Mcleod twin disk issue
Mcleod twin disk issue Installed my original street twin after getting it back from them for a full rebuild. Just installed trans and tye driveshaft etc... Went to go for a test drive, but car went nowhere. It can only go in gear with clutch pedal depressed (obviously). But when i let go of pedal, it does nothing. Its as if the clutch is t engaging... Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Gonna pull trans tonight. I have a feeling my throwout bearing is caught up on the pressure plate fingers... One of the trchs at mcleod had suggested that as well. I did a big no no and pulled trans in with a bolt. That could have been part of the issue. Any other ideas out there?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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You really need to get the discs alignment right or when you stab the tranny and the splines do go through the disc splines but because the disc itself is slightly not centered the input shaft tip hits the edge of the pilot bearing preventing it from going in that last 1/2". You are just killing the pilot bearing pulling the tranny in with bolts
on the engagement issue, or lack of it, something not right with the clutch install...
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 113
Typically but not always immediately. You just did the clutch swap so no real miles/use yet
Just take a look at it when you get the clutch out. Visual should tell you. Look for any witness mark on the inside edge of bearing and run your finger around inside and "feel" if all seems smooth. It very well may be fine but obviously ifi t did take a hit, now is the time to replace it
Tip on clutch disc alignment I find helps. Put pressure towards the motor straight in on the clutch alignment tool vs just letting the discs "hang" on it while tightening PP bolts enough to hold the discs. Look all around the disc and/or run your fingers around it to see/feel if there is symmetry all around or if the disc or PP are "slightly" off on one side. You want it = even around in relationship to the PP surface.
so clutch will "disengage" allowing you to put in gear but when you release pedal it does not "engage"?
will the tranny go in gear, motor running, if you don't push in clutch??
Just take a look at it when you get the clutch out. Visual should tell you. Look for any witness mark on the inside edge of bearing and run your finger around inside and "feel" if all seems smooth. It very well may be fine but obviously ifi t did take a hit, now is the time to replace it
Tip on clutch disc alignment I find helps. Put pressure towards the motor straight in on the clutch alignment tool vs just letting the discs "hang" on it while tightening PP bolts enough to hold the discs. Look all around the disc and/or run your fingers around it to see/feel if there is symmetry all around or if the disc or PP are "slightly" off on one side. You want it = even around in relationship to the PP surface.
so clutch will "disengage" allowing you to put in gear but when you release pedal it does not "engage"?
will the tranny go in gear, motor running, if you don't push in clutch??
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Transmission will not go in gear.
I found the issue tonight. Im a bit embarrassed because i know better. Looked at pilot bearing and all is well. Pulled the transmission obviously. Replaced with a spare oem slave. Same issue. Pulled transmission out just about an inch and bam! Could not spin driveshaft! Clutch is now enaging properly. Had someone under the bellhousing to inspect as i attempt to put transmission on. Slave cylinder is bottoming out before the trans is mated to the bellhousing!!! This only meant one thing. Pulled transmission out again and installed a busted input shaft into the clucth. Could not spin. Only logical thought in my mind is that pressure plate fingers, or the plate itself os protruding too far!!! Look at how i installed it and realized i did not align my floater plate straps to the raised lip portion of the pressure plate!!! This was causing the pressure plate to be about 3/4-1 in too far out! I feel like a moron, but am glad i found the issue. Ive included pictures of my stupidity! Note how the floater plate bolts are digging into the pressure plate!
Notice how the raised lip portion of the pressure plate is not where its supposed to be in correlation to the floater plate straps!
Now only one major issue. Apparently one of my flywheel "studs" is stripped. I guess ill just have to call mcleod tomorrow and order a new set! Problem should all be solved then!!!
I found the issue tonight. Im a bit embarrassed because i know better. Looked at pilot bearing and all is well. Pulled the transmission obviously. Replaced with a spare oem slave. Same issue. Pulled transmission out just about an inch and bam! Could not spin driveshaft! Clutch is now enaging properly. Had someone under the bellhousing to inspect as i attempt to put transmission on. Slave cylinder is bottoming out before the trans is mated to the bellhousing!!! This only meant one thing. Pulled transmission out again and installed a busted input shaft into the clucth. Could not spin. Only logical thought in my mind is that pressure plate fingers, or the plate itself os protruding too far!!! Look at how i installed it and realized i did not align my floater plate straps to the raised lip portion of the pressure plate!!! This was causing the pressure plate to be about 3/4-1 in too far out! I feel like a moron, but am glad i found the issue. Ive included pictures of my stupidity! Note how the floater plate bolts are digging into the pressure plate!
Notice how the raised lip portion of the pressure plate is not where its supposed to be in correlation to the floater plate straps!
Now only one major issue. Apparently one of my flywheel "studs" is stripped. I guess ill just have to call mcleod tomorrow and order a new set! Problem should all be solved then!!!
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