Got the New one in, and the pedal is ALOT better, right in the middle exactly like stock and it stays in the same place (not like joes) it has a little chatter and is a little grabby but its is new, and is it way better than the first one, tomorrow i will drive it more to get a better idea on how it will be day to day, but so far it seem to be OK

 

Wow, nice. My pedal is still well on the high side . Oh well, at least it is better than it was!
Joe

 

The clutch is out
Is this Normal wear for 20 Miles?
I remeasured the air gap between the TOB and PP, I have NO air gap to negative air gap no wonder the clutch is sliping!
Hmmm....... I am off by about a 1/4" also?? weird?? Sounds like a common problem!
Jeremy at spec you have a PM. Please reply!!

 

I have a feeling that Spec will be hearing more of this, Joe, they fixed mine by machining the mounting area of the flywheel about a 1/4" to reduce the stack height

 

So wait, where lol? The back side of the flywheel where it meets the crank? That isn't thick enough I'd think. Or did they just step the flywheel and cut the area where the pressure plate bolts up?

 

yeah its where the pressure plate mounts lol, sorry! but it worked great for fixing the pedal engagement height

 

I thought about that and asked how much would need to come off to get 1/4" on the fingers and they said it could not be done and would not tell me how much needed to come off that since to take 1/4" off the fingers (it's a lever, so it's not a 1:1 ratio obviously). Same thing as adding a thicker disk, so it will work just fine. Do you know exactly how much they took off? It can't be anywhere near 1/4", it has to be maybe .040 or so to get the fingers down 1/4" like on mine. That or take a full 1/4" off the entire face of the flywheel, but you'd be risking it then.
Joe

 

I measured my old clutch from back of flywheel to the clutch fingers it measured about 3-1/8" the spec measuring the same way measures about 3-7/16" so about a 1/4 to 5/16" diferance!! Not good!! I guess I will be calling spec tommarow. Do you think they should give me a new one seeing as this one is all hot spoted now???

 

I think if you took 1/4" off the flywheel you would still be risking clutch slipping, Like mine!

 

I diddnt measure anything or take a freakin pic like a dumbass, sorry fellas, all the did was dishout the area that the PP assy. sets in.

 

Like I said- that or machining down the "legs" on the pressure plate were my two thoughts originally, but they would not tell me the ratio of the fingers so I could figure out how much to machine. I'd guess that .040 would be fine after what they did with my lower disk.

 

Nope, because it would move the whole flywheel/pressure plate 1/4" away from the slave. However, in my case as I'm sure is the same for everyone else with this problem- the clutch will not have much clamp the way it is now for you (and would remain the same if the whole flywheel was machined) and as it wears, it will slip early due to this. When I initially installed my clutch, I had ~.060 gap between the flywheel and pressure plate legs before tightening down the plate- that means, I was only getting .060 worth of clamping pressure. Just didn't seem right, so I asked them and it was supposed to be .100 if I remember right. That's where the thicker disk or the stepped flywheel will help.
Joe

 

Yup, I told Spec from the start there would be more and was told "we didn't rush these to market, they are well tested- it is probably just your slave is machined differently than the others- could be too tall" .

Like I have said before though, as long as you know what you are talking about and not just blindly blaming the clutch, Jeremy is cool as hell to talk to and work with and I do appreciate him taking care of this for me. It is just the initial "nope, it's not the clutch, it's your car" for 5 trans removals in almost as many months before it was finally proven to be the clutch that pissed me the hell off.
Joe

 

They basicly made a machined "dish" where the pressure plate sits on the Flywheel, so the WHOLE thing was not machined, but i am guessing you knew that, but as you said above, do you think it will still slip pre-maturely?

5 trans removals SUX! i did it 3 times on a lift with a trans jack and i was pissed...5 in the driveway= my *** pain x 11ty billion!

 

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193348

I started a thread over at ls1gto as well, feel free to chime in over there to, joe!

 

For those of you who sent their clutch in to spec to get this problem fixed how long did it take them to fix it and get it back to you??? Did they pay for shipping??? Thanks for the info, I need to get the car back together so I can break in the clutch and get it dyno tuned, ASAP

 

I don't think you'll have problems because, like using a thicker disk like they did with mine, you are increasing the clamping distance I guess you could call it- the distance between where it sits unbolted and how far it pulls in when tightened down. If you just machined the whole flywheel 1/4", you would take care of the problem with the TOB pushing on the pressure plate, but you still have less clamping and less room for wear before it starts to slip. Hope this makes sense, hard to describe.

Yeah, removing it 5 times for a problem I knew was there with the first install SUCKED- especially since I had double hernia surgery a little while back and it hurts like hell pushing that thing up into place and then for a week after each time . I did it with no trans jack, but I did have the car about 2 1/2' up, so it wasn't too bad. Hardest part was pulling that heavy *** trans under the car and positioning it up onto my chest. Once I had it on me, I could bench press it in, but it was still heavy and awkward. It makes it worse because of how the APS downpipes are- I'd have to pick the tail end up and back over the downpipe outlets then push the front end up and then slide it forward while fighting with the tail getting caught on the downpipe flanges and the shifter hitting the floor lol. I'd have to use my knee to hold it up while adjusting my grip and such. Hurts just thinking about it lol.

Really pisses me off that they don't reimburse labor. I was going to ask my lawyer what he felt about that, but let it go since I figured **** happens. Now that there are others popping up with the same problem, I wonder if something can be done for labor reimbursement.
Joe

 

They only had mine a couple days, so it wasn't bad. They wanted me to pay shipping there and they'd pay to ship it back, but I told them no way am I paying $50-$60 to ship a clutch that they screwed up and they finally agreed to pay both ways.
Joe

 

so will they just fix it or replace it??

 

They sent me a whole new setup, with the understanding that i have to send the old one back...