Lt1 T56 push type for 2 piece rear main
#1
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Trying to mate a lt1 t56 behind my 400 2 piece rear main sbc.
I've read and read and most people typically keep the lt1 pull type clutch setup which I am not a fan of.
Why wouldn't a Ram 2 piece flywheel, ram clutch setup and ram hydraulic throwout not work on this?
Flywheel
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-Cl...oth,23954.html
Clutch
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-88...-26,70767.html
Throwout
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-Cl...nly,29140.html
I've read and read and most people typically keep the lt1 pull type clutch setup which I am not a fan of.
Why wouldn't a Ram 2 piece flywheel, ram clutch setup and ram hydraulic throwout not work on this?
Flywheel
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-Cl...oth,23954.html
Clutch
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-88...-26,70767.html
Throwout
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-Cl...nly,29140.html
#2
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Most simple way to do what you're wanting is use an LS T56 (or convert your LT over) and run this adapter plate:
http://www.tickperformance.com/t56-m...-applications/
This allows you to use gen 1 sbc fly/clutch/bell and use the gen 1 hyd or manual linkage. I'm running this setup behind a 2pc rear main externally balanced 383 with manual linkage and it works fabulous. Way more affordable clutch options this way. You just need the adapter plate and an extended pilot bushing.
http://www.tickperformance.com/t56-m...-applications/
This allows you to use gen 1 sbc fly/clutch/bell and use the gen 1 hyd or manual linkage. I'm running this setup behind a 2pc rear main externally balanced 383 with manual linkage and it works fabulous. Way more affordable clutch options this way. You just need the adapter plate and an extended pilot bushing.
#4
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First, with fabrication to make the slave work on theT56 (it doesn't fit without work!) and a solid hub disc (read your flywheel specs!) Your proposed list of parts might fit. And you would have accomplished nothing bettter than the LT1 clutch which is 11" and sprung hub. Plus, a superlight flywheel with solid hub disc would be a poor drivability combination.
On the Fidanza., do not try and run a balance weight between wheel and crank for the 400 external balance
Get the wheel balanced for the 400. A 0.100" thick balance weight takes the clutch release out of proper geometry. BTDT.
There are ways to do what you're asking. None accomplish anything and will cost money.
On the Fidanza., do not try and run a balance weight between wheel and crank for the 400 external balance
Get the wheel balanced for the 400. A 0.100" thick balance weight takes the clutch release out of proper geometry. BTDT.
There are ways to do what you're asking. None accomplish anything and will cost money.
#5
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I ran a 2pc rear main SBC with a LT1 T56, I ran the Spec Alum flywheel with spec 3 clutch and stock LT1 hydraulics and didn't have a problem. Shifted it at 7000 plus every shift.
I have all of that stuff for sale too.
I have all of that stuff for sale too.
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#8
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a good machine shop could match balance a aftermarket LT1 FW to a 400 external balance FW
Op, if going with the pull type LT1 clutch,
you can buy the pull type sealed hydraulics for around $125. rockauto.com may have better $ than local auto part store. Reservoir,MC/slave all in one sealed unit, no bleeding.
BTW, the LT1 pull clutch takes specific PP bolts. ARP now makes a set. GM ones are discontinued
PP TQ is 22 ft lbs, more can cause disengagement issues
76 ft lbs TQ on FW bolts
Op, if going with the pull type LT1 clutch,
you can buy the pull type sealed hydraulics for around $125. rockauto.com may have better $ than local auto part store. Reservoir,MC/slave all in one sealed unit, no bleeding.
BTW, the LT1 pull clutch takes specific PP bolts. ARP now makes a set. GM ones are discontinued
PP TQ is 22 ft lbs, more can cause disengagement issues
76 ft lbs TQ on FW bolts
#9