last chance for the T56
#1
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TECH Senior Member
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,354
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From: Columbus, ohio
last chance for the T56
well going to try out the 6speed for the last time, if the hydrolics dont work its T400 time.
under full acceleration the clutch pedal gets soft to the point were by the time i shift to third its to the floor and i cat get it in gear. i replaced the clutch ones hydrolics once, so i replacing the hydrolics as it has to be the problem im loosing pressure. The only thing i didnt replace last time was my hydrolic line, now im replacing that to along with the slave and i have another master in case that one dont work.
if it doesnt hold then thats it im through im thorowing a T400 in.
under full acceleration the clutch pedal gets soft to the point were by the time i shift to third its to the floor and i cat get it in gear. i replaced the clutch ones hydrolics once, so i replacing the hydrolics as it has to be the problem im loosing pressure. The only thing i didnt replace last time was my hydrolic line, now im replacing that to along with the slave and i have another master in case that one dont work.
if it doesnt hold then thats it im through im thorowing a T400 in.
#2
i had problems like this, i bought all new stuff, the only thing i didnt buy was the line, i got the mcloud adjustable master and love it, new upgraded slave, the clutch came with a new through out bearing and i put in a aluminum fly wheel. sounds like a lot and it isnt cheap but it was worth it, i think, i love the pedal feel now. good luck.
#6
get some heat wrap to maybe keep the temps down
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400384
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400384
#7
Originally Posted by slowpoke96z28
get some heat wrap to maybe keep the temps down
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400384
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400384
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#9
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TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (48)
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From: Columbus, ohio
i tried to isolate the line and wrap it in case it was boiling, also got high temp brake fluid, it didnt help.
ill probably keep the T56 in case i get to board with the A3, or use it on something else.
ill probably keep the T56 in case i get to board with the A3, or use it on something else.
#10
Making some good power? I had almost the same type problem. The clutch would slip at high RPM & the pedal would mush. It was slight, not even noticable. The only reason I noticed it was 'cause the shift light was coming on a little early.
The only thing I can figure is it was heating the fluid up.
The only thing I can figure is it was heating the fluid up.
#11
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iTrader: (48)
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From: Columbus, ohio
the clutch would not slip.
when i was making 536lb ft of torgue it was pretty bad, the clutch would stick to the floor, and i couldnt shift for a while, id wait pul the clutch up with my foot, pump it a few times and it would have pressure on it again were i could shift.
after i took off the turbo kit and ran it NA for a while if i got on it the clutch would feel sponggy on the top, like it lost pressure, just not as bad when i was making alot of power.
when i was making 536lb ft of torgue it was pretty bad, the clutch would stick to the floor, and i couldnt shift for a while, id wait pul the clutch up with my foot, pump it a few times and it would have pressure on it again were i could shift.
after i took off the turbo kit and ran it NA for a while if i got on it the clutch would feel sponggy on the top, like it lost pressure, just not as bad when i was making alot of power.
#14
6spds are an expensive endevour when put in a hardcore racing aplication. i swore i was going to keep mine a 6spd, but now i'm putting a 400 w/ a brake and a manual valve body in it. maybe you should do the same since you said you were already thinking about it.
#15
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I'm on the A3 path now too. I hope to have this done in September.
Let's see in the last 2 years we have:
1 dead stock clutch
1 dead Spec S3 Ceramic
1 Spec S4F I had to beat off the FW with a 5# hammer
1 Spec S4F that stuck AGAIN. Working now for the time being.
1 Dead slave
2 dead Masters
1 dead U Joint
1 dead pinion yoke
2 dead drive shafts.
I could have paid for the A3 and a lot of other stuff. I'm done swapping the same parts over and over. A3 RMVB Trans Brake and custome converter in the near future.
Oh, 25% of the total miles on my car are breaking in F)(*& clutches.
Let's see in the last 2 years we have:
1 dead stock clutch
1 dead Spec S3 Ceramic
1 Spec S4F I had to beat off the FW with a 5# hammer
1 Spec S4F that stuck AGAIN. Working now for the time being.
1 Dead slave
2 dead Masters
1 dead U Joint
1 dead pinion yoke
2 dead drive shafts.
I could have paid for the A3 and a lot of other stuff. I'm done swapping the same parts over and over. A3 RMVB Trans Brake and custome converter in the near future.
Oh, 25% of the total miles on my car are breaking in F)(*& clutches.
#17
MM,
do you think something like the mccleod twin disk would hold up better in your application?
Where it would have more holding power or do you think no clutch will hold up so might as well use a cheaper one?
you switching over to an auto?
do you think something like the mccleod twin disk would hold up better in your application?
Where it would have more holding power or do you think no clutch will hold up so might as well use a cheaper one?
you switching over to an auto?