Suggestions on what to do next...
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Suggestions on what to do next... Hey guys,
so last week my brother decided to sell to sell me his 2001 M6 Z28. The car has 80,XXX original miles.
he installed a Centerfoece DFX clutch with a Fidanza flywheel, but had been having issues since the installation.
On take off, he would get some sort of grinding noise, and sometimes he would have issues shifting gears. The car/transmission ran flawlessly before with a Ram clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
So over the weekend, I decided to drop the tranny and inspect things. The Centwrforce clutch and Fidanza flywheel haven’t even hit the break-in point, so I’m not sure what happened. He installed brand new OE slave cylinder and master cylinder.
I am attaching pictures to see what you guys suggest, or to listen to any comments you guys have. Any comments/suggestions are welcome. Thank you in advance.
Ill attach pictures in a moment. I’m on my phone.
so last week my brother decided to sell to sell me his 2001 M6 Z28. The car has 80,XXX original miles.
he installed a Centerfoece DFX clutch with a Fidanza flywheel, but had been having issues since the installation.
On take off, he would get some sort of grinding noise, and sometimes he would have issues shifting gears. The car/transmission ran flawlessly before with a Ram clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
So over the weekend, I decided to drop the tranny and inspect things. The Centwrforce clutch and Fidanza flywheel haven’t even hit the break-in point, so I’m not sure what happened. He installed brand new OE slave cylinder and master cylinder.
I am attaching pictures to see what you guys suggest, or to listen to any comments you guys have. Any comments/suggestions are welcome. Thank you in advance.
Ill attach pictures in a moment. I’m on my phone.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Shifting while idling was normal. It wasn’t until you actually got on it that it became a bit difficult getting it from 1st to 2nd gear. At take off, you could actually hear a grindingly noise. I’m not sure if it was just the clutch disc gripping the flywheel. What do you think about how the clutch and flywheel look. Does that look normal?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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clutch looks OK....puc disc clutches do "chatter" on engagement if you slip them if that is the noise you describe.
sounds like you have disengagement issues typically due to failing hydraulics or one that needs bleeding
PO said he put in new hydraulics. If it was a complete "sealed" unit with MC/slave/reservoir attached they don't need bleeding. Swapping just MC or slave you break open the system so it needs to be bleed.
Is the plastic cup still on the end of the slave rod?
was clutch pedal firm or spongy with dead movement initially?
sounds like you have disengagement issues typically due to failing hydraulics or one that needs bleeding
PO said he put in new hydraulics. If it was a complete "sealed" unit with MC/slave/reservoir attached they don't need bleeding. Swapping just MC or slave you break open the system so it needs to be bleed.
Is the plastic cup still on the end of the slave rod?
was clutch pedal firm or spongy with dead movement initially?
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Thanks for all of the help guys. The hydraulic components are all OE style units that he purchased from the local O'Reilly Auto Parts store. He also added a remote bleeder, which I'm thinking he might not have bled the system all the way.
The flywheel bolts are ARP. I'm not sure if the stock bolts have a lower head on them?
I will go ahead an replace the pilot bearing. I was thinking about doing the "drill mod" to the clutch line to see if that helps. I will check to see if the cup is still there.
Do you guys think I can reuse the clutch?
The flywheel bolts are ARP. I'm not sure if the stock bolts have a lower head on them?
I will go ahead an replace the pilot bearing. I was thinking about doing the "drill mod" to the clutch line to see if that helps. I will check to see if the cup is still there.
Do you guys think I can reuse the clutch?
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Now I see where you say the disc is contacting the bolts
! I hadn't noticed that. Thank you for pointing that out.
I'm starting not to like this clutch. I believe he had a Ram clutch before that gave him no issues.
! I hadn't noticed that. Thank you for pointing that out. I'm starting not to like this clutch. I believe he had a Ram clutch before that gave him no issues.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
Stock bolts are much lower than those shitty ARP bolts.
or ARP flex plate bolts have a shallow head on them and have the same bolt length etc. Although if your flywheel has recesses for the bolt head, not sure how they will work with that.
In this case, ensure the friction disc is the correct way round and if contact with the bolts persists...just fit GM bolts.
And a little lube on the splines, ( after cleaning them ) as yours look dry as ****.
or ARP flex plate bolts have a shallow head on them and have the same bolt length etc. Although if your flywheel has recesses for the bolt head, not sure how they will work with that.
In this case, ensure the friction disc is the correct way round and if contact with the bolts persists...just fit GM bolts.
And a little lube on the splines, ( after cleaning them ) as yours look dry as ****.
Definitely this...you can see it in the flywheel pic...also when you go back together, use a little bit of spline lube. You can see in that first picture how dry the input splines and disc splines are...
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ARP bolts are good BUT you need to run the shallow head ones specific for FW use..or stock ones
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
The low profile ones are aimed towards flex plate/auto usage.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Great! Thanks for that pic. I will definitely use some spline lube during install.
I will look into the stock GM bolts, or the flexplate/auto tranny bolts.
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I have been scratching my head trying to figure out what to do.
I will look into the stock GM bolts, or the flexplate/auto tranny bolts.
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I have been scratching my head trying to figure out what to do.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
Well it's either a new clutch that will work with the tall ARP's, or just use OEM or flex plate bolts, whichever is best suited to whatever flywheel you intend to use.
That said, a different flywheel might also be thinner in that area and might be ok with the tall ARP bolts.
That said, a different flywheel might also be thinner in that area and might be ok with the tall ARP bolts.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Well it's either a new clutch that will work with the tall ARP's, or just use OEM or flex plate bolts, whichever is best suited to whatever flywheel you intend to use.
That said, a different flywheel might also be thinner in that area and might be ok with the tall ARP bolts.
That said, a different flywheel might also be thinner in that area and might be ok with the tall ARP bolts.
I'm going to take those bolts out and use them. I had forgot all about them haha.
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