KALEL

well I have posted up on this numerous times, and everytime I have recieved weak feedback, so I'll try again.

My problem is that on the return, my clutch pedal goes through a "sticky section" on the upper end of the return. its not sitting on the ground and the clutch will engage. It feels like some type of friction. this problem doesn't occur when it is hot outside. This leads me to think that maybe some type of bearing could be worn out and is freezing up in cooler weather, but I'm not sure. All of hydraulics have been replaced, and this problem has been occuring since before my switch with the original clutch. I'm 95% sure its not a pressure problem either since it just started happening one day. I don't leak fluid, **** has been bled. I have heard people talk about the spring breaking, but not what the pedal feels like. Whatever my problem is, IT IS THE MOST ANNOYING **** IN THE WORLD! I know I am not the only being in existence with this problem, so please guys, help me out. Suggestions, anything. I would really appreciate it.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Have you tryed to disconnect the master from the pedal and cycle the pedal to see if there is any binding or rough spots. Did your return spring break? May be between the 2 you might have a lot of resistance on the return of the pedal. Try this and see, at least this will isolate were your problem may lie.

ldickson

iTrader: (9)

What kinda master do you have? is it adustable? my master was leaking but I had to pull the rubber boot back on the master to see it.

KALEL

i have an upgraded 02 cylinder. This problem occured before I swapped it though, before I touched anything so I dont think that was the problem

618hawk - I will disconnect the master and try what you suggest since I haven't before. Do you know what the symptoms are of a busted spring?

AtlantaRTA

To follow up on the previous post. That is a good idea to check the pedal by itself. Disconnect the clip on the pedal and pull off the rod of the master. The pedal will move very freely now. The spring if working properly WILL have a deadspot in the middle of the pedal travel. It will push toward the firewall from the middle and will push out toward the driver as you come up from the dead spot in the middle. This is normal for a properly working pedal and return spring. I don't know what master you have but with an adjustable master if you shoten the rod from letting the pedal fully return the the top you can create a dead spot. I have had this happen and corrected it by lenthening the rod a little bit. It happens when the release occurs just before the dead spot. I'm explaining this as an example of what can, and has for me caused a dead spot. This may not apply to you but is some info.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

As for a busted spring I cant say, might be slow or rough to return to full up position. My spring broke @ 15000 miles and is still broke with 34000. I have no problems with my pedal. I do know and have heard the spring is a royal pain to replace. Might want to try and lube your piviot points as well, sounds like a bad one if sticking when cold, if it is in the pedal assembly.

KALEL

well disconnected the master cylinder from the pedal and it is the pedal. I saw the spring and its doing like it should, and its not broken. this "sticky" feel begins when the pedal wants to come towards the driver. I'm still trying to find something that could be the culprit, but this is where Im at right now. Suggestions?

KALEL

update: there is a metal bracket that bolts to the frame of the car. this bracket runs parallel with the trajectory of the spring. the spring is rubbing against it!

badassws6

Sounds familiar. I have the same problem I put a post up under "clutch issues" I get this boggy return from mine and it is very annoying like it feels like the car is going to die. I dont know whats wrong but Im trying to see if you are having the same issue as me. Sure sounds like it.

KALEL

mine is purely clutch. my car never felt like it was going to die. the pedal was just sticky on the return. if your car sounds/ feels like its going to die you may have a different problem

badassws6

Well I know its not going to die. But on the return it does this boggy shake thing like something isnt catching, when I take of in 1st only. And its not the matter of my rpms being too low either. Some say its warped. Cause I bought the car before I even knew how to drive a M6. Im not sure if I should just replace it or what. Still contemplating.

KALEL

do you have an aftermarket clutch? sounds like chatter to me

KALEL

Life is good

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Cool...glad you found the problem. What are you going to do now, just leave off the spring?

KALEL

yup. I thought about shaving the spring down, but between the time it would take to get it back in plus the fact that it could break as a cause of shaving, I decided to leave it off. It feels much nicer then it did, even with the spring off.

badassws6

No its the one from the factory , OEM

AW794

iTrader: (7)

Dont mean to get off topic here, but dont we need the spring in there?

tippmann243

yes and no

the spring returns the pedal to where it should be, but the hydraulic(sp) system should also return the spring to the stock location when pressure is let off the pedal

KALEL

I could be wrong here, but would the hydraulic system not have to also push back AGAINST the spring if it was in there? The spring pushes toward the firewall once it's past a "deadspot. Yea it does push out towards the driver, but in my case at least, that was after the clutch had already been engaged. It seems to me that the system would have less to push against if the spring was not in.

AtlantaRTA

When you press down at first you are fighting the return spring. You then get toward the center and the spring helps the pedal go towards the firewall. When you come back up the return spring is fighting but its against the very strong pressure plate. As you come up past about halfway on the pedal depending on your clutch the spring starts to help the pedal return. The clutch is released and the pressure plate doesn't help anymore but the spring inside the master cylinder does push the master rod out. It isn't that strong compared to the pressure plate. The reason you want to make sure that your pedal returns all the way up is that you want to make sure that the master cylinder goes back far enough to release hydraulic pressure in the system. This can all happen without the pedal spring. Make sure your pedal is coming up all the way without the pedal spring in though. I like the feel with it in compared to out. Your spring in the picture is bent. It can take a half hour or more to put one in. I covered mine in grease to shut it up.