Is it possible to put an Earl's solo bleeder on the clutch slave? It sure would make bleeding th clutch easier. Anyone done this? I was also thinking about running a steel braided line from the slave up into the engine bay and putting one of these bleeders on there. That way I would never have to crawl underneath to bleed again, and I could bleed it my self! Anyone tried this before??? Anyone have any ideas/input on the best way to route the braided line from the slave? Thanks.

 

Heh, how are you going to bleed it yourself if the bleeder is in the engine bay? You still need to pump the clutch pedal, and unless your Mr. Fantastic, you will need a bleed buddy.

 

The Earl's bleeders have a valve in them that open when you push down on the pedal and close when you let off. Meaning you don't have to open and close the valve everytime you pump the pedal. Therefore leting all the Mr. Fantastics out there bleed the system by themselves.

 

Ahh, very nice, I did not know it had a valve like that. And I was trying to be funny, not snippy.

I took my slave to a local hydraulics shop and they made up a custom bleeder line for me. Cost me 19 bucks + tax. Has a standard bleeder valve at the end, so I will still need a bleed buddy.

One last question, where are you mounting the end of the bleeder line? Fuel rail? other?

 

Didn't take it as snippy, no worries. I'm not sure about where to mount it yet. I thought maybe all the way up by the reservoir. Where's yours run to? What's it made out of? I don't know if it would be better to use metal tubing for the whole thing or braided line.

 

Hi Fl01SS,

Yes, an Earl's Solo Bleeder can make the bleed process very easy.

The ones I have available are setup to be about 35-38 inches long. It is made of Stainless Steel braided hose, has adapters for the slave and for the installation of the bleeders. It has an Adel clamp for fixing it under the hood.

It is very simple to bleed: Just open the hood, crack the bleeder, push the pedal (you or a helper), close the bleeder, pull the pedal and repeat.

This method allows for you to monitor the fluid very easily and certainly doesn't require any jacking of the car. Anytime I have any questions as to the possibility of boiled hydraulic fluid, I just bleed a few times and it takes about 10 minutes at the most.

Here is a thread with some pictures and links. If interested, PM me as the time to get one installed is with the trans out of the car.

Regards
Steve

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...topic=5987&hl=

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=13&t=6879

 

hmm, buy a mighty vac and some tube, bleed it your self in the front seat, try searching for bleeding without going under the car instructions there, pretty simple, those solo bleeds will blow out tons of fluid so fast,you would be filling it up so many times.

 

No, actually you don't pump out all that much fluid.

I recommend a fresh fluid change to start. Use a turkey baster to remove the old fluid. Fill w/fresh. Then slowly do the bleed process.

Your Slave will have fresh fluid in three to four pumps. Just do the pumping and pulling of the pedal slowly. It works fine and you don't have to go searching for the mighty vac any time you want to do the job, just two wrenches and a bottle of fluid.

Steve

 

You still have to close the bleeder before pulling the pedal?

 

I bought his bleeder line, and while I dont have it installed yet, I will say it is a nice piece and I can't wait to get it in. Seems it would make bleeding a lot easier. I recommend it.

 

I normally do the job with my son as the "pedal operator." It is not necessary to close the bleeder to do the job. The bleeder has the spring actuated plunger to do the sealing work.

Its just that I'm right there under the hood and I do close it when he finishes pushing and prior to him lifting the pedal. They have a great seal to them and would accomplish the same result if just left alone.

Steve

 

Where is this reservoir you speak of????
I'll try anything to help with this crappy 1-2 shift.

 

It is against the firewall and sits atop the clutch master cylinder.

It must be kept properly full during any bleeding operation.

 

I'll go look.

 

If it's that little thing between the brake MC and the fender it's almost empty. I'm guessing it takes brake fluid so I'm gonna top it off and start trying to figure out how in hell I'm gonna bleed the bitch!

 

Yep, that is the Clutch MC. You can't let the level drop to the point the MC sucks air. Then it is a major problem. If your clutch MC reservoir level drops after filling it, there certainly is a defective MC or slave.

If it does drop, start looking for drops on the driveway or wet spots.

Steve

 

That fluid is 4 years old. I wonder if there is any chance this could be contributing to the 1-2 BS? Looks like I'll be using the search feature!

 

Back on topic, does anyone have any pics/info about a remote mounted bleeder?

 

I can send you some pics of the bleeder sitting on top of the fuel rail as well as close up shots of the bleeder.

Send your email address.

Steve

 

here are some pics of the bleeder. I'll see if I can get others up.

Steve