M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
09-15-2008, 10:07 PM
#481
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We are doing the a4 to m6 swap on my boys 94 Z28. I have read through this thread and there seems to be a question as to wiring the cruise switch on the clutch ped.. I have read that if you hook it up in series with the switch on the brake ped. it will work until you have the pcm re-flashed to the m6 trans. Is this correct? and if so is there a pin on the computer that can be tapped to go to the clutch switch to make it work as it should? Any help would be great. Thanks
Dave
Dave
09-17-2008, 04:35 AM
#482
Here is a really good explanation of this for anyone that it can help.. about the best way to do it IMO..real close to factory.
In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except the wire that powers the Solenoids in the Transmission(it will be a pink wire, if you trace it, it will go to the Connectors on the Fender), and leave one other one inplace that goes to the PCM, you will need this one too.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch(Lime Green wire on the Auto Shifter Connector) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on an open spot, and do the same on the Engine Harness side. Run a wire through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green on the Connector. (It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length) I placed it about 6" down from the branch in the Harness where the wires go to the Tranny, about 12" in length.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the Green wire and connect it to the one wire that you left(not the power wire), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44.
If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.
That's about it..then go into the Interior and strip out the Wiring that is left over from the Auto stuff. Some Wires will be hot with the Key on, be sure to properly cap them off
In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except the wire that powers the Solenoids in the Transmission(it will be a pink wire, if you trace it, it will go to the Connectors on the Fender), and leave one other one inplace that goes to the PCM, you will need this one too.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch(Lime Green wire on the Auto Shifter Connector) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on an open spot, and do the same on the Engine Harness side. Run a wire through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green on the Connector. (It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length) I placed it about 6" down from the branch in the Harness where the wires go to the Tranny, about 12" in length.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the Green wire and connect it to the one wire that you left(not the power wire), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44.
If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.
That's about it..then go into the Interior and strip out the Wiring that is left over from the Auto stuff. Some Wires will be hot with the Key on, be sure to properly cap them off
09-17-2008, 04:00 PM
#483
Staging Lane
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I was asking about the cruise shut off switch on the brake pedal. The info on the quote pertains to the safety switch, the reverse lockout, and the skip shift. Any one?
Need to know what pin on the computer to tap into for the grey wire to the switch.
Thanks
Need to know what pin on the computer to tap into for the grey wire to the switch.
Thanks
Last edited by 1st TA; 09-20-2008 at 10:47 AM. Reason: add
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10-11-2008, 01:44 PM
#493
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Doin the a-4 to M6 swap.. heres a little back story..
got a new motor Lt1 383 stroker, can't put it in till christmas. (its in Mich.. im in Nc) but my tranny started throwing codes.. so i picked up a M6 swap.
it came out of a 94 camaro, and my cars a 96. the clutch still has some life in it, and i am going to use it till i put the motor in, when i can get a nice Spec, or centerforce.
With the Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate out of a Lt1 car before. going into a Lt1 car, would i need the flywheel rebalanced to the motor i have in the car now or would i just line the pins up and bolt her down?
when i do change the new motor, would i need to have the flywheel rebalanced for the 383 due to it being Centrally balanced, or will it not be a factor?
Thanks!
got a new motor Lt1 383 stroker, can't put it in till christmas. (its in Mich.. im in Nc) but my tranny started throwing codes.. so i picked up a M6 swap.
it came out of a 94 camaro, and my cars a 96. the clutch still has some life in it, and i am going to use it till i put the motor in, when i can get a nice Spec, or centerforce.
With the Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate out of a Lt1 car before. going into a Lt1 car, would i need the flywheel rebalanced to the motor i have in the car now or would i just line the pins up and bolt her down?
when i do change the new motor, would i need to have the flywheel rebalanced for the 383 due to it being Centrally balanced, or will it not be a factor?
Thanks!
10-27-2008, 10:10 AM
#495
Ok this weekend I got my motor put together and started working on the swap.
I got my pedals in and mouted up and then started looking at where to put the master cylinder. So I drilled a big hole and put the master cylinder in place. Man what a PITA that was. Took forever to get it straight with the clutch pedal. Had to keep grinding out the hold to get it straight. But I finally did get it installed.
Also got the neutral safety switch wired up, or all except for the reverse lights, bc I didn't have a connector that would work. Also gotta wire up reverse lockout still and then get the motor and trans put in at the same time.
I got my pedals in and mouted up and then started looking at where to put the master cylinder. So I drilled a big hole and put the master cylinder in place. Man what a PITA that was. Took forever to get it straight with the clutch pedal. Had to keep grinding out the hold to get it straight. But I finally did get it installed.
Also got the neutral safety switch wired up, or all except for the reverse lights, bc I didn't have a connector that would work. Also gotta wire up reverse lockout still and then get the motor and trans put in at the same time.