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Help I'm ready to go insane with this clutch

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Old 03-25-2014 | 06:03 PM
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Default Help I'm ready to go insane with this clutch

So before winter car ran fine other than a 3rd gear grind. Clutch was fine. Over winter rebuilt the whole trans did cam and full bolt ons added a monster stg 2. During this time I had the motor and trans pulled. Couple weeks ago put everything back together and I can't get the clutch to bleed what am I doing wrong? I drilled a hole in the floor and tried the traditional pump bleed method. It got me most of my pedal but I still have a lot of play in my pedal. And the pedal occasionally fluctuates from really bad to some times perfect. I've tried the mityvac method saw no change. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Old 03-26-2014 | 01:12 AM
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Rent a mighty vac vacuum bleeder gun and bleed the master.
Old 03-26-2014 | 09:21 AM
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Read first post tried mityvac about 10 times letting it sit while pulling vacuum anywhere from 10 minutes to 2 hours
Old 03-26-2014 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryant10275
So before winter car ran fine other than a 3rd gear grind. Clutch was fine. Over winter rebuilt the whole trans did cam and full bolt ons added a monster stg 2. During this time I had the motor and trans pulled. Couple weeks ago put everything back together and I can't get the clutch to bleed what am I doing wrong? I drilled a hole in the floor and tried the traditional pump bleed method. It got me most of my pedal but I still have a lot of play in my pedal. And the pedal occasionally fluctuates from really bad to some times perfect. I've tried the mityvac method saw no change. Any ideas what could be wrong?
If the car sat for a long time and now the engagement is inconsistent, it sounds like the master cylinder seals aren't working properly anymore. A remote bleeder is still the easiest way to bleed and I highly recommend one, regardless report back on what you find fixes it. Hope that helps, Chris
Old 03-26-2014 | 03:42 PM
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IMO its foolish to not spend the extra $45 for a remote bleeder when everything is already out.
Old 03-26-2014 | 06:21 PM
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So do you think it's the master? I pick a new one up tomorrow I will be installing it tomorrow night I'm really hoping this is it because I do not want to drop the trans 3 weeks after I put the motor and trans back in.....let alone the fact that I have solid mounts
Old 03-27-2014 | 02:19 PM
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It seems that you have replaced everything but the Master correct? Logically speaking it could easily be that the seals in the master are shot, allowing bleed-by to occur within the cylinder. You can disconnect the line between the master and the slave and then apply light pressure to the clutch pedal to see if it begins to drop. Don't press too hard, just light even pressure. If the pedal begins to drop then the seal in the Master is shot. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Old 03-27-2014 | 03:16 PM
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We'll I'm not to bright and didn't replace the slave either.....it looked good and had the updated part numbers so I thought it was a waste to replace. No I'm thinking differently....I pick up the new master in about 2 hours once I'm out of work and fingers crossed this fixes it
Old 03-27-2014 | 03:19 PM
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The slave is a very likely candidate for causing this issue too. Of course, the Master is easier to replace because you don't have to drop the trans. Keep us posted.
Old 03-27-2014 | 03:31 PM
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So you had the motor and transmission out of the car but didn't replace the slave OR get a remote bleeder?! Those are cheap replacements compared to everything else you were doing man! And the factory Clutch Master Cylinders in these cars are not trustworthy in the first place. I've known many guys that thought their clutch was going out but it was just the factory Clutch master cylinder. Replace it with a tick performance adjustable and it will be night and day!
Old 03-27-2014 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SPEC-01
The slave is a very likely candidate for causing this issue too. Of course, the Master is easier to replace because you don't have to drop the trans. Keep us posted.
Not the clutch master replaced today, bench bled installed mityvac'd it bled the slave it's all over the place now. At first it was way soft bled it for a while then it was like it was before (lots of play at the beginning. Finally got a solid pedal but only buy slowly pushing it down and slowly pulling it up.(let's me to believe bad seals) started it and only have about half pedal. Got pissed shut the garage up and came in the house. I started thinking that maybe the clutch needed shimmed but that doesn't explain the erratic pedal. So I guess tomorrow I buy a slave how hard is it to drop the trans with solid motor mounts? Oh and btw I noticed if it say over night it usually had a full pedal for the first push and then back to having play.
Old 03-27-2014 | 10:35 PM
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Really stupid question, did you already look at the hydraulic line and all of the fitting sto make sure they looked tight and/or weren't leaking any fluid?
Old 03-27-2014 | 10:36 PM
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If you unplug the hydraulic line from the slave the pedal should be rock hard. If not your master is bad

Solid motor mounts are hell to completely uninstall the trans, however if you are just pulling the trans to get the slave it's just like a regular car. The real pain is when you go to take the bell housing bolts off and the top 3 bolts are impossible to get unless you take the intake manifold off.

You will need very long extensions to reach the top bolt on driver and passengers side up top
Old 03-27-2014 | 10:45 PM
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Yes pedal is rock hard after I put the new master in(never checked it with old master) I wouldn't even question it after the new master install but a small part of me still thinks it's air. I just don't know how it could be after all the bleeding I've done in every way possible
Old 03-28-2014 | 09:40 AM
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Just picked up a slave can't wait to drop the trans with solid mounts change the slave and it still not be fixed<<<<<sarcasm
Old 03-28-2014 | 10:55 AM
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Hopefully this will take care of it for you Ryan! Let me know if you have other questions and I will be happy to help as best I can. Thanks and good luck with it!
Old 03-28-2014 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryant10275
Just picked up a slave can't wait to drop the trans with solid mounts change the slave and it still not be fixed<<<<<sarcasm
My only hesitation on it being the slave is when the seal doesn't work properly it leaks and I assume you're not loosing any fluid, either way if you're pulling the trans I'd highly recommend installing a a remote bleeder while in there and double checking the pressure plate bolts for torque. Update what you find out, good luck.
Old 03-28-2014 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SNLPerformance
My only hesitation on it being the slave is when the seal doesn't work properly it leaks and I assume you're not loosing any fluid, either way if you're pulling the trans I'd highly recommend installing a a remote bleeder while in there and double checking the pressure plate bolts for torque. Update what you find out, good luck.
That was exactly what I was thinking. I see drips here and there but I've been bleeding it like crazy so I think it's just from that coming out of the weep hole. I haven't noticed any fluid drop......I'll check back tonight with what I find I'm gunna try to knock it out after work
Old 03-28-2014 | 10:19 PM
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We'll no one showed up to help so I didn't get much done by myself all That was done was I got it pulled it actually does look like there's a lot of fluid around the slave and on the baseplate to the trans I'm starting to feel better about this
Old 03-30-2014 | 07:38 PM
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I'm at a loss I don't know what to do. I changed the slave and it's better but still have pedal fluctuation. If I really get into it the pedal is fine and shifts are fine, but slow I occasionally lose about half a pedal I have to sit and pump the hell out of the pedal to get it back. I bench bled the mc I mityvac'd it for over an hour a couple times I've bled from a bleeder atleast twenty times. It's about to go up for sale



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