I'm trying to bleed the hydraulics on my t56 magnum and I'm running into some issues. I started by filling the system using a Phoenix systems bleeder and pushing it up through the slave to the reservoir. I opened the bleeder, pumped the pedal one time, close the bleeder and let the pedal return. I did this about 6 times never letting the reservoir get completely empty. With the bleeder closed you cannot move the pedal, its hard as a rock. The pedal will only move with the bleeder open.
Is it possible I have a bad master? The only thing I did to the slave was install the remote bleeder line. Master and slave are both factory F body style.

Can anyone point me in the direction of how I should go about bleeding this system?

 

I've always done it the old fashioned way. Use Phillips head to push in the check valve while assistant pushes pedal. Add fluid to reservoir. Repeat as nauseum.

Once I stop getting bursts of air out the check valve I connect the line, and bleed the rest out the slave.

I got a friend who cracked the bleeder and filled his system from the bottom like a clutch fluid enema. He said it worked perfectly

 

I've seen a couple videos where they are basically burping the master. If I filled the system through the slave, its reasonable to think all the air would be trapped at the check valve in the master, correct?

 

Is there anything I could have left on the slave that would stop it from extending?

 

Filling through the slave means you're filling it through the bleeder, which is at the top. Less than ideal!
The helper at the pedal method (or a one-way bleeder) means you should be able to bleed traditionally and in addition, route the fluid into the reservoir (to re-use the fluid) and all air should be gone quick.
If your bleeder / slave aren't leaking. Some were made with a fitting that didn't seal.

 

No leaks anywhere. I thought I read somewhere the it was actually better to do it this way than pressure from the res. I'm pulling the trans to check the slave no and make sure it works. Don't have anyone that can get over to help me right now so I'm stuck trying to do it on my own.

 

Made some progress without dropping the trans. The only thing that I had yet to try was vacuum bleeding the master. I removed the reservoir and hooked my bleeder up for vacuum, bubbles started to flow. Big bubbles. Did this until no bubbles were present. When I pressed the pedal with the bleeder closed, I got movement. I started some traditional bleeding, opening the bleeder and pressing the pedal, then closing the bleeder before letting the pedal up. Now that I know its a bleeding issue and not mechanical I'll do more when I get some assistance.

Thanks for all the feedback...

 

I have solid motor mounts and I had to drill a hole through the floor to get the bleeder on the slave. Not ideal but it made one man bleeding very easy lol

 

Where did you drill? Please tell me that you have a picture. This is something that I want to be able to do on my own.

 

I'm officially done , my 1999 SS was my favorite purchase always wanted a Six speed and now I am the sorriest person ever.
ive read years of threads about this sticky clutch problem and have paid thousand upon thousands of dollars chasing a stupid problem and still not resolved, new slave, new master, rebuilt trans, new pressure plate, new throwout bearing, upgraded clutch, upgraded trans kit, replaced slave again tick performance, upgraded MC, bled and bled, changed flywheel, changed pressure plate again my ******* pedal still sticks to floor and can't shift , low rpms, high rpms doesn't matter. I give up!!!! Going to sell it to the next sucker.

PS 1999 SS Z28 for sale lots of new parts
Garage kept, immaculent condition barely driven. Has t tops. long tube headers & cat delete only mods done. Asking $7900.