McLeod or monster?
#22
So I but the bullet and ordered the stage 3 directly from monster today. Got the clutch, slave cylinder, remote bleeder and bolt kit shipped to my door for less than the price of the clutch itself normally. They were very easy to deal with and so far the customer service seems top notch. Can't wait to get it and see how well it works.
Let us know if you have any questions.
#26
#28
Yeah, I spoke to Billy @ Mcleod. He said that at 3600-3800 lbs, and 550 HP if our cars hook the RST and the RXT will not last. He said to use the $1700.00 Street Twin. I dont understand why the RST and RXT are rated @ 800 and 1200 HP and yet will not hold up to afew dragstrip passes?
#29
Yeah, I spoke to Billy @ Mcleod. He said that at 3600-3800 lbs, and 550 HP if our cars hook the RST and the RXT will not last. He said to use the $1700.00 Street Twin. I dont understand why the RST and RXT are rated @ 800 and 1200 HP and yet will not hold up to afew dragstrip passes?
That said, our LT1-S will hold, and has held, that kind of power in heavier cars and is a hell of a lot cheaper - with our current sale they're starting at less than $1k with a flywheel and hardware.
My personal car weighs over 4k and makes 495 rwhp with our LT1-S, it drives like stock and takes a beating with zero issues.
#30
That's flywheel hp numbers and there is a lot to take into consideration when recommending a clutch.
That said, our LT1-S will hold, and has held, that kind of power in heavier cars and is a hell of a lot cheaper - with our current sale they're starting at less than $1k with a flywheel and hardware.
My personal car weighs over 4k and makes 495 rwhp with our LT1-S, it drives like stock and takes a beating with zero issues.
That said, our LT1-S will hold, and has held, that kind of power in heavier cars and is a hell of a lot cheaper - with our current sale they're starting at less than $1k with a flywheel and hardware.
My personal car weighs over 4k and makes 495 rwhp with our LT1-S, it drives like stock and takes a beating with zero issues.
#31
#35
another Monster fan here....i got their stage 2 kit with the lighter flywheel and love it. i had that setup along with a Tick MC, and the pedal is only slightly harder than stock, but took any/all abuse i could throw at it.
in fact, when i had problems with my pedal sticking to the floor, i had a local trans shop install the Tick MC, stock slave, a speed bleeder, and the clutch kit all at the same time. well, despite me giving them EXPLICIT instructions (along with the instruction sheet shipped with the clutch kit which details EXACTLY how to properly torque everything), these dolts ended up installing the pressure plate incorrectly...the 6 bolts were all torqued differently, anywhere from barely staying in on their own, to needing a long breaker bar to break them loose. this resulted in the fingers of the pressure plate not aligning correctly and clutch engagement problems. due to reasons i won't go into, i ended up driving it that way for a bit (which caused transmission problems requiring a partial rebuild), and it caused hotspotting on both the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces, as well as glazing on the clutch disc itself.
once i got the transmission repaired and reinstalled everything correctly myself because i no longer trust anyone in my shitty town anymore, everything worked great with no slipping, no vibrating, nothing, and still handled anything i could throw at it with no problems whatsoever. i just beat the **** out of it a little once i verified the clutch engagement was setup correctly to knock the glazing off. it drove just as smoothly as it did at stock up until the day i wrecked the car.
i'm looking for a rolling chassis at the moment, and i plan on putting my engine and transmission/clutch in it, and still expect no problems from it when that day comes.
in fact, when i had problems with my pedal sticking to the floor, i had a local trans shop install the Tick MC, stock slave, a speed bleeder, and the clutch kit all at the same time. well, despite me giving them EXPLICIT instructions (along with the instruction sheet shipped with the clutch kit which details EXACTLY how to properly torque everything), these dolts ended up installing the pressure plate incorrectly...the 6 bolts were all torqued differently, anywhere from barely staying in on their own, to needing a long breaker bar to break them loose. this resulted in the fingers of the pressure plate not aligning correctly and clutch engagement problems. due to reasons i won't go into, i ended up driving it that way for a bit (which caused transmission problems requiring a partial rebuild), and it caused hotspotting on both the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces, as well as glazing on the clutch disc itself.
once i got the transmission repaired and reinstalled everything correctly myself because i no longer trust anyone in my shitty town anymore, everything worked great with no slipping, no vibrating, nothing, and still handled anything i could throw at it with no problems whatsoever. i just beat the **** out of it a little once i verified the clutch engagement was setup correctly to knock the glazing off. it drove just as smoothly as it did at stock up until the day i wrecked the car.
i'm looking for a rolling chassis at the moment, and i plan on putting my engine and transmission/clutch in it, and still expect no problems from it when that day comes.
#36
We offer both at great prices. Both brands are great clutches backed by good customer support. Check out our link to special online prices.
Click Here For Web Specials on Mcleod & Monster
Click Here For Web Specials on Mcleod & Monster
#37
another Monster fan here....i got their stage 2 kit with the lighter flywheel and love it. i had that setup along with a Tick MC, and the pedal is only slightly harder than stock, but took any/all abuse i could throw at it.
in fact, when i had problems with my pedal sticking to the floor, i had a local trans shop install the Tick MC, stock slave, a speed bleeder, and the clutch kit all at the same time. well, despite me giving them EXPLICIT instructions (along with the instruction sheet shipped with the clutch kit which details EXACTLY how to properly torque everything), these dolts ended up installing the pressure plate incorrectly...the 6 bolts were all torqued differently, anywhere from barely staying in on their own, to needing a long breaker bar to break them loose. this resulted in the fingers of the pressure plate not aligning correctly and clutch engagement problems. due to reasons i won't go into, i ended up driving it that way for a bit (which caused transmission problems requiring a partial rebuild), and it caused hotspotting on both the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces, as well as glazing on the clutch disc itself.
once i got the transmission repaired and reinstalled everything correctly myself because i no longer trust anyone in my shitty town anymore, everything worked great with no slipping, no vibrating, nothing, and still handled anything i could throw at it with no problems whatsoever. i just beat the **** out of it a little once i verified the clutch engagement was setup correctly to knock the glazing off. it drove just as smoothly as it did at stock up until the day i wrecked the car.
i'm looking for a rolling chassis at the moment, and i plan on putting my engine and transmission/clutch in it, and still expect no problems from it when that day comes.
in fact, when i had problems with my pedal sticking to the floor, i had a local trans shop install the Tick MC, stock slave, a speed bleeder, and the clutch kit all at the same time. well, despite me giving them EXPLICIT instructions (along with the instruction sheet shipped with the clutch kit which details EXACTLY how to properly torque everything), these dolts ended up installing the pressure plate incorrectly...the 6 bolts were all torqued differently, anywhere from barely staying in on their own, to needing a long breaker bar to break them loose. this resulted in the fingers of the pressure plate not aligning correctly and clutch engagement problems. due to reasons i won't go into, i ended up driving it that way for a bit (which caused transmission problems requiring a partial rebuild), and it caused hotspotting on both the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces, as well as glazing on the clutch disc itself.
once i got the transmission repaired and reinstalled everything correctly myself because i no longer trust anyone in my shitty town anymore, everything worked great with no slipping, no vibrating, nothing, and still handled anything i could throw at it with no problems whatsoever. i just beat the **** out of it a little once i verified the clutch engagement was setup correctly to knock the glazing off. it drove just as smoothly as it did at stock up until the day i wrecked the car.
i'm looking for a rolling chassis at the moment, and i plan on putting my engine and transmission/clutch in it, and still expect no problems from it when that day comes.
#38
I've been happy with my Monster level 1 but wish I had gone with a level 2. When the level 1 is done I'll have a hard time choosing between a level 2 or a LT1-S, it will likely come down to what my credit card and bank account balances are at the time.
Can a LT1-S be used with a Tick MC?
Can a LT1-S be used with a Tick MC?
#39
I have the Monster Stage 2 package that came with 28lb flywheel, speed bleeder, slave cylinder, Tick MC, pilot bearing and Arp bolts. I think I paid just a hair over $1000 for it all. It was a great deal and probably one of the best decisions I made.
#40
I've been happy with my Monster level 1 but wish I had gone with a level 2. When the level 1 is done I'll have a hard time choosing between a level 2 or a LT1-S, it will likely come down to what my credit card and bank account balances are at the time.
Can a LT1-S be used with a Tick MC?
Can a LT1-S be used with a Tick MC?
Awesome!!