How high should the clutch pedal be relative to the brake pedal?
08-11-2004, 08:54 PM
#1
How high should the clutch pedal be relative to the brake pedal? Siple question. My clutch pedal is only slightly higher than my brake pedal. I really don't remember where it sat before I did the clutch swap, and now with the clutch switch code being thrown, I'm trying to figure all possibilities.
So where does your clutch pedal sit?
So where does your clutch pedal sit?
08-12-2004, 12:04 AM
#3
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Wherever it feels most comfortable. I find myself changing the height on mine every couple of weeks.
Adjust it while looking at the switches under the dash and make it hit both of them.
Adjust it while looking at the switches under the dash and make it hit both of them.
08-12-2004, 11:45 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Onyx Z
Wherever it feels most comfortable. I find myself changing the height on mine every couple of weeks.
Adjust it while looking at the switches under the dash and make it hit both of them.
Adjust it while looking at the switches under the dash and make it hit both of them.
08-12-2004, 01:03 PM
#5
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The switches are adjustable as well, just wondering what the stock height is supposed to be for both the brake and clutch pedal. Anybody with an M6 and a measuring tape out there
Steve, if you look down under the dash at the above the pedals, there are a couple switches there, one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch. When the pedals are all the way up it should depress the switches, for cruise control, brake lights, and clutch position I think..
Dan
Steve, if you look down under the dash at the above the pedals, there are a couple switches there, one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch. When the pedals are all the way up it should depress the switches, for cruise control, brake lights, and clutch position I think..
Dan
08-12-2004, 11:28 PM
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If you have an adjustable master you can adjust it wherever you like but I too wish I had measured mine prior to wacking off my master's rod (LOL) and threading on the rod end.
I'm sure your SES light and non-functional cruise are because the clutch switch is not being depressed with the pedal out. The switch is easily adjustable.
I'm sure your SES light and non-functional cruise are because the clutch switch is not being depressed with the pedal out. The switch is easily adjustable.
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08-13-2004, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
If you have an adjustable master you can adjust it wherever you like but I too wish I had measured mine prior to wacking off my master's rod (LOL) and threading on the rod end.
I'm sure your SES light and non-functional cruise are because the clutch switch is not being depressed with the pedal out. The switch is easily adjustable.
I'm sure your SES light and non-functional cruise are because the clutch switch is not being depressed with the pedal out. The switch is easily adjustable.
Thanks,
Ray
08-14-2004, 02:10 PM
#9
I cant comment on the slave drillout, but the master drill mod was very simple. If you think you've gone too far into the hose, but are still having a hard time pushing the drill in, KEEP GOING! There is a lot of material to take out. It seemed like it was taking forever, but you'll know when you break through the restriction. Make sure you back out often to get the shavings out.
08-16-2004, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DMNSPD
Awesome... can someone tell me how?
08-16-2004, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by C5Vette
Sounds like you've been around the block on the clutch issue. I have a 99 c5 vert with 7,000 miles on it. I have the same clutch issues as everyone else with the 2-3 shift and sometimes on the 1-2 shift. I am planning a swap with the ZO6 clutch. I bought a new slave to drill out the slave restrictor....I am just looking for dos and don'ts and what to watch out for.....If you've done it, I'd sure like to know exactly how it worked out and what you had to do. Also is the clutch touchier now than before!?!?!
Thanks,
Ray
Thanks,
Ray
Well, I have done mine twice in the last month or so. I installed a RAM at first and it failed in ~1000 miles due either to being bent during shipping or a manufacturing problem. I just put a Z06 set in last weekend and am loving it so far.
If your problem is the pedal sticking to the floor, that's what I had with my stocker. No one has definitively proved what the issue is but replacing the clutch assembly and slave seems to do the trick. Our pre-'01 slaves could be the problem. There are three restrictions in the hydraulic system on the vettes and the slave restriction is the only one that is easily reached. I don't think it will hurt to drill it out but to do the job completely to mane any difference at all you'll need to remove the restriction in the middle of the hard line and the one at the 90 degree bend soon after the CMC. There used to be a thread on the corvetteforum about where the restrictions are but I can't find it.
If you are going with a Z06 clutch don't mess with your master at all.
Are you looking for tips on the clutch swap or the slave drill mod? Feel free to PM me. There used to be a real good clutch swap writeup on the corvetteforum before they moved to the new format, now I can't find it.
08-16-2004, 05:37 PM
#12
Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
If you remove the under dash trim panel and look at the switch you'll see how easy it is. It just threads in and out. Thread it down to where the switch is being pushed in almost all the way with the pedal not depressed. If it won't go far enough you need to adjust your master rod out more.
