2001 WS6 Clutch help!
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello all,
So about 6 months ago I bought my first WS6 after getting out of the military, and I absolutely love the car. about 2 weeks ago I noticed it getting colder so I figured it was time to put her away for the winter and start buying parts. well I get in the car and i've now noticed that the clutch no longer disengages, and with the engine running I can no longer get into gear. at all. so I got a tow to the garage where I'm storing it and got it up on jacks and as far as I can tell it appears possibly my slave cylinder is leaking. the bottom of my transmission was wet with fluid. also when I opened my reservoir to check the fluid it was bone dry. the previous owner I know installed a tick master and a spec stage 3 clutch. I attempted to bleed from the top, thinking maybe there was just a bunch of air in the system but when I hooked up a mighty vac and put vacuum to the reservoir it was pulling continuous amounts of air from the system, as if to indicate a leak letting air in. so my question now is how do I disconnect the line on the slave? I intend to disconnect the slave cylinder and test the master by pushing the clutch pedal. if the master is working then it should be firm because from what I've researched there is a check valve in the very end of the line that closes when the line is disconnected. ive never encountered this sort of fitting before and would rather not destroy it. I'm trying to determine if I have a leaking slave or my master isn't working, or if I need to try and bleed it the traditional way. the only reason I haven't done that is because I don't exactly have anymore willing and able to give me a hand. any and all help would be appreciated!
So about 6 months ago I bought my first WS6 after getting out of the military, and I absolutely love the car. about 2 weeks ago I noticed it getting colder so I figured it was time to put her away for the winter and start buying parts. well I get in the car and i've now noticed that the clutch no longer disengages, and with the engine running I can no longer get into gear. at all. so I got a tow to the garage where I'm storing it and got it up on jacks and as far as I can tell it appears possibly my slave cylinder is leaking. the bottom of my transmission was wet with fluid. also when I opened my reservoir to check the fluid it was bone dry. the previous owner I know installed a tick master and a spec stage 3 clutch. I attempted to bleed from the top, thinking maybe there was just a bunch of air in the system but when I hooked up a mighty vac and put vacuum to the reservoir it was pulling continuous amounts of air from the system, as if to indicate a leak letting air in. so my question now is how do I disconnect the line on the slave? I intend to disconnect the slave cylinder and test the master by pushing the clutch pedal. if the master is working then it should be firm because from what I've researched there is a check valve in the very end of the line that closes when the line is disconnected. ive never encountered this sort of fitting before and would rather not destroy it. I'm trying to determine if I have a leaking slave or my master isn't working, or if I need to try and bleed it the traditional way. the only reason I haven't done that is because I don't exactly have anymore willing and able to give me a hand. any and all help would be appreciated!
#2
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Warshington
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is a white plastic looking sleeve on the line going into the slave, you are going to push the sleeve into the fitting (towards the slave) about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Then you are going to push the line into the slave a little bit and then pull it out. Should come right out. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your Service!
Thank you for your Service!
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thank you for your response! ive been a aircraft mechanic for 6 years now and its hard being kinda a newb to cars. I'm just trying to be 100% sure my slave is leaking before I begin the project of dropping my transmission. which itself doesn't look to be difficult, just tedious as I have the car on jackstands and don't have a lift.
#4
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Warshington
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No problem, I will be pulling and disassembling my trans over the winter the same way, jack stands and in the garage. Word of advise if you do pull the trans, separate the trans from the bell housing first. Makes it alot easier.
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
that's what I've heard, I've also been told the top bolts on the bell housing and trans are quite a pain. I'm overjoyed haha. another newb question I have is where exactly is the master cylinder? I've tried to trace the line from the reservoir and it goes down but I cant exactly see to where or how to get access to it.
#6
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Warshington
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Haha.....yeah me too, its already in the 20's here.
The Master cylinder is small and tucked behind/under the brake booster around the 7 o'clock position. If I remember right
The Master cylinder is small and tucked behind/under the brake booster around the 7 o'clock position. If I remember right
#7
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just pulled my tranny and bolted it back up. Despite the horror stories I didn't find the 2 top bolts in the tranny to be an issue. Just have a nice long extension. When you pull the trans cross member (with a jack underneath it) let the rear of the tranny down a bit and let it roll the engine and trans back. This makes reaching the 2 top bolts pretty easy.
The 2 top bolts on the bell housing were a bear. I had to stick wood wedges between the top of the bell housing and body of the car. This rolled the engine back far enough for me to get a socket on the top 2 bolts. The rest was cake. Hope this helps.
The 2 top bolts on the bell housing were a bear. I had to stick wood wedges between the top of the bell housing and body of the car. This rolled the engine back far enough for me to get a socket on the top 2 bolts. The rest was cake. Hope this helps.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
thanks for the advice guys! tomorrow I'm going to see If my master is functioning, if so ill try to adjust it since its a tick adjustable. pulling the tans is my last option.