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Sounds good, I'll try getting at it tonight. I am hopefully that since the clutch is smaller in diameter that I may be able to do this while leaving the bellhousing on.
The plastic install tool is absolute garbage on twin disc clutches. You have absolutely no leverage, you cannot see since it is typically bottomed out as well. I know McLeod said they were releasing an extended steel install tool on Instagram a few months ago, but I use an old input shaft now.
Used to have issues getting it lined up, dropped the trans back out and redoing the PP install several times. Use an input shaft and bam, perfect everytime.
What on earth do you need leverage for ? They're just for aligning the discs, not operating the clutch !
RAM 03-13 is a metal tool if need something to beat stuff with.
Sounds good, I'll try getting at it tonight. I am hopefully that since the clutch is smaller in diameter that I may be able to do this while leaving the bellhousing on.
Well I got the trans back out, which actually took a bit of effort. The alignment tool goes in (with a bit of effort when it gets to the pilot) for about 180° but then it will not go in the other 180° of rotation. Visually it looks pretty lined up, not sure how to feel with your fingers around the disk - maybe this clutch set up is a little different than most? Also it is a small enough diameter that I can get on all the bolts with the bellhousing still installed, so I might as well try to align it with that still on.
I can see some marks in the face of the pilot, any reason to be concerned that the actual bearing would be damaged? I did put some force on the tranny with rope wrapped around the back, and by using a small crowbar from inside the car (Not so much that it would deform the cutout in the trans tunnel). Some of the marks are from when I put it in the crank too.
also my last thought of a possible issue is the new slave, it looks slightly different and is slightly longer than my original, however monster assures me that it is the right one and the difference is a dust cover.
I'm quite sure you got them correct, I just thought it best to mention it.
With the trans now out I verified it is correct. I can read "transmission side" labeled on it. Also even though this is a twin disk there is just one (longer?) hub that the input shaft goes through, the other disk I believe is internal to the pressure plate assembly. It is a factory C7 vette clutch.
I dont think it's longer, I think your old slave is just knackered.
The marks on the bearing could be from installation ? But the needles etc all look to be ok, so I wouldnt be too worried about that
With that large single spline on the discs, it should make it even easier to get everything aligned smoothly.
I figured that shouldn't affect the needles but just wanted to make sure. And it may be easier, but I still managed to mess it up haha. It is my first time though so hopefully I can get it straightened out and laugh about this later.
You can see by the witness mark on the pilot that the disc alignment was off quite a bit.
The bearing looks to be OK.
Yeah I see you can access PP bolts with BH on, I don't have a LSx
Given the shape of the hat (PP) feeling around edge doesn't look like that would work to see if disc was even all the way around as the casting extends past the disc contact area. If bell housing wasn't on you should be able to see though
You are not alone in having to pull tranny and realign disc before...
I've switched to longer dowels on some of the engines I needed to pull more often, If you have the bell-housing room its great.
If you can access the pressure plate with the bell on you just put the pilot tool in and compress the pressure plate , I made a handle with a swivel and tube so I could push on the throw-out bearing surface and release the clutch so the tool could easily align the disks. I used 3' of pipe for a handle and a random piece of 2.5" tube for the anvil.
You can see by the witness mark on the pilot that the disc alignment was off quite a bit.
The bearing looks to be OK.
The marks could be from when I was struggling with it 1-1.5" out vs the 0.5" I ended up getting it to. At .5" out, the shaft must have been in the pilot a bit at least.
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
I've switched to longer dowels on some of the engines I needed to pull more often, If you have the bell-housing room its great.
If you can access the pressure plate with the bell on you just put the pilot tool in and compress the pressure plate , I made a handle with a swivel and tube so I could push on the throw-out bearing surface and release the clutch so the tool could easily align the disks. I used 3' of pipe for a handle and a random piece of 2.5" tube for the anvil.
How exactly did you get enough force to compress the pressure plate? I already broke the PP bolts loose, hopefully get it aligned and try getting the trans in on Thursday.
The marks could be from when I was struggling with it 1-1.5" out vs the 0.5" I ended up getting it to. At .5" out, the shaft must have been in the pilot a bit at least.
.
No...the tip was not in the pilot. you were just compressing the slave with all the pulling/prying you exerted on tranny. Had you put even more force on the tranny you would have started to push the pilot further into the crank. Had you used bolts you may have even striped the threads on bell housing trying to get it in as the input shaft was quite a bit off...not just "barely" catching the edge of pilot
I bought a metal alignment tool from summit just to not have as much trouble getting trans in anymore. It’s made by keyser or a similar name.
But really after about the 15 times or more I’ve put one in with the plastic tool I’ve gotten good at it. On two different cars when I’ve had lots of trouble getting the trans to slide in that last little bit I have taken a jack and put it up under the bell housing and jacked up a few inches. Amazingly after that the trans would slide right on in.
With the trans out of the car I’ve noticed the engine will lean back against the firewall. So basically without the trans bolted to the engine and the trans mount holding the trans in place the engine sits at a slight angle from when everything is bolted in place.
Ive pulled them in with bolts before which I do not recommend and just dent the outside of the pilot bearing a bit.
I say say align it best you can with the plastic tool then measure from each side of tool. That way you can see if if it’s cocked to one side or not. That should help to get it centered better. If you can wait get a metal tool or an old input shaft. Even then it’s not gonna be easy to slide the trans right into place.
Last edited by nmass399; Mar 21, 2018 at 01:37 PM.
I think my alignment tool is a little deformed and not true. With some help this time I was able to get the clutch disk aligned so the alignment tool will now go in with less effort, and in any orientation. Hope the trans will slide in now, gonna give it another try this weekend.
Well after the realignment it went in the furthest it has, but it's still sitting 0.25" away. Just doesn't seem to want to pop in the last bit, but I'll keep trying.
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