Majozak

Hey Everybody,

I have an 01 WS6 M6 and I've been using the Ranger Method on a semi-regular basis to keep my clutch fluid clean.

In the last couple weeks I've had my clutch stick and I had to turn off the car and press the clutch several times to get it to behave enough to get going again. After these occurrences it was fine afterwards.

I've done the ranger method recently and had clear fluid. I'll try it again tonight, but I'm wondering if it makes sense to try having a professional do a fluid swap, or if I'd be wasting my time and need to move on to the next set of suggestion on the stickies?

BALLSS

not sure if you are experiencing a soft pedal or one that does not return

the ranger method makes for good maintenance but won't "fix" a failing MC or slave

Majozak

The pedal is not returning and the clutch is not disengaging, which caused the engine to kill at a stop sign for example.

When I pumped the pedal a little bit I was able to get it to disengage and the pedal seemed to get a little more resistance to it, which allowed me to continue on.

I'm not sure what work has been done to the T56 but the car has 87k on it. I've owned it for 10k miles and have performed the ranger method 4 or 5 times.

I did have a buddy who's a master mechanic take a peek inside the tranny a while back and he said the gears themselves look fine. I'm not sure what else he would have been able to see with his scope, but he didn't see anything worth reporting.

SLP IROC-Z

iTrader: (14)

Replace the master at the least. Id highly recommend doing the slave and since youre in there replace the clutch

Majozak

Thanks. How big of a job is that?

BALLSS

look at your master cylinder for any signs of leak. This is the most likely cause

if no leak than look under car for any clutch fluid leak under the bellhousing. If so your slave is leaking which requires the tranny to be pulled to access.....and at that point if the clutch has high miles or is otherwise worn, replace the clutch while tranny is out

Is the reservoir full or have you been loosing fluid??

Master cylinder replace does not require the tranny to be dropped to replace but you will need to bleed the hydraulics once new MC is installed

Bleeding can be difficult but doable

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The Ranger method does a very partial change and doesn't clear the gunk out. Mity Vac method is a joke, as well. Just read this old thread which covers what you need:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...id-clutch.html

Majozak

Thanks. It looks like I need to try to bleed the hydraulics first, which I will try.

If I take it to a reputable shop will they be able to get the "gunk" out (properly swap the fluid) and therefore have to bleed the system anyway?

BALLSS

The "ranger" method certainly is not a "complete flush"...just like a tranny service where you do filter & fluid. You basically only replace about 1/3 of the fluid on a tranny service

So on the hydraulics same thing with ranger method.....but doing that multiple times gets at least 80+% of the old fluid out. Yeah you may have to do it 4-5 times but it is a VERY simple process

Disconnecting the hydraulic line from the slave means a much larger job. That is why some people install a "speed bleeder" when they do a clutch and new slave. Makes bleeding simpler...but the catch is the speed bleeder needs to be installed

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The force of your foot on the pedal will.push gunk out as best as anything.
The bleeder location within the slave assy. will allow air to rise and fall out of suspension.
You can swap the fluid out 100% by multiple flushes. But if you use one of the bullstuff methods, the gunk isn't moved as well, and the air rising to the top doesn't happen.

A bleeder extension with a one way valve is great. I am just saying you can get by without it if you're inclined, and handy.

Manual trans. expertise at shops is few and far between.

Majozak

Press harder and do it more. That's simple enough.

I'll give it a go.

Firebrian

I did the Ranger method on my car with original 13 yr old fluid in the clutch system. It was gray. Took me only 2 flushes with the pedal per Ranger to clean it up (4-8 oz).. It stayed clear. But I now do 4 oz of Ranger flushing every 1-2 yrs. The fluid has remained clear for 6 yrs.

Majozak

Flushing the liquid didn't appear to do anything. The liquid was as clean coming out as it was going in. I also pushed pretty hard on the paddle and with plenty of extra reps.

After I completed this my clutch worked well for about 5 days and then my clutch got stuck in traffic and wouldn't disengage until I pumped the clutch like 50 times.

I have it parked right now. It sounds like there's a good chance this is a master or slave cylinder.

Majozak

I'll start reading up but does anyone have any suggestions to know whether this is an issue with the master or slave cylinder? I found a video showing how to replace the Master so I'm strongly considering giving that a go.

Majozak

So I've looked over the stickies and various other posts in depth and I'm prepared to bleed my system and was just about to buy an OEM Master Cylinder. My hesitation is that the Master is $250 and I'm not necessary sure that's the problem. I realize it's a part of the diagnosis process, but I wanted to share one event that just happened.

I guess my drive train's last dying effort was to get my car into reverse one last time to get it on flat ground where i can jack it up because once i put it in Neutral i lost all feeling to the pedal. It literally just hangs there now. Absolutely zero resistance.

I was wondering if that gives anyone on here any indications one way or the other.

Also, I've read on here that folks encourage buying the OEM Master. Is $250 a decent price? Just curious.

Thanks!

Majozak

Bump?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Pop the quick disconnect off at the slave. If the master is rock hard, then focus your attention on slave / clutch.

Majozak

Awesome! Thank you I will try that!

Majozak

I've been trying to make some time and it looks like I'll have to wait until this wkd, but I noticed some leaking under my car. It's a black fluid, assumedly the clutch fluid?

Also, the pedal is 100% limp now. Assuming due to the leak.

Majozak

Hey all, I ended up swapping the master, slave, and a whole clutch replacement. I upgraded to an LS7 on my relatively stock set-up and it works great.

As for my symptoms, clearly my slave had given up the ghost by the end, but for anyone reading this later on, that was the issue I had.