This thing in yet? Really want to pull the trigger on a lt1-s but would like some feed back

 

Been waiting on the clutch... it will hopefully be delivered tomorrow and will be getting her buttoned up this weekend. (Thats the plan at least as long as no new surprises come up!)

 

Hey guys,

Just an update:

This past weekend I got most of everything installed, I'm also going through a home purchase at the same time and haven't gotten as much time with the car as I would like.

Also I learned the hard way to not try and remove the OPSU with the intake still on - After fighting with extensions and the OPSU socket for about 3 hours to get the old one off and new one back on - Just as I was getting the $94 GM OPSU tightened down the socket slipped and snapped the OPSU in half, so... back to square one with that. (Any recommendations for less expensive replacement would be appreciated)

Decided to just move on to the clutch/transmission. So far installed new rear main, and rear housing seals with a dab of RTV on the edges of the oil pan. Got the new pilot bearing in...(after some coaxing) the new LW flywheel, and clutch assembly was installed and torqued to spec.



I ended up calling Steve because the aluminum stands for the twin disc came out when a buddy removed the clutch from the flywheel. Steve was great in helping me make sure the stands were reinstalled correctly. (Another +1 on his Customer Service)

I installed the Tick Master (which is a bitch to get routed under the brake booster and wiring harness but finally got that after about an hour) and got the speed bleeder installed as well.

Then got the self-made vented bellhousing on and torqued (I'll take some pics of that as well this week), along with wrestling the T-56 back up in there along with x-member. That's where I left it last night. Will need to finish buttoning up the torque arm mount, driveshaft and exhaust, then will pull the strut tower brace to get the intake manifold off for another replacement OPSU.

Needless to say, for some reason the car has fought me for every inch of this install, but I'm getting there and will keep you all updated.

 

Awesome write up, descriptions, and pictures!!

I pulled the plug on a Monster Clutch last week. I can't wait to get it in and installed in my 02 SS Camaro. Like you, I plan to replace the rear main seal and rear main cover seal as well. Any pointers thus far?!

I did the Tick Performance Adjustable Master Cylinder last Fall and it was quite challenging, but nothing a little patience and finesse can't handle.... Ha Ha!!

I'll be sure to do a write up with some pictures when I start my project. And I agree, Steve has answered every question I've asked him. Now is the time to buy a Monster with the sale they have going one.

 

Sounds like it was an interesting install......but i'm glad to see that you got the LT1-S in, keep us posted!!

It was good talking to you on the phone, we always welcome any questions. Let us know if any other questions come up.

 

Yeah, that thing is a PITA to get in, but you can take comfort knowing it's the last time you'll ever need to do it. I found that pulling the steering shaft out helped tremendously with the installation, FWIW.

 

Thank You! For the rear cover - The 4" PVC cap worked pretty well for alignment - It didn't seem perfect as there was a little movement (if you can spend the extra $40 on the saccitycorvette tool, I'd recommend that) but I was able to center it and keep it there while I started on the bolts. One thing to make sure of is that the rear pan bolts are not 18 ft/lbs like the cover bolts are, they're 106 in/lbs IIRC - Almost messed those suckers up but stopped myself before doing any damage.

Once you get the cover lined up, make sure to get the pan bolts snug with a little RTV before you tighten down the cover bolts all the way. Then get the cover bolts hand tight, then go back starting from the center and tighten to 18 ft/lbs like you would an intake or head - From the center and crossing back and forth outwards. That seemed to be the best way to get it together.

It was great talking with you as well Steve, thanks so much for all of your help.

As for the install, interesting is definitely one way to put it... I feel like I'm getting to old for this, at least with jack stands. Last time I did this was with a much lighter T-5 and I was 18 y/o. 14 hours into it and ALMOST done... with complete tear down, my OCD cleaning and putting back together, along with a bitchy OPSU, Master Cylinder and input shaft who just didn't want to play nicely, along with getting the torque arm to stop jacking the transmission sideways. (finally tied the sucker down to SFC out of the way)

I hope the torque arm mount, driveshaft, and exhaust don't give me any more surprises.

Very true - Lots of comfort there, "never again, never again"

The steering shaft would've probably made things a lot easier for me. I was already doing it on "hard mode" because the car is still a few feet off the ground on jack stands. So a step ladder and sitting my *** on the radiator/core support while playing pretzel with my arm.


For the record though I do not recommend trying to get at the OPSU without removing the intake. Otherwise the top of the firewall will scratch the **** out of your arms:

 

LMFAO!! my first run taking the intake manifold out, the screws in bottom of the cowl scratched the crap out of my arms. At work, one of the guys accused me of losing a fight with a cat

 

COWL! That's it, and yup, that's exactly what I kept getting asked today...

It would almost be a better story then telling people that I got into a 3 hour fight with an engine sensor... and lost

 

Finally have an update:

Between my wife ending up in the hospital and buying a house, I haven't had much time with the car, apologies for leaving you all hanging.


She's finally back together, originally had some engagement issues but that was due to something I did wrong. Took it over to a buddies shop, pulled it a part and put back together again and everything is perfect!

I will say with the Tick Master that the clutch pedal is about 1/2 inch below the brake and the throw, while very solid is very short and I love it. Once released the master cylinder pushes back on your foot for a quick release and that is with the Clutch return spring removed. Just purely on the pressure of the hydraulics does the clutch seem to be very "quick". After break-in on the clutch I can see this allowing very quick WOT shifts.

The clutch itself has a much smaller engagement window then it had previously had but I like it, and knew with a twin disc that would be the case. The lightweight flywheel for this kit does help spin the motor up a bit quicker and with some good throttle control you don't need to over rev the motor to get the car going. I can hold the engine at about 800-1k RPM to get going from a stop with no problems and feel that I didn't lose much 'drivability'.

So as long as you're a seasoned M6 driver and not in daily stop-n-go traffic I don't see this kit giving you any trouble, but honestly any manual in rush hour is a PITA.

Well that's about all I have for now - Only have had the car together for about 24 hours and put about 30 miles on it. Happy to answer any other questions that any of you guys might have.

I would add some pics but the forum isn't allowing me. As soon as it allows the attachments I'll add them.

 

Finally the servers are playing nicely for me to add photo's:




Just a shot on the lift going through it again, local shop here in Sacramento that specializes in LSx and F-Bodies called LS Pro's.




Vented Bellhousing and Tick Master connection




Additional vents for bellhousing for a total of 4 - 2 on LH side, 1 on bottom and 1 on RH side.




Had the MGW stick cut down about 1" - Not shown here but here's a shot of the MGW (Which is as good as people say) I'll get another shot later today of how the stick looks cut down.


To Steve at Monster, all the guys over at Tick and Maryland Speed for getting me the best prices out of everyone shipped to my door.

 

A truly dedicated gear head would put his wife and house on hold until his car was repaired. Otherwise, we'd have nobody to keep us company in the doghouse.

Hope your wife is doing well.

Thanks for the pics of the vented bellhousing. I've been thinking of doing that myself. Most tick installations seem to end up about 1/2" to 1" below the brake, and you are right about the engagement window being so narrow. Once I got used to it - took a day or two driving like a teenage girl - I loved it, and driving a bud's stock clutch got very frustrating.

Enjoy your creamy smooth shifting!

 

Believe me after all of the incidentals related to the install, I'm pretty sure I'm still in the doghouse!

Thanks, she is doing better and hopefully on the road to recovery.

As for the pic's happy to provide them, if anyone needs anything else about the install please let me know. I was really apprehensive about cutting the bellhousing as I was afraid it might effect the structural integrity of it, but seeing as never really hard launch the car, I figure it should hold together well. I was just so surprised at how good it all felt even with the LW flywheel. When the clutch grabs though, you better be ready for it

 

You do realize you can clip those plastic "screws" holding the cowl, don't you? Doesn't hurt a thing.

 

Hows the clutch acting?

 

Nice write-up. I'm really happy I went with Monster too. Customer service is great and I've had nothing but good luck with the clutch and Tick hydraulics up until this point.

 

Just ordered a LT1-S

 

I just took my bell housing off. What did you use to make your vents and what size are they. Did you vent near the top for heat to escape. Really want to do this after seeing this thread. Couldn't find anything about the process of venting the housing. Also are you able to drill the holes while the housing was on the car, that seams possible so that you don't have to use a vice or something to hold it. Thanks

 

Sorry been out for a while guys got a notification for a PM and came back to check up on the thread.

Its been great! I will say that it seems to engage kinda of high which I'm not a huge fan of but its been holding really well, think if I need to take it apart for any reason I might try to shim things around to see if I can get the pedal to engage down lower.

Their customer service was awesome and everything has been working great!

Congrats! I know this was months ago, hope everything went well for your install.

 

Pulling trans to do a clutch and rear main seal leak.


What is the best way to do the rear main seal that you have found out??

So i take it that its worth spending 40.00 on the tool?

And whats the torque specs the page isnt working very well on my computer


thanks