Clutch / Trans Issue
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Clutch / Trans Issue I have a 98 Z28 and have recently installed the Spec Stage 2+ clutch and Spec aluminum flywheel. My problem started with the oem clutch. I had taken to the drag strip one weekend, made my first run and did not notice the clutch peddle had gotten hung on a floor mat. It drove and seemed to be fine until the next weekend when I got her out to go for a drive. The peddle was soft and the clutch engaged as soon as the peddle left the floor. I assumed I had burnt the clutch up. Installed the new Spec equipment and a new slave cylinder. Now I have peddle feel back, but clutch still engages immediately, and trans has to be forced into gear and I cannot get into reverse. I did not change the master cylinder with the install, but now have a new one and will be installing it as soon as I can get some lift time. Anybody have a suggestion on what my problem could be?
After inspecting the old clutch, there were some hot spots on it but was still in good shape. So my original problem was most likely the master or slave cylinder.
If after changing the master cylinder the problem is not resolved, I will probably contact a local shop to have a look at it. Tick Performance is about 20 minutes from my house.
After inspecting the old clutch, there were some hot spots on it but was still in good shape. So my original problem was most likely the master or slave cylinder.
If after changing the master cylinder the problem is not resolved, I will probably contact a local shop to have a look at it. Tick Performance is about 20 minutes from my house.
If you're dead set on sticking with an OEM master, the drill mod is necessary. Here's hoping the stocker holds out for you, but honestly...just do it right with a tick/mcleod/ram unit.
Bought Tick Master (comes without the restrictor orifice)
Kicked self for not just getting the Tick.
Save yourself some trouble.
FWIW, the hose is 1/8". The restrictor puts the opening at 1/16". The purpose was to hamstring the clutch a bit to protect the Barbie 10-bolt from the combined destructive force of the LS1/T56. Slows the fluid down, so it won't hammer into gear. However, once you add the adjustable pressure plate to the mix, as the adjustor works, the return pressure weakens, causing inconsistent pedal return height. Very often, people find that to fix the inconsistent and/or dead pedal, you have to go to aftermarket non-adjustable PP AND an upgraded master. Hope the history lesson helps
Last edited by Darth_V8r; Jun 26, 2015 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Added restrictor detail
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I finally had a chance to install the new master. After vacuum bleeding the master with a mityvac I believe that my problem is now resolved. The clutch peddle is back and it feels better than when the car was new. If in the future I need to install another master I will definitely be going with one of the adjustable units, probably the Tick.
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