Just pulled the trigger on Monster LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics
04-05-2015, 03:22 PM
#24
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Some of the vendors don't recommend the adjustable with the twin discs but I asked Steve about this and he said the LT1 series is totally fine with the adjustable. Just not their race series discs, however the adjustable will most likely add about 30% to the pedal.
04-05-2015, 03:24 PM
#25
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04-06-2015, 03:40 PM
#28
I saw this and had to come in here and say two things.
1. My first aftermarket clutch was a Spec Stage III. I don't think made it to 10k miles. It had 3 track passes and that was it. On the street I treated it like a baby. At the time I was in college and put the stock clutch back in (yes I know), and it worked BETTER until I was able to save up and get something that could handle the power. Spec didn't do anything to try to help me out either. Needless to say, it was the last time I ever did business with them.
2. My something better was a Monster clutch. This thing is a champ. No problems on a boosted LS1
I love the green pressure plate too!
1. My first aftermarket clutch was a Spec Stage III. I don't think made it to 10k miles. It had 3 track passes and that was it. On the street I treated it like a baby. At the time I was in college and put the stock clutch back in (yes I know), and it worked BETTER until I was able to save up and get something that could handle the power. Spec didn't do anything to try to help me out either. Needless to say, it was the last time I ever did business with them.
2. My something better was a Monster clutch. This thing is a champ. No problems on a boosted LS1
I love the green pressure plate too!
04-06-2015, 03:56 PM
#29
I saw this and had to come in here and say two things.
1. My first aftermarket clutch was a Spec Stage III. I don't think made it to 10k miles. It had 3 track passes and that was it. On the street I treated it like a baby. At the time I was in college and put the stock clutch back in (yes I know), and it worked BETTER until I was able to save up and get something that could handle the power. Spec didn't do anything to try to help me out either. Needless to say, it was the last time I ever did business with them.
2. My something better was a Monster clutch. This thing is a champ. No problems on a boosted LS1 I love the green pressure plate too!
1. My first aftermarket clutch was a Spec Stage III. I don't think made it to 10k miles. It had 3 track passes and that was it. On the street I treated it like a baby. At the time I was in college and put the stock clutch back in (yes I know), and it worked BETTER until I was able to save up and get something that could handle the power. Spec didn't do anything to try to help me out either. Needless to say, it was the last time I ever did business with them.
2. My something better was a Monster clutch. This thing is a champ. No problems on a boosted LS1
I love the green pressure plate too!
04-06-2015, 05:37 PM
#31
My Spec 2+ has 29k miles on it and is still holding strong in the lower gears, but started slipping a little in 5th or 6th about 2k miles ago......i guess it has been a pretty good one overall, along with the Tick master cyl....it took me from bolt-ons to cam only 401rwhp and saw mostly hard street miles with a few track passes when I was still on the 10 bolt rear.....that being said, I think i just got lucky......i wouldn't buy another Spec, my next one will be either a Monster ceramic race 11" or the LT1s....congrats on the new clutch OP, I'll be looking forward to hear what you think about it.
04-06-2015, 06:09 PM
#32
My Spec 2+ has 29k miles on it and is still holding strong in the lower gears, but started slipping a little in 5th or 6th about 2k miles ago......i guess it has been a pretty good one overall, along with the Tick master cyl....it took me from bolt-ons to cam only 401rwhp and saw mostly hard street miles with a few track passes when I was still on the 10 bolt rear.....that being said, I think i just got lucky......i wouldn't buy another Spec, my next one will be either a Monster ceramic race 11" or the LT1s....congrats on the new clutch OP, I'll be looking forward to hear what you think about it.
04-07-2015, 01:08 PM
#33
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I saw this and had to come in here and say two things.
1. My first aftermarket clutch was a Spec Stage III. I don't think made it to 10k miles. It had 3 track passes and that was it. On the street I treated it like a baby. At the time I was in college and put the stock clutch back in (yes I know), and it worked BETTER until I was able to save up and get something that could handle the power. Spec didn't do anything to try to help me out either. Needless to say, it was the last time I ever did business with them.
1. My first aftermarket clutch was a Spec Stage III. I don't think made it to 10k miles. It had 3 track passes and that was it. On the street I treated it like a baby. At the time I was in college and put the stock clutch back in (yes I know), and it worked BETTER until I was able to save up and get something that could handle the power. Spec didn't do anything to try to help me out either. Needless to say, it was the last time I ever did business with them.
My Spec 2+ has 29k miles on it and is still holding strong in the lower gears, but started slipping a little in 5th or 6th about 2k miles ago......i guess it has been a pretty good one overall, along with the Tick master cyl....it took me from bolt-ons to cam only 401rwhp and saw mostly hard street miles with a few track passes when I was still on the 10 bolt rear.....that being said, I think i just got lucky......i wouldn't buy another Spec, my next one will be either a Monster ceramic race 11" or the LT1s....congrats on the new clutch OP, I'll be looking forward to hear what you think about it.
I'll be posting up soon to give everyone an update after the install. Just found out my order shipped so I'll hopefully have it in about a week or so. In the meantime, while everything is a part, I'm prepping the car by re-doing the rear main seal and housing. Anyone willing off tips/best practices or best brand gasket to use? Fel-Pro has mixed reviews, not sure who GM uses to make their gaskets, and there is Victor Reinz? I just really don't want to replace a non-leaking rear main with something that will start leaking.
A New GM OPSU and I read about venting the bell-housing on this thread to help extend the life of the clutch and removing dust: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ur-clutch.html
Anyone here do this or have experience with this?
It seems very mixed between DON'T cut the bell-housing and others who said it shouldn't matter. This car isn't a daily and won't see rain so I'm not worried about water getting splashed up into the bell-housing, but I would like a way to vent the clutch, remove clutch dust to hopefully extend the slave's life as well as the rear main's life so that all the clutch dust isn't getting inside and breaking the seals down. I also am not ready to spend $500 on an aftermarket bell-housing.
I really appreciate the help/advice and will hopefully be getting the car prepped this week for the install this weekend or early next week, I will continue to keep you all updated!
04-08-2015, 07:43 PM
#34
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You're going to love that clutch. I put the LT1-SC and Tick master cylinder in my GTO (720whp) and it is awsome. I switched from a Textralia when I put in my new engine and it is a night and day difference.
04-14-2015, 11:03 AM
#38
Many on here have had the same experience, including myself. Definitely wish they stood behind their product a bit more than they do.
Awesome to hear, looking forward to getting through the 500 mile break in period and actually testing this thing out
Thank you very much! I'll be posting up soon to give everyone an update after the install. Just found out my order shipped so I'll hopefully have it in about a week or so.
In the meantime, while everything is a part, I'm prepping the car by re-doing the rear main seal and housing. Anyone willing off tips/best practices or best brand gasket to use? Fel-Pro has mixed reviews, not sure who GM uses to make their gaskets, and there is Victor Reinz? I just really don't want to replace a non-leaking rear main with something that will start leaking.
A New GM OPSU and I read about venting the bell-housing on this thread to help extend the life of the clutch and removing dust: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ur-clutch.html
Anyone here do this or have experience with this?
It seems very mixed between DON'T cut the bell-housing and others who said it shouldn't matter. This car isn't a daily and won't see rain so I'm not worried about water getting splashed up into the bell-housing, but I would like a way to vent the clutch, remove clutch dust to hopefully extend the slave's life as well as the rear main's life so that all the clutch dust isn't getting inside and breaking the seals down. I also am not ready to spend $500 on an aftermarket bell-housing.
I really appreciate the help/advice and will hopefully be getting the car prepped this week for the install this weekend or early next week, I will continue to keep you all updated!
Awesome to hear, looking forward to getting through the 500 mile break in period and actually testing this thing out
Thank you very much!
I'll be posting up soon to give everyone an update after the install. Just found out my order shipped so I'll hopefully have it in about a week or so. In the meantime, while everything is a part, I'm prepping the car by re-doing the rear main seal and housing. Anyone willing off tips/best practices or best brand gasket to use? Fel-Pro has mixed reviews, not sure who GM uses to make their gaskets, and there is Victor Reinz? I just really don't want to replace a non-leaking rear main with something that will start leaking.
A New GM OPSU and I read about venting the bell-housing on this thread to help extend the life of the clutch and removing dust: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ur-clutch.html
Anyone here do this or have experience with this?
It seems very mixed between DON'T cut the bell-housing and others who said it shouldn't matter. This car isn't a daily and won't see rain so I'm not worried about water getting splashed up into the bell-housing, but I would like a way to vent the clutch, remove clutch dust to hopefully extend the slave's life as well as the rear main's life so that all the clutch dust isn't getting inside and breaking the seals down. I also am not ready to spend $500 on an aftermarket bell-housing.
I really appreciate the help/advice and will hopefully be getting the car prepped this week for the install this weekend or early next week, I will continue to keep you all updated!
I know some people don't worry much about getting an alignment tool or finding cheaper methods, but I'd rather do everything I can to make sure it's right. I thought of how pissed off I would have been if it was leaking, and that made the decision easy. It doesn't make sense to go through all that trouble and not go that one little extra step.
04-14-2015, 01:08 PM
#39
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Last year I pulled the motor and replaced all the seals. My suggestion would be to get a proper alignment tool. I believe you can but the entire rear main cover and it comes with the rear main seal and the metal gasket (you need to confirm this though). I just replaced all of it.
I know some people don't worry much about getting an alignment tool or finding cheaper methods, but I'd rather do everything I can to make sure it's right. I thought of how pissed off I would have been if it was leaking, and that made the decision easy. It doesn't make sense to go through all that trouble and not go that one little extra step.
I know some people don't worry much about getting an alignment tool or finding cheaper methods, but I'd rather do everything I can to make sure it's right. I thought of how pissed off I would have been if it was leaking, and that made the decision easy. It doesn't make sense to go through all that trouble and not go that one little extra step.
04-14-2015, 06:48 PM
#40
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Last year I pulled the motor and replaced all the seals. My suggestion would be to get a proper alignment tool. I believe you can but the entire rear main cover and it comes with the rear main seal and the metal gasket (you need to confirm this though). I just replaced all of it.
I know some people don't worry much about getting an alignment tool or finding cheaper methods, but I'd rather do everything I can to make sure it's right. I thought of how pissed off I would have been if it was leaking, and that made the decision easy. It doesn't make sense to go through all that trouble and not go that one little extra step.
I know some people don't worry much about getting an alignment tool or finding cheaper methods, but I'd rather do everything I can to make sure it's right. I thought of how pissed off I would have been if it was leaking, and that made the decision easy. It doesn't make sense to go through all that trouble and not go that one little extra step.
I wish I knew about that alignment tool. I took the cover off so I could do the rear main while it was apart. I think it makes it easier to get the seal in straight and u damaged. However, after I did it, I have a leak where the cover meets the oil pan. I've been jus living with it, but I do believe Karl is giving you good advise
I figure that should work enough as an alignment tool, does anyone have a preference on brand gasket?
I'll also be using Hi-Temp RTV for the seal between housing and oil pan in an attempt to not have any leaks.
Lastly my Tick Hydraulics made it in today so hopefully the clutch will get here soon and I can get her back on the road soon, and update you all with this install.
