Just pulled the trigger on Monster LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics
#1
Just pulled the trigger on Monster LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics
Before anything else, I just want to say thank you to all of the members here for the wealth of information to be found for our cars. It has been an amazing help and "Search" definitely works
Now for those who may be interested, my own clutch adventure:
02 WS6 in my sig. Bought it last year from its original owner who had a Spec 2+ put in it a couple years ago with stock hydraulics, however the clutch had very few miles on it so I figured I'd be good for a few years. Yay... Not...
A few weeks ago, I needed to pass someone on the freeway (idiot not staying in his own damn lane) and I felt the clutch slip a bit in Sixth gear as I rolled into the throttle. It came as a bit of a surprise so I babied the car the rest of the way home.
I checked and bled the system found out that the hydraulics appeared to be fine (or at least as good as the stock master cylinder works )
Took the car back out again, and pushed her a little. She wouldn't slip in first, second, third or fourth, however as soon as I hit fifth, she started to slip again. At this point I figured there was definitely something wrong, possibly a shimming issue or slave problem.
So I dropped the transmission over this past weekend and confirmed, the clutch is somehow down to the rivets on 4 of the 6 pucks.
Well ****... I haven't been hard on her or even taken her to the track and the clutch is already gone. I'm assuming it may not of been shimmed properly as I've heard many people say that Spec's almost always need a shim.
Either way with both the previous owner and myself combined, the Spec 2+ barely saw 10k miles, 4k of those being mine that were babied on the weekend to a cars and coffee or a show n' shine. Either that or as some others have said, Spec clutches are piles of steaming....
With this in mind I delved into this Sub-Forum and spent hours scouring through all of the opinions and testimonials, found out I wasn't alone with the issues with Spec, and as the title says, I figured if I was gonna do it, do it right the first time.
So I made my list:
New Tick Master
Tick Bleeder
New Slave
New Pilot
Monster LT1-S Twin Disc
18lb Flywheel (Sorry Steve I know you said get the 28lb I just had to try the 18lb from all of the raving reviews others have given it)
Just ordered the whole setup today and figured that I hadn't seen anyone else mention this particular setup (LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics and the lightened flywheel, so I though some of you may be interested in a review once its all installed.
Lastly, I really want to thank Steve at Monster Clutches.
Eric, Martin and Joey over at Tick Performance, and John at Maryland Speed.
Everyone one of you guys went out of your way to help me and explain everything in great detail, beyond what could be found here. I appreciate all of the expertise and amazing customer service you all have provided and can't wait to get these parts installed, then reviewed if people are interested.
Now for those who may be interested, my own clutch adventure:
02 WS6 in my sig. Bought it last year from its original owner who had a Spec 2+ put in it a couple years ago with stock hydraulics, however the clutch had very few miles on it so I figured I'd be good for a few years. Yay... Not...
A few weeks ago, I needed to pass someone on the freeway (idiot not staying in his own damn lane) and I felt the clutch slip a bit in Sixth gear as I rolled into the throttle. It came as a bit of a surprise so I babied the car the rest of the way home.
I checked and bled the system found out that the hydraulics appeared to be fine (or at least as good as the stock master cylinder works )
Took the car back out again, and pushed her a little. She wouldn't slip in first, second, third or fourth, however as soon as I hit fifth, she started to slip again. At this point I figured there was definitely something wrong, possibly a shimming issue or slave problem.
So I dropped the transmission over this past weekend and confirmed, the clutch is somehow down to the rivets on 4 of the 6 pucks.
Well ****... I haven't been hard on her or even taken her to the track and the clutch is already gone. I'm assuming it may not of been shimmed properly as I've heard many people say that Spec's almost always need a shim.
Either way with both the previous owner and myself combined, the Spec 2+ barely saw 10k miles, 4k of those being mine that were babied on the weekend to a cars and coffee or a show n' shine. Either that or as some others have said, Spec clutches are piles of steaming....
With this in mind I delved into this Sub-Forum and spent hours scouring through all of the opinions and testimonials, found out I wasn't alone with the issues with Spec, and as the title says, I figured if I was gonna do it, do it right the first time.
So I made my list:
New Tick Master
Tick Bleeder
New Slave
New Pilot
Monster LT1-S Twin Disc
18lb Flywheel (Sorry Steve I know you said get the 28lb I just had to try the 18lb from all of the raving reviews others have given it)
Just ordered the whole setup today and figured that I hadn't seen anyone else mention this particular setup (LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics and the lightened flywheel, so I though some of you may be interested in a review once its all installed.
Lastly, I really want to thank Steve at Monster Clutches.
Eric, Martin and Joey over at Tick Performance, and John at Maryland Speed.
Everyone one of you guys went out of your way to help me and explain everything in great detail, beyond what could be found here. I appreciate all of the expertise and amazing customer service you all have provided and can't wait to get these parts installed, then reviewed if people are interested.
#2
I can't believe that's a 10,000 mile clutch! I saw one of your other posts saying avoid spec. Now I get it.
I've got about 10K on my monster, and I still have not had to adjust the master cylinder yet. Still runs like it did when I threw it in.
I've got about 10K on my monster, and I still have not had to adjust the master cylinder yet. Still runs like it did when I threw it in.
#3
Before anything else, I just want to say thank you to all of the members here for the wealth of information to be found for our cars. It has been an amazing help and "Search" definitely works
Now for those who may be interested, my own clutch adventure:
02 WS6 in my sig. Bought it last year from its original owner who had a Spec 2+ put in it a couple years ago with stock hydraulics, however the clutch had very few miles on it so I figured I'd be good for a few years. Yay... Not...
A few weeks ago, I needed to pass someone on the freeway (idiot not staying in his own damn lane) and I felt the clutch slip a bit in Sixth gear as I rolled into the throttle. It came as a bit of a surprise so I babied the car the rest of the way home.
I checked and bled the system found out that the hydraulics appeared to be fine (or at least as good as the stock master cylinder works )
Took the car back out again, and pushed her a little. She wouldn't slip in first, second, third or fourth, however as soon as I hit fifth, she started to slip again. At this point I figured there was definitely something wrong, possibly a shimming issue or slave problem.
So I dropped the transmission over this past weekend and confirmed, the clutch is somehow down to the rivets on 4 of the 6 pucks.
Well ****... I haven't been hard on her or even taken her to the track and the clutch is already gone. I'm assuming it may not of been shimmed properly as I've heard many people say that Spec's almost always need a shim.
Either way with both the previous owner and myself combined, the Spec 2+ barely saw 10k miles, 4k of those being mine that were babied on the weekend to a cars and coffee or a show n' shine. Either that or as some others have said, Spec clutches are piles of steaming....
With this in mind I delved into this Sub-Forum and spent hours scouring through all of the opinions and testimonials, found out I wasn't alone with the issues with Spec, and as the title says, I figured if I was gonna do it, do it right the first time.
So I made my list:
New Tick Master
Tick Bleeder
New Slave
New Pilot
Monster LT1-S Twin Disc
18lb Flywheel (Sorry Steve I know you said get the 28lb I just had to try the 18lb from all of the raving reviews others have given it)
Just ordered the whole setup today and figured that I hadn't seen anyone else mention this particular setup (LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics and the lightened flywheel, so I though some of you may be interested in a review once its all installed.
Lastly, I really want to thank Steve at Monster Clutches.
Eric, Martin and Joey over at Tick Performance, and John at Maryland Speed.
Everyone one of you guys went out of your way to help me and explain everything in great detail, beyond what could be found here. I appreciate all of the expertise and amazing customer service you all have provided and can't wait to get these parts installed, then reviewed if people are interested.
Now for those who may be interested, my own clutch adventure:
02 WS6 in my sig. Bought it last year from its original owner who had a Spec 2+ put in it a couple years ago with stock hydraulics, however the clutch had very few miles on it so I figured I'd be good for a few years. Yay... Not...
A few weeks ago, I needed to pass someone on the freeway (idiot not staying in his own damn lane) and I felt the clutch slip a bit in Sixth gear as I rolled into the throttle. It came as a bit of a surprise so I babied the car the rest of the way home.
I checked and bled the system found out that the hydraulics appeared to be fine (or at least as good as the stock master cylinder works )
Took the car back out again, and pushed her a little. She wouldn't slip in first, second, third or fourth, however as soon as I hit fifth, she started to slip again. At this point I figured there was definitely something wrong, possibly a shimming issue or slave problem.
So I dropped the transmission over this past weekend and confirmed, the clutch is somehow down to the rivets on 4 of the 6 pucks.
Well ****... I haven't been hard on her or even taken her to the track and the clutch is already gone. I'm assuming it may not of been shimmed properly as I've heard many people say that Spec's almost always need a shim.
Either way with both the previous owner and myself combined, the Spec 2+ barely saw 10k miles, 4k of those being mine that were babied on the weekend to a cars and coffee or a show n' shine. Either that or as some others have said, Spec clutches are piles of steaming....
With this in mind I delved into this Sub-Forum and spent hours scouring through all of the opinions and testimonials, found out I wasn't alone with the issues with Spec, and as the title says, I figured if I was gonna do it, do it right the first time.
So I made my list:
New Tick Master
Tick Bleeder
New Slave
New Pilot
Monster LT1-S Twin Disc
18lb Flywheel (Sorry Steve I know you said get the 28lb I just had to try the 18lb from all of the raving reviews others have given it)
Just ordered the whole setup today and figured that I hadn't seen anyone else mention this particular setup (LT1-S with Tick Hydraulics and the lightened flywheel, so I though some of you may be interested in a review once its all installed.
Lastly, I really want to thank Steve at Monster Clutches.
Eric, Martin and Joey over at Tick Performance, and John at Maryland Speed.
Everyone one of you guys went out of your way to help me and explain everything in great detail, beyond what could be found here. I appreciate all of the expertise and amazing customer service you all have provided and can't wait to get these parts installed, then reviewed if people are interested.
Keep us posted.
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#8
#10
Definitely will and yes this is my first twin disc.
I almost went with a RST from McLeod but saw that a few people had posted about problems with them. (Balancing, Shims etc) I wanted to stay in about the $1500 price range with the Tick Hydraulics . Plus with McLeod, it cost's an additional $5-600 to get a balanced flywheel and clutch assembly, putting you into the $1800-2000 range. That just seems way to much for a clutch assembly on a street car barely making 390 to the wheels.
I didn't want to risk just getting a standard McLeod flywheel and then finding out something was off and having to pull everything back a part. I work in QA/QC myself so a company that sets their own high QA/QC standards will always get my business.
That and Steve, the owner of Monster Clutches was great about answering all of my stupid questions (I say stupid because he's probably answered the same ones 5000 times from people like me over-researching) I had and being honest about application, use and abuse potential with his discs. He's really knowledgeable about what he does and by his customer service alone, (IMHO) he deserves our business.
I almost went with a RST from McLeod but saw that a few people had posted about problems with them. (Balancing, Shims etc) I wanted to stay in about the $1500 price range with the Tick Hydraulics . Plus with McLeod, it cost's an additional $5-600 to get a balanced flywheel and clutch assembly, putting you into the $1800-2000 range. That just seems way to much for a clutch assembly on a street car barely making 390 to the wheels.
I didn't want to risk just getting a standard McLeod flywheel and then finding out something was off and having to pull everything back a part. I work in QA/QC myself so a company that sets their own high QA/QC standards will always get my business.
That and Steve, the owner of Monster Clutches was great about answering all of my stupid questions (I say stupid because he's probably answered the same ones 5000 times from people like me over-researching) I had and being honest about application, use and abuse potential with his discs. He's really knowledgeable about what he does and by his customer service alone, (IMHO) he deserves our business.
#11
Definitely will and yes this is my first twin disc.
I almost went with a RST from McLeod but saw that a few people had posted about problems with them. (Balancing, Shims etc) I wanted to stay in about the $1500 price range with the Tick Hydraulics . Plus with McLeod, it cost's an additional $5-600 to get a balanced flywheel and clutch assembly, putting you into the $1800-2000 range. That just seems way to much for a clutch assembly on a street car barely making 390 to the wheels.
I didn't want to risk just getting a standard McLeod flywheel and then finding out something was off and having to pull everything back a part. I work in QA/QC myself so a company that sets their own high QA/QC standards will always get my business.
That and Steve, the owner of Monster Clutches was great about answering all of my stupid questions (I say stupid because he's probably answered the same ones 5000 times from people like me over-researching) I had and being honest about application, use and abuse potential with his discs. He's really knowledgeable about what he does and by his customer service alone, (IMHO) he deserves our business.
I almost went with a RST from McLeod but saw that a few people had posted about problems with them. (Balancing, Shims etc) I wanted to stay in about the $1500 price range with the Tick Hydraulics . Plus with McLeod, it cost's an additional $5-600 to get a balanced flywheel and clutch assembly, putting you into the $1800-2000 range. That just seems way to much for a clutch assembly on a street car barely making 390 to the wheels.
I didn't want to risk just getting a standard McLeod flywheel and then finding out something was off and having to pull everything back a part. I work in QA/QC myself so a company that sets their own high QA/QC standards will always get my business.
That and Steve, the owner of Monster Clutches was great about answering all of my stupid questions (I say stupid because he's probably answered the same ones 5000 times from people like me over-researching) I had and being honest about application, use and abuse potential with his discs. He's really knowledgeable about what he does and by his customer service alone, (IMHO) he deserves our business.
#12
#13
#16
Yes, I asked Steve this question directly
Q: "are your twin packages zero balanced from the factory with your flywheels, or do you recommend having them checked before installation?"
A: Steve's Response: "My units are balanced within factory spec which is +/- 12 grams or 1/2 inch ounce. You really have nothing to worry about on balance unless you have a torque tube car, IE a Corvette."
Q: "are your twin packages zero balanced from the factory with your flywheels, or do you recommend having them checked before installation?"
A: Steve's Response: "My units are balanced within factory spec which is +/- 12 grams or 1/2 inch ounce. You really have nothing to worry about on balance unless you have a torque tube car, IE a Corvette."
#17
And in these cases we always tell guys to have the balance matched to what they pull from the car. 9/10 times it's great, every once in a while you'll get one that is finicky.
#19
I hope this Monster holds up for quite a bit longer! Rated for 700 and I'm only putting ~390 to it.
Although with the lower MOI and lightweight flywheel, I may get the car dyno'd again to see how much HP the twin disc has helped me pick up at the wheels
#20
Mines been in a year now and 10k miles. I haven't had to adjust the master yet. Great clutch. Our mods are similar, except I've had the heads worked over. That should give you an idea anyway