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T56 rebuild: do I need the 1/2 outer cones?

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Old 04-23-2007, 05:59 AM
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Default T56 rebuild: do I need the 1/2 outer cones?

As in the title: do I need the 1/2 outer cones for a T56 rebuilt?

Look at the pic to see what I have...

Thanks - Stefano
Attached Thumbnails T56 rebuild: do I need the 1/2 outer cones?-synchro.jpg  
Old 04-23-2007, 08:00 AM
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Anything with that fiction material should be replaced with any rebuild imo.
Old 04-23-2007, 08:45 AM
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"fiction material"?
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean...
If you mean friction material :do the 1/2 outer cones have it? I saw a picture showing them with a shiny surface inside of the cones
Old 04-23-2007, 12:25 PM
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The 1/2 has an outer cone and an inner cone( since it is a tri-cone set) that have ground surfaces. I would replace the "set" . You may be able to get by without the cones if the cones are in good condition. This assumes you can tell what condition they are in.Your picture shows only the blocker rings( all in the box). The 3/4 , Reverse,& 5/6 cones are part of the gears and unless they show heat staining, should be ok to re-use. It is equally important that you check the condition of the clutching teeth on the synchro sleeves and the gears. Heavy blunting of these teeth can affect shifting & gear engagement more than the blocker rings.This may be a more important reason to get new gears.
Old 04-23-2007, 12:42 PM
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This is the rebuilt kit as I received it. I'm asking if I need more parts because I know that other companies include the 1/2 outer rings.
As I asked my supplier they told me that those rings are normally OK and it's unusual to replace them....
But you have reason: maybe there are more parts to replace than the friction parts.
Unfortunately I'll discover it then, when the T56 will be apart
Old 04-24-2007, 07:27 AM
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Yep, that's usually the case. If you have been shifting with worn out synchros for awhile and clash-shifting, there may be more parts to buy( the ones with clutch teeth).
Old 04-24-2007, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Yep, that's usually the case. If you have been shifting with worn out synchros for awhile and clash-shifting, there may be more parts to buy( the ones with clutch teeth).
Can you describe clash shifting?

Right now it shifts in 2 steps: goes out of a gear, apply a little force during 1/2 second and after this delay the tranny allows the gear to engage.
I assume that the delay is the time that the synchro's need to adjust the gear speeds... If I force it it doesn't shift faster and eventually starts to grind. So I always give it a little time.

The warmer the tranny, the faster I can shift.
Old 04-24-2007, 09:21 AM
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Clash- shifting produces a grinding sound. That grinding sound is the blunting of the clutch teeth. If you have to shift slowly , but can complete the shift wiyhout the grinding, you may just need the new friction components( the one in your picture).
Old 04-24-2007, 11:23 AM
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Yes, I can shift completely and without grinding.
Just slow...



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