which clutch DOES NOT CHATTER???
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Ok, my hays clutch is on its last leg (and a shame too, less than a year, only 15kmiles on it, I dont think im that hard on it).
the hays clutch chatters, and I HATE it, what are the choices for clutches that DO NOT chatter?
I plan on daily driving, 4-5 trips to the drag strip annually, and lots of autocrossing, some road racing on nitto 555R2's- no slicks, but a sticky tire compared to street tires.
I'm totally sick of shaking the car apart for the last year with that damn clutch, i'll even settle for the ls6 clutch if i have to... btw, my car makes near stock power, no rear end mods are planned (maybe a torsen t2r).
thanks in advance!
the hays clutch chatters, and I HATE it, what are the choices for clutches that DO NOT chatter?
I plan on daily driving, 4-5 trips to the drag strip annually, and lots of autocrossing, some road racing on nitto 555R2's- no slicks, but a sticky tire compared to street tires.
I'm totally sick of shaking the car apart for the last year with that damn clutch, i'll even settle for the ls6 clutch if i have to... btw, my car makes near stock power, no rear end mods are planned (maybe a torsen t2r).
thanks in advance!
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None will if installed right. Chatter comes from grease on the presser plate or from it being warped from not having the proper torque on the bolts.
When the presser plate is installed dirty it will grab and let go and grab and so on. This is the chatter or if the plate is warped the same happens. When the install is done keep your hand clean and the tools also. Be **** about this. Make sure you follow the torque pattern to the tee.
<small>[ August 20, 2002, 06:37 AM: Message edited by: 2000 Camaro SS ]</small>
When the presser plate is installed dirty it will grab and let go and grab and so on. This is the chatter or if the plate is warped the same happens. When the install is done keep your hand clean and the tools also. Be **** about this. Make sure you follow the torque pattern to the tee.
<small>[ August 20, 2002, 06:37 AM: Message edited by: 2000 Camaro SS ]</small>
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If he is talking about the grabby-jerking feeling, most good clutches will do this. I have found that my SPEC stage 3 carbon and my Ram 6130 both do it. Alsi it depends on the compound of the clutch disk. The kevlar SPECS don't chatter but don't hold as well as the carbons either. I have ridden in stock ZO6s and they were a bit more jerky then my original clutch in my 99 SS(non LS6-clutch). These aftermarket Street/strip or strip clutches aren't really designed to be slipped. My Spec and Ram will slip a bit but then become jerky. The only way to overcome this is to apply more throttle. The way I drive is as soon as the car makes its first impression to jerk I let out the clutch and apply a bit of throttle and thats it, leaves fine. takes some getting used to, but if I were you I would look into a LS6 or Ram 6130 VDS system.
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2000 ss I don't believe your post!!! Most of these high performance clutches chatter when you let them out at lower rpm and I know my installation was perfect..torqued exactly as specified and everything was cleaned with brake cleaner,etc.Installed by professional drag racer/mechanic with over twenty years experience.The clutch formulation will affect how streetable it is.organics don't chatter very much.
Thats why they use organic formulations mostly for stock power levels and stock clutches.I have heard of some chattering with most of the clutches out there,cartech,ram.The quietest seem to be the mcleod organic/kevlar and the zo6.And having 3.73 or 4.10 gears will help some also as you won't need to rev so high to get the car moving.I know that getting oil on any clutch disc
will cause chatter and having the bolts tightened properly and the clutch aligned is also important as is not having a warped flywheel.But most high performance type clutches will chatter more.
Thats why they use organic formulations mostly for stock power levels and stock clutches.I have heard of some chattering with most of the clutches out there,cartech,ram.The quietest seem to be the mcleod organic/kevlar and the zo6.And having 3.73 or 4.10 gears will help some also as you won't need to rev so high to get the car moving.I know that getting oil on any clutch disc
will cause chatter and having the bolts tightened properly and the clutch aligned is also important as is not having a warped flywheel.But most high performance type clutches will chatter more.
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I get very, very occasional chatter with my Cartek, but it is absolutely liveable, driveable, and streetable. I drive the car daily (at least this month <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ), and 99% of the time I don't even notice any chatter at all. The "organic" stock clutch in my 79Z chatters more than the Cartek ever has.
And I installed it myself. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Had the flywheel resurfaced, and I had control of all the installation so I know it was done right. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Oh, and I have 4.10's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-Andrew
And I installed it myself. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Had the flywheel resurfaced, and I had control of all the installation so I know it was done right. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Oh, and I have 4.10's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-Andrew
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thanks for the replies,
When i installed the clutch last year, we did get some oil/grease on the flywheel, and possibly a very small amount on the disc, they have been soaked in brake cleaner several times before i installed them, and I did the 3-pass torque thing when the flywheel and pressure plate wehre installed.
it didnt chatter for the first 1000 miles or so, then it started. I think we may have had too much grease on the input shaft of the trans, which may have flung up onto the disc, but I dont know.
I need to find something soon, I cant be without racing my car!
any other experiences with clutch chatter?
When i installed the clutch last year, we did get some oil/grease on the flywheel, and possibly a very small amount on the disc, they have been soaked in brake cleaner several times before i installed them, and I did the 3-pass torque thing when the flywheel and pressure plate wehre installed.
it didnt chatter for the first 1000 miles or so, then it started. I think we may have had too much grease on the input shaft of the trans, which may have flung up onto the disc, but I dont know.
I need to find something soon, I cant be without racing my car!
any other experiences with clutch chatter?
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What is chatter? It is a function of the coefficient of friction of the disc material. The higher the Cf of the material, the more aggressive the engagement. For example, a stock disc has organic material, lower Cf, and engages fairly smoothly. Metallics, on the other hand, have a higher Cf and tend to engage more aggressively. The other factors mentioned in this thread such as oil on the disc and rear gearing can also have drastic effects.
Flywheel grinding is another area that is often overlooked. If the flywheel is not ground parallel to the crank flange, it can run out and engage the disc causing chatter.
Finally, engine and transmission mounts. Broken engine mounts will cause severe chatter, and solid or urethane mounts tend to amplify the situation.
Flywheel grinding is another area that is often overlooked. If the flywheel is not ground parallel to the crank flange, it can run out and engage the disc causing chatter.
Finally, engine and transmission mounts. Broken engine mounts will cause severe chatter, and solid or urethane mounts tend to amplify the situation.
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Well, I have the McLeod Twin Disk and there is absolutely no chatter with my 3.42s. It is super driveable at low speeds and if you let the clutch out fast it grabs like a mother <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
But, it is expensive and from what I have read has a tendency to destroy driveline parts due to forces it produces when it engages hard. I know that McLeod has tweaked this clutch and it doesn't have the immense force it once had which helps save the driveline.
It shifts awesome at all rpms including over 6600 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Mike
But, it is expensive and from what I have read has a tendency to destroy driveline parts due to forces it produces when it engages hard. I know that McLeod has tweaked this clutch and it doesn't have the immense force it once had which helps save the driveline.
It shifts awesome at all rpms including over 6600 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Mike
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well, i ordered the z06 clutch today, cant beat the deal, and i know it wont chatter, comes with a new flywheel too.
I'm giving it a chance, my original ls1 clutch lasted 27k, thats almost twice the hays life, and it didnt chatter, hopefully the install takes less than 8 hours in my driveway (took 14 first time around- complications...)
thanks for all the input!
I'm giving it a chance, my original ls1 clutch lasted 27k, thats almost twice the hays life, and it didnt chatter, hopefully the install takes less than 8 hours in my driveway (took 14 first time around- complications...)
thanks for all the input!
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Youll love the Z06, for your application it is perfect. You made the right choice IMO ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />