Does anyone have tips to bleeding a t56? Neither my tick speed bleeder or the mityvac method seem to be working. I have tried and gone through 2 bottles of fluid and there still isn't a hint of pressure.

I bench bled the master and even pumped it while disconnected from the slave and the pedal gets solid, but when I hook the mityvac up it pulls endless amounts of bubbles and the same thing with the tick speed bleeder, I pumped my pedal forever with no change.

I'm at a loss here, the only thing I can think would be wrong would be the slave or the speed bleeder seal into the slave. The slave was working fine in the other car that I got the drivetrain from (ls1 swap) but after migrating it over it won't bleed. I did the drill mod but I don't think thats my issue here.

 

Did you try this?https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-properly.html

 

I still have the stock master/slave/clutch and everything still in the car. The only thing I changed was over to the speed bleeder.

I was able to get pressure back after putting my mityvac on the speed bleeder end and pulling vacuum on it drawing the fluid through the whole system. I have a somewhat decent pedal now but when I put the pedal to the floor I can hear the TOB backing off the pressure plate and then the clutch is on the floor again but pumping the clutch brings the pedal back.

 

Honestly it sounds like either the master or slave failed if it's leaking down like that. If you disconnect the line you should need a gorilla to move the pedal - assuming you have the check valve still in place.

If the pedal will go in with the line disconnected, that would point to the master

 

Yeah the pedal is super solid when disconnected from the slave. I'm wondering if its the slave that somehow failed or if the speed bleeder is letting in air. Either way the trans is going to have to come out and I haven't even gotten to drive it yet

 

I agree. It sucks but you'll have to drop the trans. For the time involved, I would consider swapping the slave anyway cause it's cheaper than the time.

 

My thought exactly. I'm thinking about just putting the stock bleeder on and doing the two man way just to eliminate any possibility of leaks.

Where is a good place to get a new slave?

 

I got the GM slave from tick and have been very happy with it. If you can stomach it, the remote bleeder really is worth it, but I understand not wanting to take it apart a third time.

If you want, others have drilled a hole in the tunnel where the bleeder is so they can get to it in the seat. It's very tough to get a socket on and off. I left an 11mm socket on the bleeder just sitting for over a year, because it got stuck on there.

 

I'm going to give bleeding it another shot, one thing I didn't try was pumping the pedal while I had a vacuum on the reservoir tube. When I had used a power bleeder and forced fluid in, I had a nice pedal for one pump and then it went away. I do hear a gurgling noise around the master though sometimes when pumping, so I wonder if air is still somehow trapped in?

 

COuld be. The MityVac has been known to pull air in past the seals.

 

I went ahead and ordered a slave from tick. It only took me 40 mins to pull my trans by myself with no trans jack. Hopefully this fixes the issue, I want to drive the car lol.

 

Damn! That's gotta be a record!

 

I think the lt1 body has different floor boards so all of the bolts that connect the trans to the bell were super easy to reach. And having a tunnel mount torque arm meant one less thing to fuss with