Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

The last inch

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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 06:15 PM
  #61  
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Looks like the rear of the trans needs to be higher, or front of the engine higher.

Ensure the trans face is parallel to the BH face.

If it helps stick a bolt or two into the top to carry some of the weight and then give the trans a good wiggle/shake to help it in.

Once on the dowels it'd be ok to use the bolts, but really you should not need to, but never from an inch away
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 06:36 PM
  #62  
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the gap on top looks bigger than bottom. Either drop motor a little or raise rear of tranny until that gap is =...wiggle & slide it should go in

IDK if the T.O./Slave is holding it back and if you would need to crack the bleed open a little to collapse it some...maybe someone can advise on that

At that distance the tip of the input shaft should be "inside" the pilot
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 10:42 AM
  #63  
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Well I tried that and it just won't go. I use a flathead screwdriver as a feeler gauge to make sure the gap is equal all around. The "check valve" on my speed bleeder is completely removed, so the slave should be able to compress. With being this close it must be aligned. I'll try a little more, but I might have to resort to hand threading the bolts to try and bring it in evenly.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 08:01 PM
  #64  
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I have to ask everyone. How far does the input shaft slide into the pilot bearing? I'm pretty sure his is already in and he is now just up against the throw out bearing spring. I had this happen on mine where it stopped 3/8" out from fully seating. I pushed in my bearing spring by hand and it was just about all I had to push it in to seat and hold it.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 09:44 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Crf450r420
I have to ask everyone. How far does the input shaft slide into the pilot bearing? I'm pretty sure his is already in and he is now just up against the throw out bearing spring. I had this happen on mine where it stopped 3/8" out from fully seating. I pushed in my bearing spring by hand and it was just about all I had to push it in to seat and hold it.
Originally Posted by ******
At that distance the tip of the input shaft should be "inside" the pilot
The pilot is about 3/4" deep. The tip would be inside it at this point....could try pulling it in using a "X" pattern using the bolts. If very little resistance on the ratchet you should be good. If you have to crank on the ratchet, don't.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 10:06 PM
  #66  
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Put the 8:00 and 4:00 bolts in. Raise the tail. Put the top two bolts in, lower the tail, etc
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 09:14 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ******
The pilot is about 3/4" deep. The tip would be inside it at this point....could try pulling it in using a "X" pattern using the bolts. If very little resistance on the ratchet you should be good. If you have to crank on the ratchet, don't.
I won't be using a ratchet, gonna use a nut driver so theres less mechanical advantage. If there is too much resistance I will regroup.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 11:19 AM
  #68  
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You shouldn't need a lot torque so that should work.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:04 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Crf450r420
I have to ask everyone. How far does the input shaft slide into the pilot bearing? I'm pretty sure his is already in and he is now just up against the throw out bearing spring. I had this happen on mine where it stopped 3/8" out from fully seating. I pushed in my bearing spring by hand and it was just about all I had to push it in to seat and hold it.
you can measure all that even with the clutch in to see how far it will go in.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:09 PM
  #70  
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If your supporting the trans at the front with a jack you may never get it to go in. As long as your not prying the trans from side to side on the clutch discs it will be fine resting the trans on them.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:54 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Crf450r420
You shouldn't need a lot torque so that should work.
It ended up working. Like you said, you can't get much torque with the but driver so fingers crossed theres no damage and all works well. I did notice that once the trans crossmember was in that the trans went up in the back a bit.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 11:58 PM
  #72  
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Had to pull it in with the bolts well would ya look at that
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 05:41 AM
  #73  
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From: Norn Iron
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Originally Posted by big hammer
Had to pull it in with the bolts well would ya look at that

From an inch away ? No he didnt.
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 10:00 AM
  #74  
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1" away=no because the input shaft is hitting the pilot
1/4" away=yes because the input shaft is then "inside" the pilot

OP re-aligned the disc to get it from 1" away to then 1/4"...initially there was a disc alignment issue...1/4" away there was the TO spring giving resistance
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 08:47 PM
  #75  
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So he had to use the bolts...
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 01:38 PM
  #76  
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He chose to use the bolts as he was unable to push the trans in from a few mm away, for whatever reason.
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 01:45 PM
  #77  
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So the bolts worked good awesome
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 09:00 PM
  #78  
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Yup, thanks for all the help guys. Still have to fill the trans fluid and bleed the hydraulics before it's ready to go. It might snow here again this weekend, hopefully they don't put any more chemicals down on the roads so I can take it for a test drive soon.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 06:44 PM
  #79  
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Went for my first 10 mile drive and didn't notice any odd noises (other than it being loud from not having the #6 boot on, or center counsel back together). Thanks again for all of your help.
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 05:56 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by z-camaro
Went for my first 10 mile drive and didn't notice any odd noises (other than it being loud from not having the #6 boot on, or center counsel back together). Thanks again for all of your help.
Nice to see that it can be done off jack stands/ramps and by a first time installer. I'm going to do this same install soon and hope all goes smoothly.
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