M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
Yes, I just used a regular butt connector to join the two wires, put some silicone in the ends to weather proof those, and tucked the connector in with the rest of the wires.
I guess if I wanted to I could have pulled the pin and complete length of wire out and not had to put a splice in it anywhere.
Or just swap pin positions and cut the wire down at the A4 harness.
I guess if I wanted to I could have pulled the pin and complete length of wire out and not had to put a splice in it anywhere.
Or just swap pin positions and cut the wire down at the A4 harness.
I have the ones that I took out of mine still labeled on the 4L60E Tranny Connector for refrence..
You sure about that..?
I drove a Car that was a M6 Conversion, and it would hold the RPM's thinking it was a Auto when I went to shift Gears.
It was a bitch..kinda cool though in a way cause I had auto-powershift..lol
That sounds like a vaccum leak or a TB issue to me. Electronics shouldnt really hold RPMs all that much but who knows what was going on. Ill find out this week when i finish mine up and get back to you haha. Im not getting a tune right away either so i should have a definite answer.
That sounds like a vaccum leak or a TB issue to me. Electronics shouldnt really hold RPMs all that much but who knows what was going on. Ill find out this week when i finish mine up and get back to you haha. Im not getting a tune right away either so i should have a definite answer.
A lot that effect the idle characteristics too.
When I did a 'rewrite entire' on my car with HPTuners it even changed what some of the VCM pinouts did, some went dead, some needed to be pinned and run to new things, like the reverse lockout, etc.
^^That is one that I had mentioned about that is needed to pin if you want it to work correctly. For the LS1 F-cars it's PCM RED, PIN #44.
All the Auto ones except for the Fused power should have no signal once the Tune is changed.
All the Auto ones except for the Fused power should have no signal once the Tune is changed.
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, MI : Milford, MI: Flint, MI depending on the time of the year
Completed T-56 Swap I just swapped in a T-56 into my 99 TA. It took two days and a lot of headaches but it is done and that feels great.
My major problem was mounting the master to low, this caused a chain reaction of no clutch-disengagement and the clutch pedal was really low (below the brake). I moved the master cylinder up about 3/8" and everything worked great.
There was some unexpected soldering to be done on the clutch switch and I did not expect that.
I used hp tunders for my flash and everything worked perfectly.
My major problem was mounting the master to low, this caused a chain reaction of no clutch-disengagement and the clutch pedal was really low (below the brake). I moved the master cylinder up about 3/8" and everything worked great.
There was some unexpected soldering to be done on the clutch switch and I did not expect that.
I used hp tunders for my flash and everything worked perfectly.
I just swapped in a T-56 into my 99 TA. It took two days and a lot of headaches but it is done and that feels great.
My major problem was mounting the master to low, this caused a chain reaction of no clutch-disengagement and the clutch pedal was really low (below the brake). I moved the master cylinder up about 3/8" and everything worked great.
There was some unexpected soldering to be done on the clutch switch and I did not expect that.
I used hp tunders for my flash and everything worked perfectly.
My major problem was mounting the master to low, this caused a chain reaction of no clutch-disengagement and the clutch pedal was really low (below the brake). I moved the master cylinder up about 3/8" and everything worked great.
There was some unexpected soldering to be done on the clutch switch and I did not expect that.
I used hp tunders for my flash and everything worked perfectly.
Ok you guys were right. I started mine and the rpms do hang. I touch the throttle and it shoots up to 2500rpm waits, then drops to idle.
^^What do you mean..
It's the RED PCM Connector, Pin #44.
Do you mean how to Pin it?
If you are converting from a A4.. save the wire that goes to Pin #42 on that Connector, just pop it out and move it over to Pin #44.
How you pop it out is to take the Connector apart, carefully pop off the Red Plastic piece off of the front of it, and lift up on the plastic clip holding the wire in. As you lift on it, pull the wire out. Take a paper clip and push it through the rubber on #44, then carefully insert the wire you just pulled out into that spot.
On the other end of that wire, which should be near where the Auto Plug was, connect that to the Green wire on the Reverse Lockout Connector.
It's the RED PCM Connector, Pin #44.
Do you mean how to Pin it?
If you are converting from a A4.. save the wire that goes to Pin #42 on that Connector, just pop it out and move it over to Pin #44.
How you pop it out is to take the Connector apart, carefully pop off the Red Plastic piece off of the front of it, and lift up on the plastic clip holding the wire in. As you lift on it, pull the wire out. Take a paper clip and push it through the rubber on #44, then carefully insert the wire you just pulled out into that spot.
On the other end of that wire, which should be near where the Auto Plug was, connect that to the Green wire on the Reverse Lockout Connector.
^^What do you mean..
It's the RED PCM Connector, Pin #44.
Do you mean how to Pin it?
If you are converting from a A4.. save the wire that goes to Pin #42 on that Connector, just pop it out and move it over to Pin #44.
How you pop it out is to take the Connector apart, carefully pop off the Red Plastic piece off of the front of it, and lift up on the plastic clip holding the wire in. As you lift on it, pull the wire out. Take a paper clip and push it through the rubber on #44, then carefully insert the wire you just pulled out into that spot.
On the other end of that wire, which should be near where the Auto Plug was, connect that to the Green wire on the Reverse Lockout Connector.
It's the RED PCM Connector, Pin #44.
Do you mean how to Pin it?
If you are converting from a A4.. save the wire that goes to Pin #42 on that Connector, just pop it out and move it over to Pin #44.
How you pop it out is to take the Connector apart, carefully pop off the Red Plastic piece off of the front of it, and lift up on the plastic clip holding the wire in. As you lift on it, pull the wire out. Take a paper clip and push it through the rubber on #44, then carefully insert the wire you just pulled out into that spot.
On the other end of that wire, which should be near where the Auto Plug was, connect that to the Green wire on the Reverse Lockout Connector.
.. Thanks for the other info bc I didn't know all that either.
I'm doin an a4 to m6 conversion Can someone please tell me what interior wirin still has to be done if I use a manual harness and since I'm usin the Manuel Harness will the the reverse lockout and and other stuff work like it should or is there still wirin to do to make all this work