Dragging clutch?
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Dragging clutch? Hey guys have a 94 TA with a T56 as you may have guessed. I had suspicions of my clutch dragging because I can't engage reverse at all. It's not the lockout solenoid. It passes the gate smoothly. All the forward gears are notchy when the engine is running. When the engine is off and the clutch is depressed it's smooth as butter.
I was given the suggestion to block the rear end up and see if the tires still turn when the clutch is depressed. When I did this my tires only turned when the gear is first engaged. After about a second the tires stop rotating. Is this symptomatic of a dragging clutch? I'm at my wits end on this thing guys. Thanks for any help
I was given the suggestion to block the rear end up and see if the tires still turn when the clutch is depressed. When I did this my tires only turned when the gear is first engaged. After about a second the tires stop rotating. Is this symptomatic of a dragging clutch? I'm at my wits end on this thing guys. Thanks for any help
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true by jacking up rear end, put in gear with engine on and clutch all the way depressed the wheels should NOT turn. weird yours do then stop. another way is jack up car, motor off, car in gear, have someone hold clutch down and try and turn wheel by hand, it hard or can't turn clutch is not disengageing
It suggests your hydraulics are in need of bleeding or repair. Bent clutch forks or lose fork mount bolt are other reasons but hydraulics are more likely. Also if your clutch is toast and disc gets warped or TO bearing is seperating (lip peeling back) than that to will result in disengagement issues.
look closely at your MC & slave for any signs of seepage of fluid around piston...if so the associated part is bad. if you are losing fluid that is a sign of leak.
basically not just one thing can cause this but hydraulics are 1st in line
It suggests your hydraulics are in need of bleeding or repair. Bent clutch forks or lose fork mount bolt are other reasons but hydraulics are more likely. Also if your clutch is toast and disc gets warped or TO bearing is seperating (lip peeling back) than that to will result in disengagement issues.
look closely at your MC & slave for any signs of seepage of fluid around piston...if so the associated part is bad. if you are losing fluid that is a sign of leak.
basically not just one thing can cause this but hydraulics are 1st in line
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Ok I'll give this a shot soon as I'm home. I forgot to mention that the master cylinder was leaking and I just replaced it, hoping to have cured the problem. We bled it from the slave pumping it by hand as there are no bleeders on the LT1 trannys.. The master was not bench bled and I've heard that it's possible to get a pocket of air trapped in the master because of the angle that it sits at. Is that likely?
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Very true. Would the fact that it's dragging even that little prevent me from going all the way into reverse? It seems like the shifter won't all the way engage reverse, and if I push it as far into gear as I can and let out on the clutch it will lightly grind. Not even loud enough to hear outside the car.
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when you replaced the MC without first bench bleeding, the angle it mounts can trap air.
you can remove the MC & slave & resovoir as a unit and bench bleed the MC.
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Awesome. As big of a pain in the butt as taking the master off is, at least it gives me somewhere to go on this. Thank you kind sir.
ya, Ive worked on stock engine bay cars with wiring/headers/ brake lines, roll bars, in the way getting the master out easy, and its a hugr pain and I was sore or tired to beat my body up.
So get it the bleed better, jacking the front and the back up like 2 feet (safely) and bleed it more. get the master tiped, and midy vac it a little while tipped. Maybe try that if its easier then pulling the master out.
So get it the bleed better, jacking the front and the back up like 2 feet (safely) and bleed it more. get the master tiped, and midy vac it a little while tipped. Maybe try that if its easier then pulling the master out.