xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Like the title says, did the drill mod, also double insulated the line with 2 layers of rubber hose and pulled as far away from the header as I could. Pedal is still going dead after ONE solid gear pull. I am going to put in an LS6 clutch next week or so and was curious if I should just go with an 02+ LS1 slave or go with the LS6 slave and adapt it to work. Will there be any difference?

Thanks

Btrandon

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

You want to go with the upgraded slave for the 01/02 f-bods.

Dal1as

I had this issue for quite awhile. bled, bled more, etc. Finally I gravity bled it and bled from the reservoir a few times using a mighty vac all while testing my clutch out on the street. After the Ride for Pride Sept 11th my clutch is completely solid. I'm guessing that last little bit of air workeds it's way loose. You may need to give it time. (shrug)

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Havent had the car very long, but one thing I can tell you. I HATE BLEEDING THIS ******! It is so annoying how they place the valve up, over, and beyond where it is convenient. I guess I will try bleeding it some more and see if that will make it any better. To be totally honest, when I did the drill mod I probably didnt bleed it long enough.

Thanks

Brandon

SINISTER

iTrader: (16)

well i would do the upgraded slave just cause the old ones suck ***

but gravity bleed that thing good

i like motil fluid has a real high heat dens..

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I'm just using plain dot 3 fluid from the parts store. It works just like factory, yet it doesn't stick to the floor

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Just so we are clear. My car didnt do this before it had headers and 375whp. I think for one I being way to hard on a clutch that isnt meant to handle that kind of power. The other obviously is that the slave in my car blows. I still wonder why the drill mod didnt help at all. Must be that I didnt bleed long enough. Thats all that makes sense in my little world.

Brandon

Dal1as

Try searching around, but I took some advice and drilled a hole through the trani tunnel so I could bleed the car myself. If you gravity bleed. Just barely break the bleeder to where it's barely coming out. Keep an eye on the reservoir for an hour or two and you should be good. It took me quite awhile to get mine right.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

I agree drill the hole thru the transmission tunnel and it will save you lotsa time! I found a plug from sears that fits perfectly to cap the hole also. After I did my drill mod I probably bled the system 50-60 times as small air bubbles were still coming up to the top of fill bottle. It's also hard for a stock 99 clutch and hydraulics to hold 375rwhp.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

I did the drill mod and never had to mess with the PIA bleed screw because I did the Mighty-Vac procedure. In fact, the roll pin that holds the braided line to the master worked itself loose 6 months after I did the drill mod and lost all the fluid again. Used the Mighty-Vac and bled it from the reservoir. I bled it for 20-30 minutes every other night after work for about 2 weeks. Under vacuum I would vary the method from night to night. Pumping the pedal fast and then slow and hold. Pushing the pedal 1/2 way down and holding and repeating. Pumping slow, pumping fast and repeating. Left it under vacuum overnight a few times too. If you hang the pump from a coat hanger attached to the hood, from the drivers seat you can see the bubbles in the clear line working their way out of the system. It's amazing how much air these systems can hold. My clutch pedal has never felt better. Now if I could just smooth out this notchy shifting T-56.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Dont mean to sound ignorant. But how do you bleed using the mighty vac? I assume it pressurizing the line, but how is it done?

Thanks

Brandon

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Actually it's pulling a vacuum on the system instead of pressurizing it. Check out Mike's website. Scroll to the bottom of the page. He shows how the Mighty Vac is inserted in the clutch reservoir while it's still in the car. If you try this method, be patient. You aren't going to get all the air out on the first try. But it works over time.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/buschm...utchbleed.html

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

I drilled the tunnel this weekend. Let me just say that is the only way to bleed the clutch. Bored out a 1.25" hole in line with the bleeder and it works so well. GM should have done that **** from the factory. If doing this isnt a sticky somewhere it should be.

Thanks

Brandon

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Heh...you would think as long as this F-body chassis has been around, GM would have done something like that. BTW, what did you use to plug that hole up with?

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

HavATampa......It was just a Black rubber plug. I did not find it at Sears but at Lowes! Sorry. I picked out a few I thought would fit and one of them fit perfectly. Sorry I can't be of more help.

DaddySS

The mityvac works great and is the new procedure recommended in the GM TSB on bleeding. No touching the bleeder screw necessary, it draws the air bubbles out of the system by vacuum.

Go with the upgraded slave for f-bodies, and invest in a mighty vac - you'll be glad you did.