Hey guys,

so last week my brother decided to sell to sell me his 2001 M6 Z28. The car has 80,XXX original miles.

he installed a Centerfoece DFX clutch with a Fidanza flywheel, but had been having issues since the installation.

On take off, he would get some sort of grinding noise, and sometimes he would have issues shifting gears. The car/transmission ran flawlessly before with a Ram clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel.

So over the weekend, I decided to drop the tranny and inspect things. The Centwrforce clutch and Fidanza flywheel haven’t even hit the break-in point, so I’m not sure what happened. He installed brand new OE slave cylinder and master cylinder.

I am attaching pictures to see what you guys suggest, or to listen to any comments you guys have. Any comments/suggestions are welcome. Thank you in advance.

Ill attach pictures in a moment. I’m on my phone.

 

Pics attached. It was dark out, so the picture quality might not be the best.

 

A little late but do u recall how shifting through all the gears felt with the car off? Also while idling

 

 

clutch looks OK....puc disc clutches do "chatter" on engagement if you slip them if that is the noise you describe.

sounds like you have disengagement issues typically due to failing hydraulics or one that needs bleeding

PO said he put in new hydraulics. If it was a complete "sealed" unit with MC/slave/reservoir attached they don't need bleeding. Swapping just MC or slave you break open the system so it needs to be bleed.

Is the plastic cup still on the end of the slave rod?

was clutch pedal firm or spongy with dead movement initially?

 

While you've got it apart, I'd suggest replacing the pilot bearing as well.

 

looks to me like the disk springs are contacting the flywheel bolts?? That could explain the grinding and even chatter to a point. maybe swap to shallower head flywheel bolts?

 

Thanks for all of the help guys. The hydraulic components are all OE style units that he purchased from the local O'Reilly Auto Parts store. He also added a remote bleeder, which I'm thinking he might not have bled the system all the way.

The flywheel bolts are ARP. I'm not sure if the stock bolts have a lower head on them?

I will go ahead an replace the pilot bearing. I was thinking about doing the "drill mod" to the clutch line to see if that helps. I will check to see if the cup is still there.

Do you guys think I can reuse the clutch?

 

Now I see where you say the disc is contacting the bolts! I hadn't noticed that. Thank you for pointing that out.

I'm starting not to like this clutch. I believe he had a Ram clutch before that gave him no issues.

 

Not sure, maybe send Ram a picture and see what they think. I'd look for markings stating which side goes to motor. Maybe it is as simple as it being installed backwards?

 

This was actually a Centerforc DFX clutch. I’m going to get in contact with them to see what they say. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Stock bolts are much lower than those shitty ARP bolts.

or ARP flex plate bolts have a shallow head on them and have the same bolt length etc. Although if your flywheel has recesses for the bolt head, not sure how they will work with that.

In this case, ensure the friction disc is the correct way round and if contact with the bolts persists...just fit GM bolts.

And a little lube on the splines, ( after cleaning them ) as yours look dry as ****.

 

Definitely this...you can see it in the flywheel pic...also when you go back together, use a little bit of spline lube. You can see in that first picture how dry the input splines and disc splines are...

 

^^^^ this, you can also see corresponding witness marks on the hub springs of the disc

ARP bolts are good BUT you need to run the shallow head ones specific for FW use..or stock ones

 

The ARP bolts intended for manual trans flywheels are the ones with the very tall heads.

The low profile ones are aimed towards flex plate/auto usage.

 

Great! Thanks for that pic. I will definitely use some spline lube during install.

I will look into the stock GM bolts, or the flexplate/auto tranny bolts.

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I have been scratching my head trying to figure out what to do.

 

Well it's either a new clutch that will work with the tall ARP's, or just use OEM or flex plate bolts, whichever is best suited to whatever flywheel you intend to use.

That said, a different flywheel might also be thinner in that area and might be ok with the tall ARP bolts.

 

I have an LQ4 sitting in my engine stand with flexplate bolts, I'm guessing they're the same bolts used for flywheel/M6 engines? This is not the LQ4 with the longer crank.

I'm going to take those bolts out and use them. I had forgot all about them haha.

 

I've never seen OEM flex plate bolts so couldnt say. I dont do autos ! lol ( been tempted lately though...but still not for me just yet )

 

GM FW bolts

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...make/chevrolet