Mcleod twin slipping
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Just finished reinstalled my new street twin. It disengages fine... I have my adjustable master bottomed out being as short as possible. Anytime i give it more than a 1/5 of gas, it slips imiadiately... Anyone have ideas? Do i remove a shim?
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the shims that are "pre-installed' on the Twin are for the correct spacing between bottom disc & floater plate. Twin comes assembled with them and you put them back on the stands they came from
Sounds line the TO/Slave is to far forward keeping pressure on PP and clutch is not fully engaging
Is there a shim behind the slave?
did you have to use the tranny bolts to draw in the tranny?
is answer is yes to both....remove that shim behind slave
Sounds line the TO/Slave is to far forward keeping pressure on PP and clutch is not fully engaging
Is there a shim behind the slave?
did you have to use the tranny bolts to draw in the tranny?
is answer is yes to both....remove that shim behind slave
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No shim to slave. However had to use bolt to drive trans in ever so slightly. I agree however that the slave/ throwout bearing is keeping constant pressure on the fingers. Wwe did mess with the 3 bolts that keep tension on fingers. I think thats the problem. Called mcleod... They said to make sure the finger bolts are 35ft lbs. im not sure if maybe that will pull the fingers in more or not but i hope it does
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Did McLeod advise if a particular slave, if not stock one, should be used with the 3 finger PP (vs their diaphragm PP).
The fact you needed to pull the tranny in with the bolts and you note the TO/slave is always putting pressure on the PP fingers makes me think you need a slightly shorter TO/slave. IIRC there are a few sizes available
I know it is a PIA to pull tranny chasing WTF a issue is. Been there and done that more times than I care to admit on my car
looks like the re-torque to 35 ft lbs resolved the lose PP finger. It is possible the offending one was sticking out more causing the TO contact and the non full engagement issue. Obviously you could just stab the tranny back in to see if it now works right but a phone call to Billy or Lee in Tech at McLeod could answer the ? about the possibility of needing a different (shorter) TO bearing
The fact you needed to pull the tranny in with the bolts and you note the TO/slave is always putting pressure on the PP fingers makes me think you need a slightly shorter TO/slave. IIRC there are a few sizes available
I know it is a PIA to pull tranny chasing WTF a issue is. Been there and done that more times than I care to admit on my car
looks like the re-torque to 35 ft lbs resolved the lose PP finger. It is possible the offending one was sticking out more causing the TO contact and the non full engagement issue. Obviously you could just stab the tranny back in to see if it now works right but a phone call to Billy or Lee in Tech at McLeod could answer the ? about the possibility of needing a different (shorter) TO bearing
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Billy mentioned that it should only have 3 shims for the pressure plate. Mine had 4. I was advised to remove one and check clearances... I suck with these measurements... I get a diff reading each time lol
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When you measure, you gotta crack the bleeder and compress the slave all the way in. If you're getting a negative number with the slave fully compressed, and there's no shims to remove, you need to get with the manufacturer