to engage. The fluid was a little dirty and I soaked it up with a rag
and put some new stuff in the reservoir. The clutch is all stock 24k miles and
I'm not making a ton of power...380ish rw. At this point if I'm gonna have to
drop the whole rear IRS...well then I may as well upgrade the torque tube
joints, clutch, master cylinder and possibly the rear axles. This will be a win-
ter project as I've never undertook something like this. BTW the clutch pedal
feels fine and engages normal as usual and doesn't seem to stick or anything
Should I also be considering a short throw shifter as an upgrade ????
Last thing I just thought of...When completely stopped and trying to put it
into second it will go but does grind a bit ????
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; Oct 21, 2013 at 09:02 PM.
I agree if it only does it in 2nd gear then it sounds like a synchro issue. If the fork was bent you would also have trouble getting into 1st. The trans needs to be torn down to get a full diagnosis however.
The OP mentioned he think he might have a bent fork... I said no as he would have trouble getting into 1st if that was the case.
Likely he missed the shift and rounded the teeth on 2nd gear and or the slider and they need to be swapped. No way to tell until he pulls it though
Likely he missed the shift and rounded the teeth on 2nd gear and or the slider and they need to be swapped. No way to tell until he pulls it though
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 15
From: Fredonia,WI
Thanks for the suggestions guys...I'm definitely gonna pull it out and either
attempt to tackle it myself (and learn) or pony up for a pro/vendor to have
at it. I guess I just assumed that this trans would have handled more abuse
than I've given it considering such low miles on it and relatively lame power
level. Does the stock shifter play any role in this happening and why do most
seem to go to the short travel one ??? Just for faster movement ???
Also what other upgrades could/should I do to this trans so it doesn't become
a ritual for removing it.
Lastly, a buddy of mine has a new/low mile clutch out of his 2012 Grand
Sport Vette. Should I even consider this a potential upgrade or just go for
a new Monster (level ?) and Tick master/bleeder....blah blah blah ?????
attempt to tackle it myself (and learn) or pony up for a pro/vendor to have
at it. I guess I just assumed that this trans would have handled more abuse
than I've given it considering such low miles on it and relatively lame power
level. Does the stock shifter play any role in this happening and why do most
seem to go to the short travel one ??? Just for faster movement ???
Also what other upgrades could/should I do to this trans so it doesn't become
a ritual for removing it.
Lastly, a buddy of mine has a new/low mile clutch out of his 2012 Grand
Sport Vette. Should I even consider this a potential upgrade or just go for
a new Monster (level ?) and Tick master/bleeder....blah blah blah ?????
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Carefully check the 1-2 fork where the pads go; they can break there. Also at the shift rail; the aluminum forks wallow there; if it wobbles, replace. Also where the link hooks into it for wear; that's easy to miss, but the forward and rear faces of the fork may be worn against the link. The outer blocker ring may be cracked by the keys too.
