boostaholic22

By any chance, does anyone know of a good reliable shop in Connecticut that is up to swaping an auto tranny out of an '00 Z28 to a T-56?

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

If you have an M6 and don't want to remove the column, try following these steps.

1. Remove the clips for the clutch master, brake booster, and pull them off and out of the way. There is a clip holding the accelerator pedal into the mount. Remove that clip and slide the pedal out of the mount.

2. Pop the plastic grommet on the accelerator pedal that hold the cable.

3. Unbolt the two 13mm nuts holding the u-bolt for the master cylinder and remove the master from under the hood of the car. Be careful not to pull the hose off the clutch reservoir and dump brake fluid on the inside of your fenderwell.

4. Unplug the two connectors on the brake pedal, and unscrew the switches from the mounts.

5. Unplug the clutch switch to the left of the brake pedal switches and unscrew it. You can try to unplug the clutch safety switch, but I left that until last.

6. Remove the six 13 mm bolts holding the bracket to the firewall. For the four around the steering column I used a 13mm deep socket, a swivel joint, and a 12" 3/8 drive extension in that order to remove them.

7. Look straight up from underneath the dash, you'll see a 13mm bolt looking down at you by the brake pedal. It is holding an L shaped bracket. The other half of the L has a 13mm nut on a stud. You will need a 13mm ratchet wrench for best results. Just get it as loose as you can, you want the bracket loose.

8. Pull the assembly toward you, off of the studs on the firewall. Then pulling from the drivers side of the steering column, gently spin the assembly counterclockwise, down to the floor. Move any of the wires out of the way, just make sure that you don't pull too hard and severe any of the wires.

Once you get it to the floor, you should be able to pull out the whole assembly.

See attached pics for reference

chevy014life

hey all im new to the site and im trying to do a t56 swap into my 86 Iroc i got a trans from a 1995 camaro and all the othe rmisc. parts but the only prob is i am not shure about the computer becasue its a 1986 tunedport car and i didnt think they had standards in 1986 on tunedport cars ... so what im asking is what do i do with the computer, do i need a new one, a chip, or what do i change becase it will no longer be getting infor from the trans?

Advise please!

Mr. Trick

iTrader: (19)

When all is said and done, how much did the A4-M6 cost you guys. Does it all depend on what kind of deal you can get for a transmission? Also were you able to sell the A4 stuff to kind of help you get some money back?

duffman2

Has anyone done a LS1 T56 F-body swap into a auto LT1 F-body? I own a totaled '98 Z28 T56 car and I'm being offered a killer deal on a procharged '97, only problem is its an auto car. Can I buy the necessary parts to convert the '98 T56 for use with a LT1? like input shaft, bell housing or clutch parts?

Tram

iTrader: (14)

Anyone know where I could look at some of the A4 to M6 "conversion kits?" Alot of the old links don't seem to work anymore..

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I have a M6 engine harness. I ran the wires to the clutch pedal so it will start and I connected the wires so the hatch will release. Do I need to do anything to make the reverse lights work or the reverse lockout function properly? I will be flashing my PCM myself using HP Tuners from a A4 to a M6.

areax

Yeah, id like to know where i could get a conversion kit for a 99 z to go from a4 to m6

camaroguy26

iTrader: (21)

chevy014life... I don't know anything about the 86 tunedports but you need to find out if they did have standards. If so you should be able to simply swap the computers, if not you'll most likely have to get a custom chip.

Mr Trick... My kit cost me 1400 with everything minus the computer which cost another 100, and minor parts like fluids, wires, etc. I did the swap myself so labor cost me nothing. And I haven't sold any auto parts yet but there are people out there looking for this stuff, I've had offers but am not at home to meet or ship the parts out.

duffman2... I believe all you need is an input shaft and bellhousing, but you might be better off selling or trading your 98T56 for one you don't need to modify. It is probably cheaper overall. do a search there's been a lot discussed about it

As for conversion kits, I've seen a few on these forums, do a search or look through the classifieds, Sorry about the old links but I don't know anymore than what you've already found

areax

I'm located in Eastern Kentucky and I was wondering if anyone knew of any reliable shops that could make the a4-m6 swap for me. I have a 99 z28

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

Is it easier to swap out the M6 harness or modify my A4 harness? The guy is going to give me the whole M6 harness, but if it will be a lot of work and easier to just splice and go, I'll do that instead.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

Never splice when you can swap, that's what I say. I guess it depends if the engine is in the car or not. Without the engine in the car it took literally 15 minutes to get it all out.

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

Nah, not taking the engine out. No need to go that far. I never want to splice if I can at all help it, but if it is gonna be a bitch to do with the engine in the car, then I'll just splice.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

I think that removing and replacing the harness will be easier than cutting and splicing in a tight space. But to each their own.

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

I'm not talking about splicing in the entire harness, just at the points where you would if you just had the connectors.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

I would keep the stock A4 harness as it is and sell it, replace it with the M6 harness. Plugs are already done for you.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I swapped my harness with the motor in that car. It was easy, just take off the intake to access the map sensor, cam sensor and grounds on the back of the head alot easier.

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

****, I just had that bastard off to powdercoat my intake.

Oh well, might as well do the coil pack relo and powdercoat the valve covers while the car is down, right?

Oh man, this is leading into a whole mess of other things. I can see myself trying to hide wires and all as I go.

02white6.0

I dont see anything wrong with splicing it, I used my A4 harness and it took maybe 30 minutes of rewiring and you wouldnt even know it was an auto harness.

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

OK I read all 16 pages closely. After reading this I am confused as to what I need to do to get my cruise to work. I have a 99 t/a that I just swapped from an A4 to an M6 Anyway I also swapped the wiring harness so I have the M6 harness on. As of now I have the 2 wires from the neutral saftey switch jumped so I can start it, I know this needs changed and will be. What do I need to do get get my cruise to work?
The best I can understand is that I need to get a "Clutch Pedal Anticipation Switch" at least and wire it into the brake switch also in a series and then to where does it go?

Also since the swap, my TCS off light is on and will not turn back on, switch is non functioning right now. Will a reflash take care of it?

Computer will be reflashed Saturday with HPTuners.