M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
The Green wire goes to the PCM RED #44, the Pink is a Power wire, hot with Key on. I spliced it into the Transmission Power Circuit that powered the Auto.
That won't work.. all you will have is a ground on both ends.. I'll explain below.
Actually, the way it goes is reverse of what you said, I described it above.
The PCM actually grounds out the Circuit, retracting the Solenoid so you can put it in Reverse.
That is how everything in these cars works..everything is powered and the PCM grounds it out to complete the circuit and to let whatever that circuit is for to function.
I answered your question in my posts above.. The Solenoid is constantly powered, when the PCM senses it's below 3mph, it grounds out that circuit, therefore completing it, retracting the Solenoid and letting you get it into Reverse.
I know all this cause I had to research it to put in a Convertor Manual Lockup Switch.. all I had to do was splice in a wire on the Lockup circuit, put a switch on it, and ground it. Turn on the switch, complete the circuit through that splice, and the Convertor locked up.
That won't work.. all you will have is a ground on both ends.. I'll explain below.
Actually, the way it goes is reverse of what you said, I described it above.
The PCM actually grounds out the Circuit, retracting the Solenoid so you can put it in Reverse.
That is how everything in these cars works..everything is powered and the PCM grounds it out to complete the circuit and to let whatever that circuit is for to function.
I answered your question in my posts above.. The Solenoid is constantly powered, when the PCM senses it's below 3mph, it grounds out that circuit, therefore completing it, retracting the Solenoid and letting you get it into Reverse.
I know all this cause I had to research it to put in a Convertor Manual Lockup Switch.. all I had to do was splice in a wire on the Lockup circuit, put a switch on it, and ground it. Turn on the switch, complete the circuit through that splice, and the Convertor locked up.
Thanks for clearing everything up.
Find one in the Fuse Box to splice into/from..that way it's Fused, and more than likely comes on with the Key on, instead of being constant power. If you do take one off of the Battery, put an Inline Fuse on it.
Here is a really good explanation of this for anyone that it can help.. about the best way to do it IMO..real close to factory.
In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except the wire that powers the Solenoids in the Transmission(it will be a pink wire, if you trace it, it will go to the Connectors on the Fender), and leave one other one inplace that goes to the PCM, you will need this one too.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch(Lime Green wire on the Auto Shifter Connector) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on an open spot, and do the same on the Engine Harness side. Run a wire through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green on the Connector. (It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length) I placed it about 6" down from the branch in the Harness where the wires go to the Tranny, about 12" in length.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the Green wire and connect it to the one wire that you left(not the power wire), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44.
If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.
That's about it..then go into the Interior and strip out the Wiring that is left over from the Auto stuff. Some Wires will be hot with the Key on, be sure to properly cap them off
In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except the wire that powers the Solenoids in the Transmission(it will be a pink wire, if you trace it, it will go to the Connectors on the Fender), and leave one other one inplace that goes to the PCM, you will need this one too.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch(Lime Green wire on the Auto Shifter Connector) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on an open spot, and do the same on the Engine Harness side. Run a wire through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green on the Connector. (It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length) I placed it about 6" down from the branch in the Harness where the wires go to the Tranny, about 12" in length.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the Green wire and connect it to the one wire that you left(not the power wire), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44.
If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.
That's about it..then go into the Interior and strip out the Wiring that is left over from the Auto stuff. Some Wires will be hot with the Key on, be sure to properly cap them off
More wiring photos are up:
Skip-Shift elimination for the Auto Harness (with a 6-sp flashed PCM)
Reverse switch wiring
Removing & plugging reverse lock-out solenoid
A4 to M6 Swap Photos
Here's just a couple of the new pics ... there are more at the link above:
Skip-Shift elimination for the Auto Harness (with a 6-sp flashed PCM)
Reverse switch wiring
Removing & plugging reverse lock-out solenoid
A4 to M6 Swap Photos
Here's just a couple of the new pics ... there are more at the link above:
Is it small type resistor, no pictures of resistor, just wondering. Only see one wire from trans harness not two, does it go to one side of resistor and a 12 volt source to other side. What does resistor do, I still have 12 volts on other side of resistor. Any help on skip shift error.
Nice picture u had there. IMO removing the reverse lock it wrong the rest was all good and for the skip shift i like it when its off and for the code u can disable it. if u want ur reverse lock to work do what the_merv did bellow
Here is a really good explanation of this for anyone that it can help.. about the best way to do it IMO..real close to factory.
In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except the wire that powers the Solenoids in the Transmission(it will be a pink wire, if you trace it, it will go to the Connectors on the Fender), and leave one other one inplace that goes to the PCM, you will need this one too.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch(Lime Green wire on the Auto Shifter Connector) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on an open spot, and do the same on the Engine Harness side. Run a wire through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green on the Connector. (It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length) I placed it about 6" down from the branch in the Harness where the wires go to the Tranny, about 12" in length.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the Green wire and connect it to the one wire that you left(not the power wire), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44.
If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.
That's about it..then go into the Interior and strip out the Wiring that is left over from the Auto stuff. Some Wires will be hot with the Key on, be sure to properly cap them off
In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except the wire that powers the Solenoids in the Transmission(it will be a pink wire, if you trace it, it will go to the Connectors on the Fender), and leave one other one inplace that goes to the PCM, you will need this one too.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch(Lime Green wire on the Auto Shifter Connector) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on an open spot, and do the same on the Engine Harness side. Run a wire through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green on the Connector. (It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length) I placed it about 6" down from the branch in the Harness where the wires go to the Tranny, about 12" in length.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the Green wire and connect it to the one wire that you left(not the power wire), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44.
If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.
That's about it..then go into the Interior and strip out the Wiring that is left over from the Auto stuff. Some Wires will be hot with the Key on, be sure to properly cap them off
I also took the time and removed all the extra wiring.
Here is my thread that I have going, there are some pics in it that will help..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/969651-my-t56-conversion.html
why DOES my cruise work...i thought guys had probs with it not working if they didnt wire for it...i didnt wire for it and i dont even have the upper clutch switch (not clutch safety i have that one) but mine works, i was amazed.
also out of no where my "brake" dummy light came on today on the highway my e brake wasnt on and im unsure of what caused this..car works other wise though glad i did it...now i just need a driver mod.
also out of no where my "brake" dummy light came on today on the highway my e brake wasnt on and im unsure of what caused this..car works other wise though glad i did it...now i just need a driver mod.
Is there a list of wires that can be removed from an A4 harness for the M6 conversion? I'm doing this in a conversion car and want to slim down the harness.
Let me know if anything on this list is wrong. This is for an '04 GTO harness but they are very close to the '99-01 Fbody:
These are transmission only related pins/wires:
Blue connector
17 YE 1225 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B
18 GY 1226 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C
32 BU/WH 771 Transmission Range Switch Signal A
79 GN/WH or GY898 or 587 Shift Solenoid Valve 3 High Control - Skip/Shift Solenoid Control
Green (Red in Fbody)
2 BN 418 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Control
6 RD 1228 PC Solenoid Valve High Control Sol.A
8 GY/BU 1229 PC Solenoid Valve Low Control Sol.A
47 YE/BK 1223 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Control
48 L-GN 1222 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control
51 YE/BK 1227 TFT Sensor Signal
62 GY 773 Transmission Range Switch Signal C
63 BN/YE 1224 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A
Frank
Let me know if anything on this list is wrong. This is for an '04 GTO harness but they are very close to the '99-01 Fbody:
These are transmission only related pins/wires:
Blue connector
17 YE 1225 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B
18 GY 1226 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C
32 BU/WH 771 Transmission Range Switch Signal A
79 GN/WH or GY898 or 587 Shift Solenoid Valve 3 High Control - Skip/Shift Solenoid Control
Green (Red in Fbody)
2 BN 418 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Control
6 RD 1228 PC Solenoid Valve High Control Sol.A
8 GY/BU 1229 PC Solenoid Valve Low Control Sol.A
47 YE/BK 1223 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Control
48 L-GN 1222 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control
51 YE/BK 1227 TFT Sensor Signal
62 GY 773 Transmission Range Switch Signal C
63 BN/YE 1224 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A
Frank
Is the pin a type 6 or 7? That goes to the PCM #44? SDPC said that they couldn't figure it out. He said there were all kinds of different weather protectors on them. So any help will be greatly appreiciated.
Last edited by bjamick; Aug 29, 2008 at 10:11 AM.
I just took a pin and section of wire that was for the A4 and used it in #44
Ok what pin is used for the A4 on the PCM? That away I can pull it cut it, then just splice in the wire that needs to go into PIN #44? Do you remember by chance?